Walt, I've also been getting a ton of German language spam from spoofed emails on this forum. Fortunately I'm closing that account but I'm not entering in my email address anymore.

Hey stick around! I like reading your posts! Who cares what the numbers' guys say.

walt dont give up on this site i know alot of bs go,s around but your very informitive and even the cheavy sites get the autong german emails..........

n/m

n/m

Richard,
maybe these guy's will answer your question?

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182

A 428 is 4.13" bore and 3.98" stroke. Any other size FE is something else. There is no other accurate foolproof way to tell.

Royce

What kind of a project are you working on?

go salvage yard scavaging they should be faily comon. even that old stuf is fairly easy to find.wen it comes to tranies..

Very difficult to do with crank in, although I guess it could be done.....best to have a couple of seal kits handy. And use rubber seal vs rope seal....rope os "old technology". I never seem to remember about the FE, but on the small block (289) there was a pin to keep the rope seal from rotating. If the FE has one, it has to be removed. If it is in the block, the crank definately has to come out...if in the ebaring cap...that makes it more easy..my memory fails me on this point. As far as leaking goes, my FE leaks....can't tell where....dont' think it is the rear seal...but not the front either.....maybe just around the pan.....hmmmm. I am meticulous about assembling engines, and all of my FE's have leaked. No others though....from SB Fords, to Datsuns, to Pontiacs, etc...So...unless you know it is leaking from the rear, ...and leaking badly....best to leave it alone until another reason prompts you to tear the engine down, or at least remove it from the vehicle.

jeff check out my posts for giacamo 4or 5 posts back on oil pumps i out lined how i replace rear seals

heres thing thats often overlooked,improper ventatation on the crank case,will cuause good seals and gaskets to leak,make sure that you have proper ventaltion, before you blame the seals or gaskets

Heads are ordinary 390 type. Intake and exhaust manifolds are cast iron junk if they are the originals.

You might think about a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads, a Comp Cams 282S cam, an Erson rocker arm setup. Pistons from Wiseco or Ross.

Your stock block and crankshaft and rods should work fine.

Royce

OK- so what does that mean for me building my "hot rod" engine- my engine builder is very experienced w/ FE/ Ford big glocks, so I just need to tell him what I want- any ideas out there? I'd like it torquey, maybe 425-500HP, reliable, etc....

i'm pretty sure that the 351 c had it's own bell housing,will not mate up with the windsor or m series blocks,the m will bolt up to the 429/460 series,the trans out of a light duty truck,if it has a granny gear first is possibly a new process 435 trans,will not fit,unless you cut floor pans,there a tranny site in in this forum that can possibly supply you the info and the parts

www.428cobrajet.com
Go to this site & look at some of the pix.
Should be useful........
JW

I put one in.....best thing I ever did for my engine from a performance vs $ standpoint. So, either you suddenly have an unrelated problem, or your timing is off. If you have vacumn advance, make sure it is disconnected and the vacumn line plugged off before you set your timing. Vacumn advance is more for a daily driver car (where gas mileage is a concern), so I run mechanical advance only....much less confusion when working on a modified engine. Can't remember for sure, but seems to me retarded timing will cause overheating....advanced timing will cause pinging. Anyway, the pertonix unit only simulates the points and won't affect cooling.......timing will.....suggest you check again. And of course......co-incidence.....did you do this yesterday?...Friday the 13th?....cuz maybe yesterday your thermostat just screwed up for no reason at all...........LOL....a "twilight zone 390". Good luck and let us know what you find out please.

steve you might have to ck timing and set to 10 degrees with vacum hoses off and plugged at dist 2nd you might have to run next colder spark plug greg f

Sound/tone, etc. are influenced by so many variables, i.e., exhaust manifolds vs. headers, cam specs., pipe size/location & exit. And don't forget personal preference just like the variety of opinions on music.

But more importantly, the also ran thing at factory stock shootouts....I just don't give much credibility to these "events". But I must admit I've never participated. But it seems that times/mph are being turned that are much better than what was truly factory stock tests back in the late sixties/early seventies. There are so many things that can be tweaked/tuned. I believe, too, that there are a lot more guys prepping/racing these "factory stock" GM's/Mopars's than there are Ford/Merc folks.

I believe that it's factual to say that the 428CJ, and the 427 anything, have proven themselves as capable competition for just about anyother factory muscle engine of the era. The 428CJ continues to do well in various Stock/Super Stock drag racing classes.