Thanks for the info! Do you know why they are different?

A good number of people believe that the CJ blocks were made of a higher nodularity iron material, including the caps.

This would suggest that 'standard' FE caps are less desirable, though whether it's true or not, or how much, is anybody's guess.

Since you would have to align bore the engine anyway if fitted with different caps, why not consider going right to cross-bolt main caps?

Along with high quality main studs, the improvement in bottom end strength (far less prone to cracking up through the main-cam saddles) is very significant.

Used ones from a 427 block come up often enough on eBay (typically about $150-200), or they can be sourced through some of the known FE parts vendors.

There are also heavier-duty steel ones, designed to be easier to fit/install on standard FE blocks, such as the ProForm ones. As suggested in another post, a GOOD machinist won't have any trouble fitting either of them to your block.

With good CJ blocks getting harder and harder to come by, this investment should then guarantee that yours will be up for whatever you're going to ask of it, for many, many years to come.

Any of the autobody metal preps, such as Dupont M-10, will neutralize the fine stuff (after you get all the rough stuff removed...wire wheel, etc.). Then use zinc chromate primer vs the red oxide stuff. No, it's not only for aluminum, just most people consider it too expensive to bother with for clean steel. I don't. Another coat of trem-clad between the primer and the final paint helps also, but trem-clad alone chips easily.

30 over, forged pistons, block shaved, heads 209 165 stainless valves, edelbrock rpm intake, 514 cam at 280, 725 holley, c6 was rebuilt with shift kit, i even changed my rear gears from 3.00 to a 3.55, the car should be good, i cant mash the gas and even get a tire chirp, i mess with the timing to no avail, after around 35 or so the car really performes well, but a real slug up to that point whatcha think

thanks! do you know what the valve size might be for a stock set of heads?

thay sound like 1962 406 heads, that wer hoged out for the bigger valves. $1800 is a littel steap thay would problie bring good money for a 62 406 restro project outher than that i,d not get to excited

http://www.carlsfordparts.com/main.html

You will want to check the 'List' numbers on your existing carbs, and note any other numbers there on the airhorn too (such as Ford casting #'s).

If you have the 'correct' matched Holleys for use on a 427 engine already, you may well be better off to just send them to an established Holley high performance carb rebuilder, for a thorough inspection and overhaul.

This is likely to be far less expensive than a purchase of the new OEM replacements, which generally go for the better part of $1,000 a pair!

Barry Grant carburetion has also indicated they should soon have matched sets of their Road Demon Jr. type carbs available for 'normally aspirated' dual-quad use. They have the ones for supercharged applications available now.

It is frequently difficult for persons not trained/skilled in Holley carb modifications to make the standard aftermarket 4-Bbl carbs (such as the R-1850 600cfm series) work smoothly and correctly in dual-quad use.

60/64 352/390/406/427 with proforamce air cleaner single 4 barrel.

sorry its hydraulic. I know the valves are adjusted correctly but they are making alot of noise. He are the specifics of the motor.

390 block .030, 10.5 forged pistons, head have oversized valves, comp cams xtreme 262 cam 513 intake 520 exhaust. comp cams lifters, valve springs, crane adjustable rockers
edelbrock performer rpm intake, holley 700 carb, msd distributor.
oil pressure is 60psi cold, but drops to 20psi when it get hot. from what I hear this is pretty much normal for an fe motor.