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 |  Shoe, thank you -- Paul Davis, 08/10/2000
Shoe, Thank your for GT 390 head response on 7-24-00. In 1967 I had 390 GT that was weak. I never new why. I am just getting back to FE since 1967. I have a 69 Mach1 SCJ & it runs. We are also building stock coupe 69,390 up to 428 cj (cj heads after your response) and were wondering what exhaust manifolds to put on it. Thank you Paul Davis
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 | oil for old engines -- T1M, 08/08/2000
is it better to use a lighter weight oil for an old 390? Something that penetrates into and protects the old bearings better? What about sythetic oils and oil treatments like DuraLube?
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|  | RE: oil for old engines -- gerry, 08/09/2000
First, the weight oil you use largly depends on how tight the engine clearances are. If the engine is fresh and bearings are running less than .002, then you can probably use a 10W-30. If you are at or over .002, then you would want to consider the heavier weights. But the real criteria is what your hot/cold and idle/2krpm pressure is.
The proper oil also depends on how you use the engine. If you operate the engine in very hot climates or run it hard, you would probably want to consider a heavier weight oil.
Synthetics are not a problem in older engines, but be aware that synthetics have a way of finding their way out of your engine through previously tight seals. You would have to try it to see if your engine becomes a leaker. Otherwise, there are no mechanical drawbacks.
Older, worn engines as a rule tend to favor a heavier weight oil since their bearing clearances have opened up through wear over time. Oil does not penetrate bearings. It forms a film between the journals and the shell. When the oil is too thin, it shears and allows contact. You most of all want to maintain that film strength and you do that by selecting an oil that has a high enough viscosity. |
| Edelbrock exhaust port. -- Chris, 08/08/2000
I was reading the post below and it opened my eyes a bit to the exhaust runner issues with FE's. I have a Edelbrock headed motor, can I assume that these have the high exit exhaust port. I had the opportunity to buy a sweet 390 with all the edelbrock goodies so I'm learning about FE's as I go, all help is appreciated. |
| To sleeve or not to sleeve... -- Louie, 08/08/2000
Looking at a block. Has some gouges right at the top of one of the bores. Looks like something was dropped on it. Can these be welded or is sleeving necessary. My old machinist hung up his calipers in favor of a more lucrative racing career so I'm checking out new ones. One said no welding, sleeving is required. Gimme some of those humble opinions. |
| | RE: To sleeve or not to sleeve... -- Ed Foral, 08/09/2000
Louie
I get the impression that you think that a sleeve is bad and that welding is good?
I would not hesitate in putting a sleeve in a block, and I have seen blocks wrecked by welding.
Ed |
| | | RE: Oh, not not at all... -- Louie, 08/09/2000
As I don''t have any experience with either, I am rather humble. I have just heard that it is very critical to do it properly (uh duh) and my thought''s were to go with the method that posed the least possibility of a machine shop screwing it up. With having to look for a new machinist now I am kind of skittish. |
| | RE: To sleeve or not to sleeve... -- Bill Troth, 08/09/2000
Sleeving should be far less expensive than welding and any good reputable machine shop should be able to sleeve the block. To my knowledge the only successful way to weld a block without distortion is to heat it in a furnace then weld it hot and there are few shops that can do this. |
| Rocker Stand questions -- Chris, 08/07/2000
I'm new to FE's (Love Fords, have built a windsor and a 460) and have some questions regarding rocker stands and shafts. I understand that standard motors came with aluminum stands, and that HP motors came with iron stands. Also, I know certain companies (Dove, FPP, PCE?) sell conversions or upgrades. Here's my problem: I'm running a 390 with Ebock heads with stock springs, a comp cam with .525 lift and 224 duration at .050, I'll only ever turn it 5500rpm tops. I didn't build the engine, it came with stock aluminum stands and I assume shafts. It does have comp cams (I've learned they're made by Dove) roller rockers. Will these stands/shafts survive with this cam, springs, and rpm range or do I need to upgrade? I've heard about the stands galling (I don't see how since they're not contacting anything), the shafts galling, and the stands walking. If I need an upgrade, can someone tell me if I just need to move to iron stands, better shafts, a kit that supports the shaft ends, or any combo. of these? Thanks in advance for any help, I don't want to crank this thing up and start having valvetrain problems. |
| | RE: Rocker Stand questions -- gerry, 08/08/2000
There really aren't any common durability problems with FE stands, shafts, or rockers, Chris. I haven't done a scientific survey of all valve train related failures, but the stock system seems very stout as long as it isn't overstressed by very high spring pressures and very high rpm over long periods.
The springs used in the Edelbrock heads are not stiff enough to cause durability problems, and the rpm you're turning will not put undue stress on the assembly. Your roller rockers are even a bit overkill for your combination.
Just properly torque everything. |
| | | RE: Rocker Stand questions -- Chris, 08/08/2000
Thanks much, that's good to hear. I'll keep an eye on the torque specs for the first few thousand miles after I fire it up. |
|  | RE: Rocker Stand questions -- Ken, 08/09/2000
Chris,
The FE is one tough motor because of its design and centerline positioning of the crankshaft. It''s been my experience though if there''s one weak link in the FE it''s the rocker shaft area. From my own experience I''ve broke more then one shaft with cams no larger then 244 @ .050 w/.560 lift and were never past 6000 rpm, some were less cam then that. For me it''s always been over #4 and #8 cylinders.
The aluminum stands will tend to walk and it''s only compounded further by the springs separating the rockers. Not to say it will happen to you, but if it does you''ll wish you spent some extra money there if you need to rebuild the motor. I opt for a complete Dove set up now which includes heavy shafts, billet aluminum stands, solid rocker spacers, roller rockers, and rocker shaft end supports. They''re very pricey, but for the way mine is set up they''re well worth it.
There are however other options that are cheaper, I believe it''s only a few hundred dollars. They''re not as strong as a Dove set up, but much more so then stock and should be fine for your application. Call Summit Racing, I think they sell a better shaft and stand and also have the solid spacers. You''ve already got the good rockers and you can always get end supports in the future.
Just my "costly" experience
Hope it helps
Ken
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| | | RE: Rocker Stand questions -- Chris, 08/09/2000
It sucks to have to buy parts that may never be "needed", but it really sucks to not buy them, blow up the motor, and then end up buying them anyway. I like to be on the safe side. I have a lot of work to do to the truck before it''s ready for the road so that should give me time to save up for good stands and shafts. Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply. |
| rear axle for 63 fairlane, has 428 cj -- bob wilson, 08/06/2000
need some info please !!
im sure there are one of you guys can help me,
i am putting togeter a 63 fairlane, with a 428 cj motor, c6 auto trans and have a rear axle question, i was told that the 57 fords fairlane has the narrowest rear axle at 52 inches?and that is a bolt in deal?
well i got one from a guy in the south , i cked the back of the housing and there is no fill plug in housing,seems there is a drain plug in the bottom of the housing and fill plug in the carrier,it is 52 inches long from inside flange to inside flange,there is a metal id tag on carrier and reads # 31 , that all,ther are no dipples in the housing but the carrier looks like a n case carrier heavy webbing at top of case by the pinion and ther are 10 bolts that hold carrier in the housing,will this work for me and would like to use a 4;30 gear, will that carrier do for now and this vehicle will be for street use, thanxs for any info you can give, bob |
| | RE: rear axle for 63 fairlane, has 428 cj -- Lou, 08/07/2000
Yes this will work, and it is a 57 thru 59 housing, but if the carrier is 57/59 Ford car it is not a 9 inch. Ford started using 9 inch on the 1959 Ford trucks and did not use them on the cars until the 1961 390 - 385 & 401 HP cars. (I have a 60 T-Bird with a 352 hipo that has a stock 3.70 inch and it uis not a 9 inch) Take the unit apart and measure the ring gear, and count the teeth to see what you have. |
| What is the valve angle of FE heads? -- Whole Lotta Tom, 08/06/2000
The C/L of the valves relative to the C/L of the bore. Thanks in advance. |
| | RE: What is the valve angle of FE heads? -- Joe, 08/13/2000
Valve angle ont all FE heads is 13 degrees |
 | 2 FE Crank Key Widths? -- COUGAR, 08/06/2000
mr F,
Do you know if there are 2 different crank key widths for FE's? Are FT crank keys different than FE's?
COUGAR
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| 428 and 406 -- Jack K, 08/05/2000
what kinda compression would you get with c3 406 heads on a 69 428scj?a freind just bought a 69 formal roof cobra that has this combo, and i cant find any of my old fe books.thanks |
| | RE: 428 and 406 -- Ed Foral, 08/06/2000
Jack
If these are the small chamber heads, then bolting them onto a stock type 428 short block would yield easily over 12:1.
Ed |
| engine or block I.D. -- TOM TAYLOR, 08/05/2000
Hi guys, I am about to purchase a 1967 Falcon that someone has fitted a 4V 390, 3 speed toploader and 9" rear into.
I am not sure how to confirm the engine is a 390 and not, say, a 352. It has a cast iron intake with a 600 Holley and cast finned rocker-covers, I cannot recall seeing any I.D. tag anywhere.
Can you measure the stroke on these engines by putting a 12" length of brazing rod into a spark-plug hole and wind the engine over slowly, marking the rod top and bottom of the stroke?
I drive a '55 F-100 with a 1970 429 4V and C-6, I know you FE types will hate this but it would just eat the 390 in the Falcon, hence my concern about what size of engine it actually is. TOM |
| | RE: engine or block I.D. -- Ed Foral, 08/05/2000
Yes.....you can check the stroke this way.
Check the intake and head casting numbers, it is allways interesting to see what is out there.
Ed |
| | | RE: engine or block I.D. -- TOM TAYLOR, 08/05/2000
Ed, thanks for a quick reply, however could you tell me any casting numbers that would identify engine size, head type etc?, I dont't want to buy a 390 and find out it ain't.
There is always a chance that someone could have grenaded the 390 and put a 332 between the 390 heads and sump.
Engine parts are not the easiest to get hold of in New Zealand, well not at the prices I see in the U.S. magazines - the exchange rate is N.Z.$ = 49c U.S. and our salaries etc are about the same as in your country.
Could you also recomend a similar e-mail address like this for 385 series engines?
Catch ya later, TOM T. |
| | | | RE: engine or block I.D. -- Ed Foral, 08/05/2000
Tom
The 429 Mustang or 429 Torino forums can be found by clicking on the "other forum" bar at the top of the main screen, or by going to fomoco.com and going to the forum list.
There are many heads used on everything from the 352 to a base 428, and others used on both the truck 360 and a car 390.
It is easier if you list the numbers and we can see what they are. Some of the intakes were unique, so these casting numbers are sometimes helpful. The block numbers are also shared between different engines.
If you can drop the pan and get the crank stamping or casting number, you will have more usable info.
Ed |
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