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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2493&Reply=2493><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Looking for easy bolt-on power package for my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>"Skid" Marc, <i>08/20/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am looking for some easy power adders for my 67 Z code 390. I had thought about an Edlebrock Performer high rise intake, and a set of decent headers. I already have a new Edle carb that I am happy with. Is this effort worth it without adding high flow cylinder heads as well? My objective is an easy, effective, and inexpensive upgrade. </blockquote> Looking for easy bolt-on power package for my 390 -- "Skid" Marc, 08/20/2000
I am looking for some easy power adders for my 67 Z code 390. I had thought about an Edlebrock Performer high rise intake, and a set of decent headers. I already have a new Edle carb that I am happy with. Is this effort worth it without adding high flow cylinder heads as well? My objective is an easy, effective, and inexpensive upgrade.
 RE: Looking for easy bolt-on power package for my 390 -- dale large, 08/20/2000
i would strongly suggest performer intake,set of headers,and K&N filter!
Onmy 428 i put a performer intake,hooker comp. plus headers(not low dough there), holley 750 vac sec.edlebrock low profile air filter.major inprovement,but the holley quick change kit with differnt springs (for vac sec. to open quicker) made it into a monster. eats up 350s all day long. and a many has tried!!!! I also put a accle super coil didnt see much bang for the buck on the coil. try advancing your timing to arond 9* it helps my FE keep on truckin
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2489&Reply=2489><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Fuel tank removal</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>T1M, <i>08/19/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I see pretty much how to take the fuel tank out from under the car but does anyone know how the filler neck disconnects from the fender (the part where you actually put it the gas).<br> Thanks for any help </blockquote> Fuel tank removal -- T1M, 08/19/2000
I see pretty much how to take the fuel tank out from under the car but does anyone know how the filler neck disconnects from the fender (the part where you actually put it the gas).
Thanks for any help
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2509&Reply=2489><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Fuel tank removal</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Alan, <i>08/21/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>What kind of car is it? There's usually just a short piece of hose with hose clamps connecting<br>the tank and filler neck. </blockquote> RE: Fuel tank removal -- Alan, 08/21/2000
What kind of car is it? There's usually just a short piece of hose with hose clamps connecting
the tank and filler neck.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2512&Reply=2489><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Fuel tank removal</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Hot Rod Lorenzen, <i>08/21/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote> He's right, also if it does not have a hose in the trunk to connect the filler tube to the tank, the gas cap needs to be removed and the filler neck screws need to be removed. Good Luck! Hot Rod Lorenzen </blockquote> RE: Fuel tank removal -- Hot Rod Lorenzen, 08/21/2000
He's right, also if it does not have a hose in the trunk to connect the filler tube to the tank, the gas cap needs to be removed and the filler neck screws need to be removed. Good Luck! Hot Rod Lorenzen
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2513&Reply=2489><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>My uncle</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Hot Rod Lorenzen, <i>08/21/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote> One of my uncle's favorite tool is a "smoke wrench". He has found a way to remove any part on a car quickly. The effects leave something to be desired and his methods should not be used on fuel tanks. Just killing time. Hot Rod Lorenzen </blockquote> My uncle -- Hot Rod Lorenzen, 08/21/2000
One of my uncle's favorite tool is a "smoke wrench". He has found a way to remove any part on a car quickly. The effects leave something to be desired and his methods should not be used on fuel tanks. Just killing time. Hot Rod Lorenzen
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2514&Reply=2489><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b> Galaxie 500</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>T1M, <i>08/21/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>My car is a 68' Galaxie 500, 4-door sedan. I've looked where the filler neck meets the tank and there's just some rubber sort of gasket material around it that allows the neck to move somewhat freely and still be connected to the tank. I've removed four screws around the filler neck from the outside but it still seems to be held on by something.  Someone suggested that the neck is bolted onto inside of the fender? is  that possible?<br>  thanks for you help </blockquote>  Galaxie 500 -- T1M, 08/21/2000
My car is a 68' Galaxie 500, 4-door sedan. I've looked where the filler neck meets the tank and there's just some rubber sort of gasket material around it that allows the neck to move somewhat freely and still be connected to the tank. I've removed four screws around the filler neck from the outside but it still seems to be held on by something. Someone suggested that the neck is bolted onto inside of the fender? is that possible?
thanks for you help
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2519&Reply=2489><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>On my 67 Galaxie 2dr..</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Buddy, <i>08/22/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>this was a tough one to figure out and even then it's still a pain in the @$$.  On the steel filler neck itself there is a metal flange that rubber gasket covers. You will have to twist and turn and cuss until you can finally get it our of that black plastic housing. I think we ended up doing some cutting of that gasket and used screws and small steel plate to repair it with a lot RTV sealant. Be sure that the little piece of hose that goes from the bottom of that housing to the atmosphere is not blocked or you'll get raw smell inside the car. Getting it back in is even more fun. It ended up not being pretty but you can only see it when you open the gas door so it doesn't really matter.  </blockquote> On my 67 Galaxie 2dr.. -- Buddy, 08/22/2000
this was a tough one to figure out and even then it's still a pain in the @$$. On the steel filler neck itself there is a metal flange that rubber gasket covers. You will have to twist and turn and cuss until you can finally get it our of that black plastic housing. I think we ended up doing some cutting of that gasket and used screws and small steel plate to repair it with a lot RTV sealant. Be sure that the little piece of hose that goes from the bottom of that housing to the atmosphere is not blocked or you'll get raw smell inside the car. Getting it back in is even more fun. It ended up not being pretty but you can only see it when you open the gas door so it doesn't really matter.
 thanks Buddy -- T1M, 08/22/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2567&Reply=2489><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE:  Galaxie 500</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BILL, <i>08/26/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>On a 1968 ford remove the gas tank straps. Lower the tank to the right side of the car pull tank out. The rubber seal should stay in the tank. To reinstall tank put some oil on seal and filler neck. Push tank to filler neck till neck is  back in tank. Reinstall straps.  </blockquote> RE: Galaxie 500 -- BILL, 08/26/2000
On a 1968 ford remove the gas tank straps. Lower the tank to the right side of the car pull tank out. The rubber seal should stay in the tank. To reinstall tank put some oil on seal and filler neck. Push tank to filler neck till neck is back in tank. Reinstall straps.
 RE: Galaxie 500 -- Mark Lamport, 09/19/2000
Bill is right. I replaced the gas tank in my 67 Galaxie convertible and could not believe a new one cost me only $90.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2487&Reply=2487><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Help! Flywheel mounting help needed on 352.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rod Mauldin, <i>08/19/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>  After making the mistake of letting an engine shop pull my 352 out of my 62 Galaxie. I am now suffering the woes of letting someone else mess with your car. The guy said he had to replace my flywheel and installed a late model flywheel. Needless to say it didn't work. Wrong number of teeth and slightly larger diameter forces even NEW late model starter to hang up.He also threw my old one in the trash, OUCH! After pulling the engine this time myself(which I should have done the first time)and finding a correct flywheel. I want to make sure I install it corectly as I don't trust his judgement. On the flywheel where the crank is bolted up to it. There is a letter "C" over one of the bolt holes. I'm sure this must correspond with a point on the crank mounting plate. Trouble is, I don't know where. I noticed there is a "cresent" cut out and a slot on the crank to flywheel mounting plate. Does one of these markings line up with the "C" mark on my flywheel?<br>    I know my crank is factory balanced and not "detroit" balanced. But will the flywheel not be balanced if this "C" mark is not installed on correct crank stud?<br>   ANY help will be more than I know at present!<br>Thanks!<br>Rod </blockquote> Help! Flywheel mounting help needed on 352. -- Rod Mauldin, 08/19/2000
After making the mistake of letting an engine shop pull my 352 out of my 62 Galaxie. I am now suffering the woes of letting someone else mess with your car. The guy said he had to replace my flywheel and installed a late model flywheel. Needless to say it didn't work. Wrong number of teeth and slightly larger diameter forces even NEW late model starter to hang up.He also threw my old one in the trash, OUCH! After pulling the engine this time myself(which I should have done the first time)and finding a correct flywheel. I want to make sure I install it corectly as I don't trust his judgement. On the flywheel where the crank is bolted up to it. There is a letter "C" over one of the bolt holes. I'm sure this must correspond with a point on the crank mounting plate. Trouble is, I don't know where. I noticed there is a "cresent" cut out and a slot on the crank to flywheel mounting plate. Does one of these markings line up with the "C" mark on my flywheel?
I know my crank is factory balanced and not "detroit" balanced. But will the flywheel not be balanced if this "C" mark is not installed on correct crank stud?
ANY help will be more than I know at present!
Thanks!
Rod
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2490&Reply=2487><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help! Flywheel mounting help needed on 352.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Alan C., <i>08/20/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>It may not look like it but your flywheel will<br>only bolt one way. The six holes in the crank <br> are not the same distance apart and  there<br>is only one to put the flywheel on. I usually <br>just set the flywheel on the crank and roll it around until all the holes line up.  </blockquote> RE: Help! Flywheel mounting help needed on 352. -- Alan C., 08/20/2000
It may not look like it but your flywheel will
only bolt one way. The six holes in the crank
are not the same distance apart and there
is only one to put the flywheel on. I usually
just set the flywheel on the crank and roll it around until all the holes line up.
 RE: Help! Flywheel mounting help needed on 352. -- Rod Mauldin, 08/20/2000
As you can see I'm new to this! Thanks so much for your insight!
Rod
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2476&Reply=2476><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Hay guys! hopfully you don't kick me out too.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Jenkins, <i>08/19/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have been kicked out of both FE forums on network 54. This is the last FE forum I have left. I have an FE realted question, what are the casting numbers of a 428 CJ intake, are there any special things that I have to do to make the 428CJ intake work on my 352? I will most likly get kicked out of this forum too soon. So reaspond quick if you have any info. thanks! </blockquote> Hay guys! hopfully you don't kick me out too. -- Ed Jenkins, 08/19/2000
I have been kicked out of both FE forums on network 54. This is the last FE forum I have left. I have an FE realted question, what are the casting numbers of a 428 CJ intake, are there any special things that I have to do to make the 428CJ intake work on my 352? I will most likly get kicked out of this forum too soon. So reaspond quick if you have any info. thanks!
 RE: Hay guys! hopfully you don't kick me out too. -- John.J, 08/19/2000
Ed..The CJ's intake casting # is C80E-9425-C ,you should expect to pay about 100-125.00$$.If you get it cheaper bonus.The intake will work fine as is on your motor with your C6AE-R heads.You should be able to pick up a decent running used 390 for the same or alittle more(which i would suggest rather than sinking money into your 352,i think you'd be happier with the performance increase..ie..best bang for your buck!).JMO...John
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2485&Reply=2476><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Yeah, lets kick him out!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Hot Rod Lorenzen, <i>08/19/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote> Ed, that is brutal what they did to you. This is the best forum and you don't need to stray! Hot Rod Lorenzen </blockquote> Yeah, lets kick him out! -- Hot Rod Lorenzen, 08/19/2000
Ed, that is brutal what they did to you. This is the best forum and you don't need to stray! Hot Rod Lorenzen
 Thanks guys! I do have some friends left! Thanks! -- ED Jenkins, 08/19/2000
Not all but some of the other guys on the other FE forum are cold harted individals. At least I have a few friends left out in cyberspace! Thanks for the FE info!
 Hey Ed, you CAN'T get kicked out of the original -- Paul Lovett, 08/24/2000
FE forum. It is literally not possible. Come on back and try it again.

Paul
 RE: Hay guys! hopfully you don't kick me out too. -- Josh, 08/25/2000
I cant believe they kicked you out. Thats not very mature.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2466&Reply=2466><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Stereo Wiring</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>karim, <i>08/18/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have a 95 GT stang with the Mach 460 sound system and would like to add some subwoofers to it but I cannot find a wiring diagram to the system anywhere. I was hoping that someone out there could tell me where to wire my pre-amp output in order to hook up my RCA wires to the system need info badly.<br><br>Thanx<br>Karim </blockquote> Stereo Wiring -- karim, 08/18/2000
i have a 95 GT stang with the Mach 460 sound system and would like to add some subwoofers to it but I cannot find a wiring diagram to the system anywhere. I was hoping that someone out there could tell me where to wire my pre-amp output in order to hook up my RCA wires to the system need info badly.

Thanx
Karim
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2468&Reply=2466><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Stereo Wiring</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Lou, <i>08/18/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Not a chance. All you hear in the summer is boom boxes blasting as these ass____  drive to the local beach. </blockquote> RE: Stereo Wiring -- Lou, 08/18/2000
Not a chance. All you hear in the summer is boom boxes blasting as these ass____ drive to the local beach.
 Anyone else -- karim, 08/18/2000
Any one have an actual answer.
 RE: Stereo Wiring -- Hot Rod Lorenzen, 08/18/2000
I like loud tunes, but I think you are completely in the wrong Forum and the wrong website. Do you got a 427 in that thing? I'm just kidding! Hot Rod Lorenzen
 RE: Stereo Wiring -- Ryan, 08/18/2000
Check out this site, as it has many many different forums and even one taylored to automotive audio:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=audio&conf=misc
 RE: Stereo Wiring -- J. Robb, 08/18/2000
Try going down to your local Ford dealer, and ask to see a service manual, find the page(s) that you need, and ask to make a photocopy. 9 times out of 10 they will let you, and if they don't, just visit another one.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2464&Reply=2464><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 or 428?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>08/18/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a '66 fairlane GT...when i bought it it was suppose to be "all original"...well it's not!All the numbers i can find with engine in car are '68 #'s....intake is C80E 9425-C   exhaust manifold (right side) is # C80E-9430-A and the numbers i can see on the heads are #C80AE-H any help is appreciated ...thanks </blockquote> 390 or 428? -- Mike, 08/18/2000
I have a '66 fairlane GT...when i bought it it was suppose to be "all original"...well it's not!All the numbers i can find with engine in car are '68 #'s....intake is C80E 9425-C exhaust manifold (right side) is # C80E-9430-A and the numbers i can see on the heads are #C80AE-H any help is appreciated ...thanks
 RE: 390 or 428? -- Barry B., 08/18/2000
Sorry to hear about that Mike. For starters, you might want to check the stroke using a 1/4” wooden dowel down the spark plug hole. Insert the dowel and rotate the crank until the piston is at the top. Mark the dowel and then rotate the crank until the piston is at the bottom. Mark the dowel again and then remove it to measure between the marks. You might get lucky and take some of the sting out of the purchase.

Barry
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2478&Reply=2464><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 or 428?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Foral, <i>08/19/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Mike<br>Unless you are doing a concourse restoration, wouldn't it be better if you just happened to buy a 390 car with a 428CJ?<br>"Original" 390 parts are very cheap compared to the value of CJ parts.<br><br>Ed </blockquote> RE: 390 or 428? -- Ed Foral, 08/19/2000
Mike
Unless you are doing a concourse restoration, wouldn't it be better if you just happened to buy a 390 car with a 428CJ?
"Original" 390 parts are very cheap compared to the value of CJ parts.

Ed
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2481&Reply=2464><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 or 428?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>08/19/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ed....Yes you are right..what i'am try'in to find out now that i know it's not original is if i have a '68 390 with bolt on's or a '68 428... </blockquote> RE: 390 or 428? -- Mike, 08/19/2000
Ed....Yes you are right..what i'am try'in to find out now that i know it's not original is if i have a '68 390 with bolt on's or a '68 428...
 RE: 390 or 428? -- Ed Foral, 08/21/2000
Mike
Checking the approximate stroke through the spark plug hole is a start. You can also compare the date cast on the block as viewed from the bottom front of the block with the other components to check general probability.

Ed
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2515&Reply=2464><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 or 428?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>RC Moser, <i>08/22/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Mike,  To know for sure look on the drivers side of the block by the forward water jacket. Their should be a block I.D. Number. Usually just forward of the motor mounts. If it's a high preformance engine it should have the HP stamped below ID number. You really can't go by the heads due to somebody might of changed them. To me the only way to know for sure is to find these numbers. Another way is to look at the flex plate or Flywheel. 428's are externally balanced and will have a thicker flex plate with a weight welded on it. A 390 takes a 352 flex plate and is internally balanced so the flex plate will be thiner and have no balance weight. That's how I remember it, maybe someone will correct me it I'm wrong. RC </blockquote> RE: 390 or 428? -- RC Moser, 08/22/2000
Mike, To know for sure look on the drivers side of the block by the forward water jacket. Their should be a block I.D. Number. Usually just forward of the motor mounts. If it's a high preformance engine it should have the HP stamped below ID number. You really can't go by the heads due to somebody might of changed them. To me the only way to know for sure is to find these numbers. Another way is to look at the flex plate or Flywheel. 428's are externally balanced and will have a thicker flex plate with a weight welded on it. A 390 takes a 352 flex plate and is internally balanced so the flex plate will be thiner and have no balance weight. That's how I remember it, maybe someone will correct me it I'm wrong. RC
 RE: 390 or 428? -- robert, 08/26/2000
rc is correct about the flex plate. you should be able to view the bobweight by dropping down the inspection cover. while i cant tell you which side of the flex plate the bobweight is on tou can see the discolation where its welded on if its facing the torque coverter. this is a sure fire way to tell if its a 428 or not since a 428 must be externally balanced. that is unless you can afford to give your machinist about $800 for tungston!! ps i have some 390 gt parts i love to trade! hey its a 66 failane love it the way it is and if its got a 428 it just makes a good thing better.
 more axel information requested -- Paul Davis, 08/18/2000
I have had lots of great imput from all on my axel questions for my FE. I am still a little fuzzy on a few issues. I know I have probably already read over the answer from you and did not get it. Please summerize the the answers to the questions that I am still fuzzy on. 1. It appears to me that 31 spline axels are easy to identify by looking at the outer end of axel (behind hubcap). Is that correct? 2. 31 spline axels will fit some original (from factory) 28 spline axel housings depending on bearing ID size of 28 spline housing. Is that correct? What is the OD size of the 31 spline axel? I will need it when I pull my 28 spline axel to measure my bearing ID to see if it is large enough for the OD of 31 spline axel. Sorry, I know these are probably dumb questions that may have already been answered. Thank you Paul Davis


Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2459&Reply=2459><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Fuel tank sending unit test.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Lou, <i>08/17/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>While I was cleaning out by garage I found 3 gas tanks that I belive are from 52 to 56 Ford cars, the tanks are going out but I saved the sending units. They look fine but how do I check them to see if they are working? </blockquote> Fuel tank sending unit test. -- Lou, 08/17/2000
While I was cleaning out by garage I found 3 gas tanks that I belive are from 52 to 56 Ford cars, the tanks are going out but I saved the sending units. They look fine but how do I check them to see if they are working?
 RE: Fuel tank sending unit test. -- Hot Rod Lorenzen, 08/18/2000
With an ohm meter on the wire connection stud you should get nearly identical resistance readings on the three sending units while swiping the floats thru their range of motion. Hot Rod Lorenzen
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2451&Reply=2451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Intake Manifold</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ryan, <i>08/17/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a stock '74 390 with a 2v carb and manifold. I was wondering if I would gain anything from changing to a stock 4v intake and afteramrket 4v carb. I found the intake and it's selling cheap. I don't want to spend a lot of money on a new edelbrock~~etc.! If I can gain a little from a stock 4v, then I'd be happy. Can any modifications be made to better the 4v intake?<br>Any rapid response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance...Ryan<br><br> </blockquote> Intake Manifold -- Ryan, 08/17/2000
I have a stock '74 390 with a 2v carb and manifold. I was wondering if I would gain anything from changing to a stock 4v intake and afteramrket 4v carb. I found the intake and it's selling cheap. I don't want to spend a lot of money on a new edelbrock~~etc.! If I can gain a little from a stock 4v, then I'd be happy. Can any modifications be made to better the 4v intake?
Any rapid response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance...Ryan

 RE: Intake Manifold -- Hot Rod Lorenzen, 08/17/2000
Ryan, typically the potential of your stock 2-V intake has no advantage to the 4-V. Most 2-v carbs are larger in the primaries than that of the 4-V carbs. Many old-timers used to say that a 600 or 650 carb can increase fuel economy if you are gentle with the throttle. It is also nice to know those secondaries are there! Hot Rod Lorenzen
 RE: Intake Manifold Swap, Beware -- Bill Ballinger, 08/19/2000
Intake manifolds can sometimes be a pain to get the bottoms of the ports to seal on these engines. If the angle of the intake setting to the valley causes a gap in the bottom they will suck oil into the ports and burn it like crazy. If your block or heads have ever been decked(especially without precise milling equipment to track the angle), the intake will need the angle matched. There is a possibility also that an intake you buy may have been modified to fit a "cut" engine.

You might want to get someone(if you don't have the experience yourself) who can acccurately measure the angles with a protractor and see if they are square to each other. It will save you grief later pulling it and doing it again.
 RE: Intake Manifold -- Buddy, 08/21/2000
I did this swap on my 67 Galaxie with a 390 and noticed quite a difference when opening up those secondaries. I used an iron 4bbl intake I pulled from a junkyard from a forgoten 64 Galaxie with a 352. I've experrience no problems and did see a SLIGHT reduction in fuel consumption.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=2449&Reply=2449><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Shock Tower Plates</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Darren, <i>08/17/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Where can I buy shock tower plates to get a litlle more header room in my 67 Mustang?<br><br>Thanks </blockquote> Shock Tower Plates -- Darren, 08/17/2000
Where can I buy shock tower plates to get a litlle more header room in my 67 Mustang?

Thanks
 RE: Shock Tower Plates -- martin edridge, 08/17/2000
If you are intending to perform the process known commonly as 'Nothing the Shocktowers' then why don't you just make them yourself? No rocket science involved, just some good thick steel plate a hacksaw and grinder and lots of elbow grease. Just make sure the welding is properly done. HTH
Cheers, Martin.
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