All engines are mass produced and the heads for a V engine are not handed. That is to say that they can be fitted to either bank of the block. The water circulates through the block to cool the engine by entering the front of the block, travelling to the back and then going up into the back of the heads. It then returns to the front of the heads before exiting into the intake manifold where the thermostat housing is located. The water uses the passages at the end of the heads to transfer to the manifold but as the same passages are also at the other end of the heads, they need to be blanked off to assure correct coolant circulation. Doing it this way also guarantees that the heads cannot be fitted the wrong way round, but people still manage to mess up the system by fitting the head gaskets the wrong way! HTH
Cheers, Martin.

The heads are made symmetrical with the coolant ports on each end. That way the heads can be used on either bank of the engine. The rear passages are usually blocked off by the manifold while the front passages are tied together. Normal flow is from the water pump into the front of the left and right cylinder banks, pushed towards the rear of the banks and forced up the back of the cylinder heads. Then it turns around and flows forward through the heads and out the front ports into the tee connection of the manifold. This is just a rough description because some of the coolant in the cylinder banks is also forced up the heads through smaller passages in the heads. The head gasket meters the correct flow and is progressive from front to rear. That’s why they are labeled “front”.

n/m

Have you positively identified the cross bolts AND more importantly, the three plugged drill taps on left side of the motor, located above the cross bolts and near the freeze plugs?

HM did receive a shipment of special alloy motors. A previous post indicated some of these were so hard they were jobbered out to independent shops in Dearborn, due to the "undue" wear they put on the milling machines, etc. There's got to be some ID on the block somewhere, keep looking, and while your're at it, how about sending in those cylinder head numbers too!!

P

Does anyone know because Im planning on getting the Edelbrock Fe heads and use a steel shim head gasket with a .015 compressed thickness to raise the compression?

I've heard the only way to go is the .041 thick Felpro gasket. It has to do with the different expansion rates of iron block vs. alum head. Since there is obviously an issue there, I'd either use the Fel-Pro gasket (I think it's the permatorque) or one recommended by Edelbrock.

I wanted to use the steel shim as well, but it's not worth screwing up an engine. (seeping coolant, hydrolock, etc.)

I'm pretty sure you have to use a special type of gasket for this. Beings aluminum takes heat diffrently than cast iron does. Check with Edelbrock to make sure what type is best. Or if someone else knows for sure.

nm

but if you look at the head, intake and valve cover relationship, it's not like the fords at all. I posted once before about this but the person that responded said Ford and Mercury 390s were exactly the same....

just make sure you get a thick enough bead of silicone on so you dont have a nasty leak and not enough time to fix it like me. But at the same time dont go too thick and have it dripping out all over, when I re-install I'm going to use the end gaskets and put a thin layer of blue silicone on each side of them

on my application I used the end gaskets, worked well for me.
I think the main thing you have to worry about is the gaskets slipping while installing the manifold. Perhaps install gaskets first allowing the silicone to cure, therefore getting a more reliable hold on the block, then apply manifold (especially if cast iron).
Don't forget to apply silicone gop where block meets head.

I use G.E. Aluminum/Metal silicon (silver stuff). I put a bead on and let it sit for about 45 mins, and then come back and put another one on, then install the intake. I've never had any leaks. If you use the gaskets, definetly use silcon to glue the gasket to the block, let it cure, and then add another bead of silicon and then the intake. If the heads have been milled a little, but not the intake, you many have trouble squeezing the gasket out.
Rusty

I agree with everyone (except the no gasket advice) This is what I do, works every time.

Glue the end gasket to the block using 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive. Best way is to put a light coat on the block, a light coat on the gasket, then let each dry 2-3 min, then press together. It wont move, period, and still cleans off easy for next time.

But in case it could move..which it wont LOL I then put a small dollap of blue silicone at each end where it meets the intake, and a VERY light skim of silicone over the top of the end gaskets. This gives a little extra seal, but more importantly, you put it together immediately, before the silicone dries, and the silicone works as a lubricant to let the intake slide, not the gasket

Benefits are, no waiting for a HUGE bead of silicone to dry, no silicone pushing in and out of your motor, and end gaskets stay wherever you put them when you put it together.

Bad side, hard to wash the yellow goop of your pointer finger. None other I have ever seen. Keep in mind, you may not be able to start the 4 corner bolts immediately. But if you just snug down the others lightly, the manifold will sit low enough to put tha last 4 in.. Doesnt happen on all, but some, on others all the bolts line up immediately

I started this on milk trucks and busses when I had to put iron intakes WAY DOWN in an engine compartment, needless to say, didnt want to have to do it twice.

n/m

Look at www.428 Cobra Jet.com, click on component identification, click on fans.

no guarantees....


http://pliverman.home.mindspring.com/index.htm

66-70 390 gt 428 cj-scj