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 |  X in lifter galley -- bear, 01/23/2001
i HAVE AN FE 4.05 BORE BLOCK WITH AN X CAST INTO THE BLOCK . DOES THIS MEAN IT IS A HIGH NICKLE BLOCK.
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|  | That's what I've heard -- KarlJay, 01/23/2001
You can also tell by the color of the metal, I understand it looks like it has more of a shine or goldish color to it. I can't say for sure because I've never been so lucky as to have one! Don't waste it!
By the way, does it have the 501 on the front or the standard 352, it could be a heavy duty truck engine, does it have extra webs like the CJ? |
|  | X on left rear -- Dale, 01/24/2001
My 2 mirror 105's have a big "X" on the block, on the driver's side underneath the #8 spark plug. Nothing in the lifter gallery. Both have the extra webbing. |
|  | RE: X in lifter galley -- Jim D, 01/24/2001
What's the significance of the high nickel content block?
i.e. better for what reasons? |
| How much power and other questions -- ANT, 01/21/2001
I have a 390 bored .060" (402c.i.d.)
I have 10:1 compression with trw pistons. A crane cam 222/234 duration at .050 with 278/290 advertised and 548/580 lift. I am using Rhoads variable duration hydraulic lifter. I have 1.76 ratio aluminum roller rockers. performer rpm intake and edelbrock 750 manual choke carb. I have 2 3/4 primaries and 3 inch collecter headers followed by 2 1/4 switching to 2 1/2 pipe. without mufflers or cats.
Currently I have stock 390 heads with stainless steel 3 angle valve job heads, but planning to switch to edelbrock soon.
I have an msd probillet distributer and digital 6 ignition and msd super conducter wires and accel super coil.
The mains and heads are studded with arp studs. I have moly rings and chrome moly pushrods . I have standard sized oilpan with windage tray. I have a high volume oil pump with new but original style drive shaft( I know that should be changed).
How much power do you think I should be making?
How much with the edelbrock heads?
Would 250 hp shot of nitrous be ok?
I also have a timing problem I am running 10 degress initial advance at 900 rpm(with more initial advance it seems to be a lot weaker) with the 2 blue springs and blue advance stop bushing on my msd distributer. this brings in an extra 21 degress of advance at 2900 rpm.
When I hit 5500 rpm I start to detonate like crazy.
What do you think my initial and final advance should be?
and with edel. aluminum heads?
I use 93 octane pump gas.
Another thing my carb is not modified at all since it came from edelbrock(other than idle mixture and speed)
Do you think it needs to be re jetted?
Any suggestions ?
any help greatly appreciated!!!
thank you
Anthony |
| | RE: How much power and other questions -- Adam Deermann, 01/22/2001
Sound almost like my setup. Don't know how much, but according to desktop dyno around 400 hp at 5000 rpm.The timing troubles might be that your reading the wrong timing. The crankpulley has a habbit of turning witin itself, since it is not a solid piece. It turns round the rubber ring. Determine the excact tdc yourself again, and start timing from there. |
| |  | RE: How much power and other questions -- Bill Hartman, 01/24/2001
I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me the horsepower of the 460 cu. in. engine used in the 1972 Lincoln. I am installing one in my Cobra replica, and I have been unable to determine what the standard factory horsepower rating is. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please e-mail me at:
"billhartman@hotmail.com"
Thanks in advance for your assistance. |
| | RE: How much power and other questions -- gerry, 01/22/2001
First off, Anthony, you shouldn't be running into pre-ignition with only 31degrees total advance. I suspect the timing you are reading off the balancer is false. It is common for the outer ring to slip and give you an incorrect reading. Unless you can verify timing, it is a better situation to time the engine with a vacuum gauge and road testing, then use the balancer as a baseline reference. But I don't think timing is your problem. Ten to 12 degrees initial with only 21 centrifugal even with your quicker advance rate isn't getting you anywhere near danger. Without the vacuum advance and the iron heads, you could easily use 12initial. With aluminum heads, you can go 14-16 initial. Your detonation may be and is most likely a result of your carb going lean on top. The only way to know for sure without thermocouples is to start working the jets and rods to try to cure the detonation. I would suspect that your problem will be in either fuel delivery (weak pump or poor lines) or in the carb itself. That Crane HMV-278-2NC cam is a very nice performer in the FE, with the wide LSA it should easily carry you to 6K rpm...making power all the way. The mid-range is a little softer than the tighter cams, but I've found it to be a better all around performer.
I really hate to to the guestimate on how much power...but I'll go out on a limb here and say that with a very good tuneup (fix your detonation problem), you should easily be nudging the 400 hp level at the flywheel level. I would look into getting your exhaust up to the 2.5" level all the way through though. Your system will only flow to the level of its smallest restriction. In your case, you could have 3" pipes running out the back, but if you start at 2", then that is the capacity that the system will flow. You should easily surpass the 400 hp level with the Edelbrock RPM heads.
I can't offer an opinion on your squeeze question. |
| | RE: How much power and other questions -- ANT, 01/27/2001
Ok should you set your initial timing according to what gives you the most vacuum?
On my timing light it says 28 degress advance and I'm making about 19" of vacuum. At 12 degrees it make only 17 and idles rough.
I also have an msd ignition and combined with a possible slipped outer ring on my dampener, Thats probably causeg the false timing reading, right? |
| rough running 390 -- schu, 01/21/2001
My 390 has been running rough lately. It doesn't idle very smooth and it seems very cold blooded. I have run out of ideas on what it could be so maybe one of you has some suggestions on stuff I can look at.
Here is the engine:
1976 390 in a F-150
Stock truck 4bbl intake
Stock exhaust manifold
Stock distributor
Stock heads (crane springs)
Cam is crane HMV-272-2 (216/228 @ .050)
Cam timing is set straight up
8k miles on rebuild
Holley 4160 vacuum secondary carb, 600 cfm
Here are some things I noticed or have tried:
12" of manifold vacuum when set to 10 degrees initial timing
15" of manifold vacuum when set to 25 degrees initial timing
Replaced all of the hoses and checked for vacuum leaks, non found
Some of the plugs are clean and light tan and others some seem to be black
Choke is working correctly (electric)
Truck seems to be getting hotter than normal, but not quite overheating
When I finished rebuilding the motor I was getting 20" of manifold vacuum and it ran great, so I know it isn't the cam that is causing the low manifold vacuum. Is it possible that my intake manifold is leaking?
Thanks
schu
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| | It could be a number of things !!! -- mcj67, 01/24/2001
Schu, Yes your intake manifold could be leaking, A good way to check it is to use spray type carb cleaner and after the engine warms up carefully spray a light amount around the ajoining surfaces of the intake manifold, carburator, vacume line connections, if there is a leak you will notice a change in idle speed.(be carefull around the plug wires don't start a fire) Does the vacume guage hold a constant reading durning idle or does it jump back and forth-( bad valves will make it jump).Have you done a compression test to see whats up, do you have excessive crankcase ventilation? If your rings did not seat properly during brake in,this could also cause a drop in vacume. Check your crankshaft to camshaft timeing, running hot and a loss of vacume may mean you could have jumped time.You stated there is only 8,000 miles since rebuild, but it still could have jumped time, also the dowel that positions the camshaft gear on the camshaft could have sheared, its rare but not impossible. Whats the exhaust look like? Does it smell like it is running rich? Is there a heavy black residue in side the end of the tail pipe? A really over rich fuel mixture can washout the oil in the cylinders causeing the rings to prematurely wear out
Do you have vacume assisted power brakes, the booster diaphragm could be split. You metioned some spark plugs were black, are you using a lot of oil? broken rings will cause a loss of vacume, compression, and cause oil comsumpsion. Did you replace or check the valve gides? Does it smoke a little when it is first started? Bad valve gides will cause some oil consumption, also the valves will not seat properly some times and cause a loss of vacume and compression. well maybe this will help you Good luck Mike Jones |
| | | RE: It could be a number of things !!! -- schu, 01/24/2001
Mike,
Here are the answers to your questions:
I sprayed starting fluid around the base of the carb after checking and replaceing the cap/rotor/plug wires and was unable to find a vacuum leak.
The vacuum gauge does not jump around at all.
I have done a compression test on 5 and 6 and got 125/135. Should I check some other cylinders? Is that to low?
How do I check for excessive crank case ventilation?
Jumping time would explain a couple of things, but I used a double roller timing chain set so I wouldn't think it is a possibility, should I check my valve timing anyway?
I smells rich at idle, but seems just right on the road. I checked my plugs every day for a while after I rejetted the carb and they looked great. The only change I have made since then is more fuel/air at idle so that my idle smoothed out.
I blocked off the vacuum brakes and rechecked my vacuum, no change.
I am not using any oil at all.
The valve guides where new when I had the heads rebuilt.
It doesn't smoke when started.
Over all I think that the heads are fine, it sounds like I might have some ring issues. Any way other than a compression test to check them?
thanks
schu
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| | | | A couple more things -- mcj67, 01/24/2001
Hello Schu, Do you have a book called How to rebuild your big block Ford, by Steve Christ? This is a very good book on FE engines, and it is highly recomended by many forum regulars.
You said you checked the carb surfaces with carb. cleaner, how about the intake manifold surfaces?
Also I would check the compression on all the cylinders.
(this is how it is done in Steves book )
Compression testing should be done with engine warm to give the most-accurate indication of engine condition. Run engine to bring it up to operating temperature then remove all the spark plugs, next disable the ignition system by removing the points-to-coil lead. next block the throttle wide open, and make sure the choke is open. Install the tester in number one sparkplug hole. Crank the engine over at least three times and record the highest reading. Check the rest of the cylinders the same way and compare the readings. The lowest reading should be at least 75%of the highest.
Vacume testing (also from Steves book )
First test should be done with the engine running. Hook the vacume gage to a fitting on the intake manifold and start enging. At idle the reading should be about 16"-18", (Hg) inches. Altitude, ignition timing, and cam design all can affect manifold vacume. It will be less at high altitudes and on engines with a high-overlap-performance-camshaft. A reading of 15" Hg or less indicates either incorrect ignition timing or a worn engine. Set the timing and recheck vacume. If the needle floats-moves slowly back and forth-the mixture is probably over-rich. Turn the idle-mixture screws in or increase engine speed to 2,000-2,500 rpm to see if this corrects the problem. If the reading is low 12" Hg or less the engine may have a blown head gasket or an air leak. Next, accelerate the engine rapidly and then release the throttle. When the engine is accelerating,the reading should drop but remain steady. If the reading fluctuates, the valve springs may be weak. When you release the throttle, the reading should jump to about 5"Hg above the reading at idle and then settleback to the original idle reading. If the reading does not go that high, the pistons and rings are not sealing well.
If you get a normal reading that soon drops back to zero when you first start the engine, suspect a plugged exhaust system.
( cranking vacume test)
With a helping hand or a remote starter switch crank the engine over. The vacume gage needle should remain fairly steady while the engine is being cranked. If the needle fluctuates, one of the cylinders is not doing its share.The cause of this could be, incorrect valve adjustment, a worn camshaft lobe,collapsed lifter, a leaky valve,worn cylinder bore or piston rings, a hole in the piston or a leaky head gasket.
If your car has a tach or you have one you can hook up you can do a power balance test,(good test to locate a problem cylinder)
Idle engine at 1,000 rpm, pull the plug wire off one cylinder and allow engine rpm to stabilize, then note the rpm drop, reinstall plug wire. Do the same to all eight cylinders. The ones with the most drop in rpm are the stronger cylinders, and the ones with the least drop in rpm are the weakest cylinders.
( Induced Firing )
If rpm rises when one cylinder is disabled that plug wire may be connected to the wrong sparkplug. If wiring is correct, the sparkplug was probably being fired by induced current.
Induced Current or Inductance occurs when the magnetic field around one wire induces a current in an adjacent wire. This causes two sparkplugs to fire simultameously. In most cases this causes no problems, because there is insufficient air fuel mixture to burn in the other cylinder. Problems arise when the firing is induced in a cylinder where there is enough compressed air-fuel mixture to burn. The two wires usually involved where this becomes a problem are #7 and #8. These cylinders normally fire in order, #7followed by #8. If the two wires are running close to one another, #8 cylinder will fire 90 degrees too soon. This is hard on the engine as it tries to turn the crankshaft backwards. for this reason be sure #7 and #8 sparkplug wires don't run next to each other for any distance..
Again this is a good book for trouble shooting and rebuilding
Good Luck Mike Jones |
| | | | | RE: A couple more things -- schu, 01/26/2001
Mike,
I have the Steve Christ book, I just didn't think to look there because it is mostly rebuilding info.
Anway, I checked the compression again and found 145/155 in the two cylinders I checked. This seems very low to me for 8k miles. I had a good machine shop build the heads so I don't know what could be wrong.
The vacuum guage vibrates a little but only 1/2" at 600 rpm so I don't think that is serious.
I am thinking about pulling a head. Would that help?
schu
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| | | | | | Pulling head will give you some insite -- mcj67, 01/26/2001
Hello Schu, Did you try squirting a little oil into #5 & #6 sparkplug holes and rechecking the compression, this will tell you if the rings are the problem( make sure the throttle and choke are wide open when checking the compression) I am sure that you have checked the valve adjustment, do you have adjustable rockers ,even with hyd. system it may have tightend up some since you built the engine, or it could be some bad lifters, Steves book tells how to check all that stuff. You may have gotten hold of a couple of the wrong lenth push rods,if the valve lash is just a little to tight this would cause low compression.(the valves don't quite close all the way) As for the head, since it has not been that long ago that you rebuilt the engine it should not be all that hard to pull it ( no locked up exhaust bolts ect.) and if you don't mind putting in the time and effort,I would pull it. At the very least it would rule out certian things. Since the two cylinders that are reading low are next to each other #5 & #6 you could have a blown head gasket between these two cylinders, and it does not take long for a leak in this area to start removing material from the head, and worse yet the block. This would also give you a chance to check the cylinder bore for scraches, measure the bore to see if it has washed out, and check out the valves, seats, gides, and the springs. If you do pull it let me know what you find. Have you been able to determin if the black residue on #5 & #6 spark plugs is oil or fuel? I found the reply you got on the FE forum about the power valve in the carb. interesting, I can see where it would make a car run poorly and cause certian sparkplugs to soot up . But since you have low compression I think there is more to it. Keep us informed, you will get it sooner or later. Good Luck Mike Jones |
| | RE: rough running 390 -- RC Moser, 01/24/2001
I think you need to ellimuate the vacuum sources one at a time. (example dissconnect and plug the brake vacuum booster, then any other vacuum sources one at a time and see if it makes any differents). Then I,d do a similated leak down test on the low cylinders. (do this by removing the valve stem from you compression test hose and put the cylinder in question at TDC, Now apply shop air at about 80 PSI or so. Now you can listen at the exhaust valve for hissing air indicating the exhaust valve is leaking, Now listen at the carb. venturi for any hissing air indicating that the intake valve is leaking. and last listen at the oil filler port for hissing indicating the rings are leaking. (Note if you don't have the engine at TDC one of the valves will be held open give you a false reading also a rubber hose or doctor stenscope will magifiy the sound to hear if better. Also, some air will leak pass the rings so a minute amount of air from the oil filler port might be normal.)) Then I double check the points ( contacts for pitting) dwell. And after effectively elimuating all systems I'd suspect the carb. You never mentioned if you have adjustable valve train or standard non-adjustable FE type. You can test your PCV valve by removing it and putting you thumb over the end or by shaking it and seeing if it rattles. Also check all the vacuum hoses on the under sides for cracks including the carcoal cannister and hoses. Hope this gives you some more things to check. |
| | | RE: rough running 390 -- schu, 01/26/2001
The valve train is non-adjustable.
I replaced the cap/rotor/plugs/wires but that didn't help. The distributar is a duraspark so I don't have points.
I'll replace the carb and gaskets with a spare this weekend and see if that helps.
Any other ideas?
schu |
| | | | RE: rough running 390 -- RC Moser, 01/26/2001
Coil or module? Take it to autozone and have it tested. |
| 67 shelby ignition pinging -- robbie, 01/21/2001
OK here is the info your all gonna want to ,if your gonna try to help,,the engine is the original engine in my GT 500 it is a .030 over 428PI ,stock heads with .020 shaved off them minor polishing,block has been decked .020(to square it),the cam has hydraulic lifters 560 lift 235(@.050)duration,108 lobe centers,valves 208's and 162's,it has JE flat top pistons,fresh Carb Shop rebuild,restoration and calibration on the 2x4's(BJ-BK)stock exhaust manifolds that are polished with 2.5 inch exhaust dynaflow mufflers,
the carbs are adjusted fat at idle and the advance is 36 total at 2800 RPM ,running 92 octain fuel,it has 3:50 gears and close ratio 4 spd and when you accerate hard it pings horrible is there a fix or adjustment I've missed,I hate to abuse it by pinging the engine with detonation any help out there,,Other than super high octain fuel??? |
| | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- robbie, 01/21/2001
for got to mention the ignition is pertronix as well |
| | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- BOB HOPKINS, 01/23/2001
I think you have too much compression ratio, there is a site
www.prestage.com/carmath/cale_gears.asp
plug in your parts cc ,I'le bet your over11.1. my 428" 0.030 over with 72cc heads figures out to over10.1, and yoursare shaved 0.020 . Find a set with large 80cc chambers pay somebody to carve yours out ,or 100+ octane race gas. |
| | | retard timing until it quits... -- Troy, 01/23/2001
pinging. You can run high compression motors, they just need the timing backed off. It will hurt power some, but longevity will be the benefit. Good luck. |
| | | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- BOB HOPKINS, 01/24/2001
Part # you can also find thicker head gaskets Gessfords Cobra Parts has copper head gaskets in thickness range up to 0.093 , the fepro gackets are about 0.041 thiss would lower the compresion ratio to live on pump premium,and be cheaper than modifing heads |
| | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- Morgan, 01/23/2001
I also have a 67 Shelby GT-500 (03217). When I bought the GT it pinged also. I recurved the distributor, installed pertronix iginition and backed off the total timing just a hair. The pinging went away. |
| | | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- robbie, 01/23/2001
I thought of the same thing after posting that I have the dist advance curve to tight (it comes in full by 2500) and that is too soon for daily drivability I'm in the process of recurving and backing the timing up a tad,will let you know ,,thanks for the help
robbie 67#1590 |
| | | | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- Mike, 01/23/2001
I have a 67 mustang with a 390. I blew two sets of head gaskets until I figured out that somebody had put in a replacement distributor... for a 73 truck. I had the disributor recurved, The pinging is at a minimum now. Still need to find a good source for 99 octane though... |
| | | | | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- salid, 01/24/2001
You said you shaved the block and the heads, did you shave the intake too? See Christs FE book for details on whether you should also shave the intake. Page 75 talks about milling the block. Page 101 talks about milling the heads. Page 102 has a table discribing milling amountsfor the intake sides and bottom based on amount milled from heads. Having said this, I will tell you that after milling the heads (on my 68 Shelby) .010 and installing a PI intake I developed a noticable ping on hard acceleration after about 1500 mile on the rebuild. It also had a rough idle and low vacuum. My problem turned out to be a leak between the intake and the head. This was allowing oil to be pulled into 4 cylinders. This drasticly reduces the octane resulting in ping. This condition can be confirmed by noticeable oil consumption and on disassembly, the presence of oil into the intake runner to the valve. I replaced my gaskets with the blue silicone embossed FelPro gaskets and the problem went away. Alluminum intakes seem to be particularly prone to this problem since they expand at a different rate than iron. If this problem recurrs, I will mill my intake. |
| | | | | | RE: 67 shelby ignition pinging -- robbie, 01/28/2001
Hey I'm goin now,,I recurved the dist and backed the timing up to 34 deg total no pinging now ,,As to Salid's note on milling ,Yes I had to take .025 off the sides of the intake to make the whole show work,no oil consumption and great performace so I'd say it's fixed ,,thanks to all who helped,,
Robbie 67#1590 |
| Pertronix ignition / Leak free exhaust -- Rob, 01/21/2001
Would upgrading the original 390 distributor with a Pertronix unit
be a worthwhile endeavor ?
How much does a unit actually cost if bought from a dealer ? Have seen
them on the Net ranging from $45.00 to $69.00 .
Last year had nothing but grief with leaky exhaust manifolds (1963 390) . Took it all apart & now have had the exhaust manifolds planed & also took the heads off & had the exhaust flanges planed . Need some advice on assembley / or is it a trial & error sort of thing ? here are the 5 suggestions I have had .
1 - No gaskets at all .
2 - The Felpro soft gaskets .
3 - The Felpro metal gaskets (with plug wire Guard)
4 - # 2 & # 3 together
5 - Have bought a set of copper gaskets (1/16" thick) . The instructions say assemble with Permatex Ultra Black & no leaks are Gauranteed. This is the one I am presently leaning towards .
Thanks
|
| | RE: Pertronix ignition / Leak free exhaust -- Al, 01/21/2001
The Peritronix is a very worth while endevor. I have the Ignitor unit and the Flame Thrower coil on my '65 mustang and my '69 F100 Ranger and it is a great setup that is very easy to install. I actually got better gas milege ( about 4 more MPG than with points) , smother starts, more power, and a higher redline like they said I would. As i understand its easy to get the wrong manifolds for FE engines. Aftermarcket headers are real bad.They bolt up but persist in leaking. Id go with #5 and hope for the best. |
| | RE: Pertronix ignition / Leak free exhaust -- Steve, 01/22/2001
Hi
I have nothing but great things about the Pertronix system, but I am responding to your header leak issue.
I had a 73 Mustang with a 351C (i know, way different), but I always had exhaust leak problems.
I used 2 of the Felpro soft gaskets and NEVER had a problem again. I did have to retighten them every couple of months, but you have to do that with most headers anyway.
It was a cheap fix !!
Good Luck
Steve |
| | RE: Pertronix ignition / Leak free exhaust -- KarlJay, 01/23/2001
No doubt on the pertronix and the coil is a good idea as well. Check if you have the balast resistor or resistor wire (info included with instructions)
Exhaust leak: I bought a felpro gasket and it leaked real bad, I replaced it with one for headers and it was a complete misfit. I had to cut the holes to get it to line up properly. Check the gasket for proper alinement. make sure the port has material covering at EVERY edge! Cut the bolt holes if you need to. I used UltraCopper and it's working so far, retorque after a few days. |
| | RE: Pertronix ignition / Leak free exhaust -- Morgan, 01/23/2001
Pertronix is one of the best upgrades i have made on my 67 GT-500. Much easier to start and smoother at idle.
If everything is flat you should not need any gaskets. |
| 390 Oiling -- J. Robb, 01/21/2001
I have been reading about the FE oiling modifications, and have a few questions. I understand there are 3 small modifications, 1 being drilling the passage to the oil filter out to 7/16 and getting the larger filter adaptor (if you don't have it), 2 is drilling out a restriction from one of the pipe plugs in the back of the block to get more oil to the rear main, and 3 is putting a restriction under the rocker stand feed hole.
I will do #1 and #3 for sure, but is #2 really necessary? Everyone talks about putting a carburetor jet in the rocker stand feed hole... do you first need to tap out the hole and screw it in, or just set it in there? And what size jet should I use? Or is there something better than the jet? I plan on using a high volume oil pump and a windage tray.
This is a 69 390 "IP".
Also, which FE engines came with sodium valves? Thanks your advice. |
| | RE: 390 Oiling -- Rusty, 01/21/2001
All the oiling mods you mentioned are very helpful. Another area that needs attention is the oil passage where the oil pump bolts on. You can lay the gasket on a see how small the hole is in relation to the hole in the oil pump. This hole needs to be drilled out with a 1/2" bit and radiused with a grinder. As for the restriction in the heads, I tap the hole and use a 1/8"npt pipe plug and drill it out with a 1/16" drill bit. I'm always afraid that I'd accidently drop a jet into the engine during the build. Sodium filled valves were used in HR and MR engines. I've got a piston with a sodium filled exhuast valve head sticking out of it on my shelf that came out of a MR in 1972.
Rusty |
| | RE: 390 Oiling -- KarlJay, 01/23/2001
I thought #2 didn't apply to regular FE blocks and only to side-oilers or something else. Anyway, the #1 is most important and I skipped #3 and went with a 9qt oil pan and windage tray. You didn't mention the main bearing mod. The main bearings don't match up properly and require a small mod to the saddle area for good flow, this is more important than the restrictor. Also, some have said with the stock pan, you should add 1 more quart than factory specs. |
| | | RE: 390 Oiling -- J. Robb, 01/23/2001
According to the book i've read, it says that there is a restriction to the rear main to force more oil to the top end, and this is there on non-HP 390s and 428s, which would include my 390. I'll remove the pipe plug and see what I can see. I have not heard of a rear main modification though, and this book makes no mention of it. I'm interested in hearing what its all about, and hope to soon pick up the "How to Rebuild Your Big Block Ford" book. |
| | | | RE: 390 Oiling -- FE427TP, 01/23/2001
It's not the rear main, it's like the 1 3 and 4th mains (not sure off the top of my head), you'd see it on your old bearings or on the block itself when you pull the old bearings out, there will be a black circle there where the bearing mismatches the oil passage just take a dremel tool or something similar and open that up a little so that oil can flow more freely to the bearing or drill those oil passages to 5/16th inch and match up from there |
| | | | | RE: 390 Oiling -- Will, 01/23/2001
I know this sounds stupid, but why not open up the bearing instead? That way, you're not grinding on the main webbing.
An obvious point would be to avoid scratching the bearing, but with a little care, I doubt that would be a problem.
When I was building my 428, I wrestled with the mismatch issue. I didn't know about this forum, and I didn't know any FE nuts in town. I read some places that said you should grind the block to match. Some said it didn't matter. I started to do it, but changed my mind. |
| | | | | | RE: 390 Oiling -- FE427TP, 01/24/2001
everyone I've ever talked to has said to just grind the block to match the bearings, I did it and there are plenty of hot 428's running with it like that too... |
| | | | | | | RE: 390 Oiling -- Will, 01/24/2001
Perhaps it's too little material to hurt the strength. I just figured it was also too little bearing material to hurt either. |
| | | | | | | | RE: 390 Oiling -- Rusty, 01/24/2001
I align the hole to the bearing on every racing engine I build. The actual grinding is very minimal to line these holes up. The reason I do it is to lessen any restriction I have to the mains mainly becasue I run a loose rod bearing clearance. If you think about it, the oil is going to travel the path of least resistance. If there is much less resistance at the rod bearing, the oil is going to tend to go that way. This could cause problems at high RPMs. Never grind/drill the main bearings.
Rusty |
| fe intake manifold -- monte, 01/21/2001
please help me!! i havea factory ford 2x4 intake manifold and i would like to find out what it it was for and how much it is worth. the casting # is c3ae-9425-j , it is aluminum. thank-you in advance for your help and guidance. monte |
| 428 SCJ oil capacity and solid cam -- Brian T, 01/21/2001
How much did the oil cooler add to th e total oil capacity of the engine? Also I read in an article that the SCJ had a solid lifter camshaft fact or fiction? The article also states that the SCJ had two different crankshafts depending on the weight of the pistons used. Any help would be appreciated. I have a SCJ that I just bought but is in storage until spring. |
| | RE: 428 SCJ oil capacity and solid cam -- Rusty, 01/21/2001
Not sure about the oil capacity, but the SCJ definetely did not come from the factory with a solid lift cam. SCJ's had either (1UA) cranks (early '69) or (B) cranks (69-70). I don't think the gram weights of the pistons were different between different SCJ's, but they were different than regular (CJs).
Rusty |
| fmx -- chris, 01/21/2001
I am installing a 390 in a 69 stang.A friend of mine gave me a fmx tranny.I was told this would work.Your thoughts please. |
| | RE: fmx -- Whole Lotta Tom, 01/21/2001
Thoughts about what? Will it fit? Yes, if it has an FE-style bell housing. Is it a good trans? Yes, if your engine is stock, or not far from it. Generally speaking, it's no dog. Is it a good choice? Sort of. If it works and you are not racing, it should be OK, depending on it's age and condition, of course. But, it is heavy (cast iron case), I assume it's used, and, if you plan to make any sort of power-enhancing improvements on the engine, you will quickly outgrow it.
The FMX is a revision of the old Cruisomatic, which was released by Ford post-war and was used behind FE engines since the FE was introduced in 1958. It is not popular, has little aftermarket support and can not tolerate the sort of torque that the C6 handles easily. My suggestion is that if you need a trans, and this one works, and you have the FE bell housing, use it. But secure a C6 and save to have it rebuilt with an eye to replacing that FMX in future, just in case.
Good luck with it! |
| | RE: fmx -- Steve, 01/22/2001
I had an FMX behind my 73 Mustang. It worked fine until I spent $5,000 hoppin up the motor and then the tranny puked just when it was supposed to go into 2nd gear under full throttle one day, and I winced as I watched the Tach hit 9,000rpm and it puked a Piston out the side of the Block.
If I had a chance I wouldn't go near it. Even a stock 390 is too powerful for this little tranny meant for stock wheezers.
Be safe & go C6, there's plenty of them at the junkyards.
Have fun Zoomin !
Steve Mason
(67 Mustang "S" code (390) Fastback GTA) |
| stroked 390.... -- john h, 01/20/2001
im putting a 428 crank in my 390. which in turn make it a 410. if i use the forged twr pistons that are rated at 10.5:1 the compression will change right. is this pistons compression to high. im trying to reach the 500hp mark. can this be acheaved and still be streetable. ive got edlebrock aluminum heads and crane roller cam and lifters. topped with a tri-power. any help would be apreciated. |
| | RE: stroked 390.... -- FE427TP, 01/20/2001
http://www.rosspistons.com/bbford1.html to get Ross pistons they have them for the 410, or call Ford Power Parts at (562)921-5300 I think they have some in stock too
This is a copy of a post I made that shows what I was thinking of running for my 410:
"I'm curious if anyone feels like running these specs through a computer dyno if they want to.
PART # 33-781-8
GRIND NUMBER: FB 288R-10
ENGINE: FORD 390 - 428
INTAKE EXHAUST
VALVE ADJUSTMENT .020 .020
GROSS VALVE LIFT .633 .633
.015 TAPPET LIFT 288 288
VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE
AT .015 INT 38 BTDC 70 ABDC
EXH 78 BBDC 30 ATDC
THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM INSTALLED
AT 106 INTAKE CENTER LINE
INTAKE EXHAUST
DURATION AT .050 244 244
LOBE LIFT .3666 .3666
LOBE SEPARATION 110
This would be for a 410 4.08 bore (.030 over) 3.98 stroke, Edelbrock heads (flow #'s for #6006 .100-88/64 .200-153/113 .300-195/148 .400-233/171 .500-265/183 .600-270/200) and Performer RPM intake, 10:1 compression with 1.625" primary headers 31 inch long if I remember my header specs right and dual 3" exhaust.
The carb would probably be a 750 Edelbrock or 735-750 Holley
The cam is a solid roller and I'm curious how good it would perform in a 410"
The computer dyno responses I got were:
"
RPM'S HP TQ
2000 175 459
2500 224 471
3000 276 483
3500 338 506
4000 397 520
4500 447 522
5000 487 512
5500 508 485
6000 504 441
6500 483 390
7000 450 338
7500 415 290
8000 364 239
+/- 7%
and...
rpm Hp tq
2000 151 396
3000 240 421
4000 349 458
5000 428 449
6000 437 382
7000 377 283
and...
2K 157/412
3K 252/440
4K 371/487
4.5K 424/495
5K 466/489
5.5K 492/470
6K 498/435
"
I had one person vouch for each of those replies, one person had a 428 with CJ heads and his MPH in the 1/4 said 530hp
I think the Tri-power will hinder the top end as I have heard they run out of gusto at 5500-6000RPM but be good for the bottom end, what crane roller cam are you using? I'm thinking of switching to a hydraulic roller since I will drive it very often. |
| | RE: Crank and flywheel/flexplate, right -- RC Moser, 01/20/2001
I have to ask or it could be a costly oversite? |
| | | RE: Crank and flywheel/flexplate, right -- john h, 01/22/2001
yes i know that the 428 was externaly balanced. as for the roller im looking at the Comp Cams K337818. the K kit includes cam, lifters, matched valve springs, retainers, locks, seals, timing set, and lube, itll run you about $750. http://www.competitioncams.com/catalog/176_177.html#Anchor
With the rollers you'll need to be sure to have hardened rocker shafts
(available from Harland Sharp) and billet stands. The spring pressures are
more than the cast stands can handle.
If you are using the edlebrock heads make sure you go with bare castings and use the springs specified by comp cams. edlebrock said that theirs wont hold up with this type of cam.
> They are not good with a mechanical roller.
> You will need to change the springs to the cam companies recommended
> spring
> set up.
> Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2000 8:31 AM
> To: edelbrock@edelbrock.com
> Subject: Edelbrock 6006 heads
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