Hi Neal! Armond D'Agostini here! You need to talk to Greg Scott at Dougs Auto in Orem! He is the Best!

neil check out my posts i have one on how i change seals

n/m

. . . the casting date of the block. The date is 1966 (6) September (J), 27the day (27), September 27, 1966.
The C8ME-A is the engineering number used to ID the application. In this case it would translate to 1968 (C8) , Mercury (M), Engine (E). I don't know what type of block that would be. Try to measure the bore and post that number for addtional help from the gurus here.
But you still have to figure out how a 1968 engine ended up with at 1966 casting date . . . which would be a nice trick if you can pull it off. :-)
I suspect one of the 6s or 8s is being mis-read. Scrub it with some carb cleaner and take another look.

I had this in my 73 it got low on oil once and the lifter became flat it still worked but made noise till i replaced the lifter maybe someone elese can help you out

i,d try a heaver oil maybe strait 30 weigth? maybe your engin is old and runing it low on oil put it over the edge?

normaly the truck has a 6 or 7 quart pan,low oil pressure indicates mostly a bearing wear/failure,bad lifters,cam lobe wear hardley affect oil pressure,but i have run into a unique problem, with oils,i have had the base separate from the carrier,gooey jelly,and a light oil ,the oil separated,bearing failure in no time,this not only happened to my fairlane,but my work truck(460)and a few other trucks,i had enough sense to shut it down when i heard the lifters rattle,and was still full of oil,they pulled the pan,found the same thing,the other guys blew their engines,all of us were running oil from the same vendor at the timealso another thing,in the early 70'sford did not warranty the 351 c if you used quaker state oil,the parrafin base would plug the returns in the heads

n/m

Try here:
http://www.oldairproducts.com/shop/index.php?cPath=30000000_60000000&osCsid=b08ca78b4bbdd174659cab0c7af69606

Under the Ford brackets, you can get the entire aftermarket retrofit assembly. You can also get the adapter bracket alone under "brackets" that mounts a Sanden compressor in place of the York if you have some of the parts.

Just FYI, there were various configurations for factory FE A/C brackets. While most will work, there are year-to-year and model-to-model changes. Some use a tensioner and idler, some don't. Some use additional bracing, some don't. I only bring this up so that you know to get the whole shebang from one car, rather than bits and pieces. You'll of course need a crank pulley to drive the A/C so the more complete, the better.

rear seals can be a bitch how i replace them i use a soft brazing rod non coated and coax the uper half of the rear seal out with it. then i use carb cleaner to wash out the seal pocket.and oil up the new seal and slip it in, the new styal tipe not the rope tipe make shure to remove the pin on the lower half of the cap it will deform the new tipe of seal this sounds eazier than it is to do but it can be done.take your time some go eazy some go hard mostly hard.........

Try seaching under Shelby not Mustang.
http://www.seriouswheels.com/1960-1969/1968-Shelby-GT500-KR.htm

Yes, you do need to jack up the engine since this is the only way to get access to some of the bolts at the spring towers. But that's the easy part since it just removing the bolt from the mount and jacking the engine up a few inches.

Of course, the hard part is getting to all the header bolts, particularly the bottom ones. You might (probably will) have to remove the starter.

I would say that this job doesn't require any particularly mechanical skill other than patience. Plan on the better part of the day to do this.

Just finished tko 600 on 428 in a 67 mustang. Its a tight fit, my big paw doesn't fit between top trany and tunnel at all.
I had to cut some of the floor pan to fit as shifter spot fits just over to the right from original spot about 1.5" too far. I could take a pitcher of that for you. Cutting wasn't a big deal for me as car was drag raced for about 10 years and was already cut so tunnel repair was already in order. Use this input shaft to convert trany to work with toploader bell
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=TR0132+01

use this fluid
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=GM1234+01
you can save $1 qt at chevy dealership

use this cross member
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4542337087&category=34208&sspagename=WD1V

if you have headers you need to trim some with headers but driveline angle with this is perfect. If you have headers install w/o trany and you'll see trim required, takes longer to preinstall then to grind off difference.

You'll need a c6 31 spline input shaft to convert drive shaft, find a used one on ebay etc and don't pay more than $40 for it.

Also buy a good after market shifter, I cut my shifter handle and rewelded it on to place it further back for a better shifter location, but I'm 6'4" and my seat is slid back as far as possible. On my dads I plan to use a hurst pro comp. shifter lever and drill holes in it to better locate.
Also check out the links below for more info or email w/ specific questions.
Chuck

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1966/5speed.html?200524

http://www.intermeccanica.org/vehicles/italia/italialit/Tremec.htm

http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/calculators.html

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0404_gear/

best shifter on the market and prices are right on
http://ddperformance.com/FordGMShifters.htm

Thanks for the input chuck!
on the links you send me the input shaft is just what i need, the guys who i getting the tko try to sell me one input shaft with 26 spline and my input shaft is 10 spline my clutch disc diameter is 11. 5 and the one they sell is 11. Inches 26 spline so i dont like the idea of installing smaller clutch disc. Is a big deal to replace the input shaft? like instaling the shims and remove the bearing raise, does the input shaft kit comes with instructions?.
the link for the tranny mount is also perfect cause the mount look off set and is just what my car need.
on the drive shaft since the tko and the toploader have the same length all i have to do is replace the sleep joke to 32 spline.
i realy like to look some of the pics on that floor pan surgery cause im sure i have to do the same thing.
if i replace the input shaft i dont have to replace the clutch trowout bearing?
.