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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24706&Reply=24706><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>F100 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>pacman, <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 73 F100 with a stock 390.  It has a 2 barrell that is old and leaking. I am considering the Edelbrock power package.  It comes with a 750cfm 4 barrell, aluminum intake, lifters and cam.  Has anyone tried this package?  What can be expected?  Should I opt for the 600 cfm instead?  Any help greatly appreciated. </blockquote> F100 390 -- pacman, 04/24/2005
I have a 73 F100 with a stock 390. It has a 2 barrell that is old and leaking. I am considering the Edelbrock power package. It comes with a 750cfm 4 barrell, aluminum intake, lifters and cam. Has anyone tried this package? What can be expected? Should I opt for the 600 cfm instead? Any help greatly appreciated.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24780&Reply=24706><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Re: f100 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>04/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Do you mean the Edelbrock Performer Package?  <br><br>I think that for an F100 that's basically stock, the E'brock Performer Package, including their Performer cam/lifters/springs/intake and a 600 CFM carb would be best.  I'd also strongly consider the change over to headers.  Hedman offers a nice set at a resonable price.<br><br>This package will really wake up your 390.<br><br>I've personally run the Performer intake on two FE's.  A 390 with a 600 E'brock carb and a 428CJ with a Performer intake and 750 E'brock carb.   The 600 worked perfectly on the 390 right out of the box.  The 750 took a little tweaking using the "Strip-Kit" that includes step-up springs, metering rods and jets.  The 750 carb was easy to tune and once tuned it worked perfectly. </blockquote> Re: f100 390 -- McQ, 04/29/2005
Do you mean the Edelbrock Performer Package?

I think that for an F100 that's basically stock, the E'brock Performer Package, including their Performer cam/lifters/springs/intake and a 600 CFM carb would be best. I'd also strongly consider the change over to headers. Hedman offers a nice set at a resonable price.

This package will really wake up your 390.

I've personally run the Performer intake on two FE's. A 390 with a 600 E'brock carb and a 428CJ with a Performer intake and 750 E'brock carb. The 600 worked perfectly on the 390 right out of the box. The 750 took a little tweaking using the "Strip-Kit" that includes step-up springs, metering rods and jets. The 750 carb was easy to tune and once tuned it worked perfectly.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24797&Reply=24706><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Re: f100 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>pacman, <i>04/30/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks McQ for your advice.<br><br>Do you know where a new Electronic Duraspark ignition can be purchased or do you recommend something different to get rid of the points/condensor combo? </blockquote> RE: Re: f100 390 -- pacman, 04/30/2005
Thanks McQ for your advice.

Do you know where a new Electronic Duraspark ignition can be purchased or do you recommend something different to get rid of the points/condensor combo?
 RE:Distributors? -- McQ, 05/02/2005
I know that you can buy a rebuilt '76 Electronic ignition with the application being Ford pick up of course.

MSD now offers a FE electronic distributor with vacuum advance. Should be an excellent item but I'm sure it's between $200-$300.

You might want to consider converting a good FE distributor to the Pertronix System. A lot of folks are using them with a lot of success. I have a Pertronix II in an original Ford dual point distributor along with an MSD 6A box. This is working well so far. But it's in a fairly high performance 427. I think you'd be fine & happy with just the Pertronix system in your stock distributor. I ran a Pertonix conversion in my son's '66 Fairlane for many years, well, he ran it, and it never failed him or I.

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24699&Reply=24699><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>More on the 351w problems</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob S., <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Tried one more thing, and would like feedback on this if anyone else has experienced similar issues...<br>A friend had a similar problem with a chevy motor.  He said that the transmission modulator connection coming into the intake could be a problem.  Well, I seperated the connection and masked the intake fitting and we seemed to get less smoke out of the right bank.  I did not run the motor for a very long time, (about 15 minutes) but did notice an improvement in the amount of smoke coming from the exhaust.  Any additional thoughts about this will be appreciated.  (especially thoughts on what to do if this ends up being the cause of the problem with my #4 cylinder)<br>Thanks, Bob </blockquote> More on the 351w problems -- Bob S., 04/24/2005
Tried one more thing, and would like feedback on this if anyone else has experienced similar issues...
A friend had a similar problem with a chevy motor. He said that the transmission modulator connection coming into the intake could be a problem. Well, I seperated the connection and masked the intake fitting and we seemed to get less smoke out of the right bank. I did not run the motor for a very long time, (about 15 minutes) but did notice an improvement in the amount of smoke coming from the exhaust. Any additional thoughts about this will be appreciated. (especially thoughts on what to do if this ends up being the cause of the problem with my #4 cylinder)
Thanks, Bob
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24700&Reply=24699><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: More on the 351w problems</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>yes a bad vac mod, on the trany can pickup trans fluid and cause smoke... </blockquote> RE: More on the 351w problems -- giacamo, 04/24/2005
yes a bad vac mod, on the trany can pickup trans fluid and cause smoke...
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24701&Reply=24699><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: More on the 351w problems</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob S., <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>If that ends up being the problem, what is involved in repairing the problem? </blockquote> RE: More on the 351w problems -- Bob S., 04/24/2005
If that ends up being the problem, what is involved in repairing the problem?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24702&Reply=24699><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: More on the 351w problems</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>The transmission modulator valve not hard to replace. It is screwed into the rear of the transmisssion near the rear crossmember. Just remove the rubber hose and unscrew it to remove. There is a pin the the center of the out valve that will need to be put in the need one, then just screw it back in. No big deal </blockquote> RE: More on the 351w problems -- raycfe, 04/24/2005
The transmission modulator valve not hard to replace. It is screwed into the rear of the transmisssion near the rear crossmember. Just remove the rubber hose and unscrew it to remove. There is a pin the the center of the out valve that will need to be put in the need one, then just screw it back in. No big deal
 RE: More on the 351w problems -- Bob S., 04/24/2005
Thanks, I appreciate all your help. This has not been as easy as I had hoped. Finally getting closer to solving it however. We've tried everything on the #4 cylinder except having the head Magnafluxed for cracks. Compression testing the right bank on Monday and will hopefully not find anything unusual.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24693&Reply=24693><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>72 390 not firing on #4 why?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gene sherwood, <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have a 72 390 with less than 3000 miles on it an # 4 has 110 lbs of compression an all other cylinders r at 120 theres some spark but not enough fuel ? any help here id really be grateful thx. </blockquote> 72 390 not firing on #4 why? -- gene sherwood, 04/24/2005
i have a 72 390 with less than 3000 miles on it an # 4 has 110 lbs of compression an all other cylinders r at 120 theres some spark but not enough fuel ? any help here id really be grateful thx.
 RE: 72 390 not firing on #4 why? -- giacamo, 04/24/2005
sounds like it has compresion? plug maybe fouled or just bad? bad plug wire leaking spark off to ground? cracked cap or carbon tracing in cap making it mis fire?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24675&Reply=24675><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Hurst shifter part # question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BB67FB, <i>04/23/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hello, I am looking for the part number for the hurst competition plus shifter installation kit for a 67 mustang 390 car.  I looked it up on the mr. gasket site, and they listed three different kits for that application, but I know at least one of them is incorrect, as its for the small block- unless they are interchangeable! If any one has the right number, I sure would appreciate it! Thanks!<br>nick </blockquote> Hurst shifter part # question -- BB67FB, 04/23/2005
Hello, I am looking for the part number for the hurst competition plus shifter installation kit for a 67 mustang 390 car. I looked it up on the mr. gasket site, and they listed three different kits for that application, but I know at least one of them is incorrect, as its for the small block- unless they are interchangeable! If any one has the right number, I sure would appreciate it! Thanks!
nick
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24681&Reply=24675><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>I think you should start by calling Hurst&trade; Tech Support...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://go.mrgasket.com/AskTechFormHurstShifters.aspx?BrandID=2&BrandSelection=5">http://go.mrgasket.com/AskTechFormHurstShifters.aspx?BrandID=2&BrandSelection=5</a> </blockquote> I think you should start by calling Hurst™ Tech Support... -- Mr F, 04/24/2005
http://go.mrgasket.com/AskTechFormHurstShifters.aspx?BrandID=2&BrandSelection=5
 RE: I think you should start by calling Hurst™ Tech Support... -- BB67FB, 04/25/2005
Hey thanks mr. F thats a good idea. Should have thought of it myself!
 RE: Hurst shifter part # question -- mike, 04/26/2005
the mustang unlimited catalog has it as # 3735587 which I hope is the right one because that is what I have on my box for my 69 428 toploder.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24672&Reply=24672><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 clutch and pressure plate</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dusty, <i>04/23/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>i'm about to put my 390 back into my mustang but one of the things that i don't know what to go with is what kind of clutch and pressure plate. if it was a stock engine then i would go with cluth and preasure plate. but i put it together with comp cam 280H cam, edelbrock performer rpm fe intake, hooker super comp headers, and along with all the small internal parts to keep it together. now my basicly is, is a stock cluth and preasure plate be enough or do i need to upgrade to something like a centerforce. i used to have a borg-beck and it held fine before but, thats when it was stock. thanks for your advice </blockquote> 390 clutch and pressure plate -- Dusty, 04/23/2005
i'm about to put my 390 back into my mustang but one of the things that i don't know what to go with is what kind of clutch and pressure plate. if it was a stock engine then i would go with cluth and preasure plate. but i put it together with comp cam 280H cam, edelbrock performer rpm fe intake, hooker super comp headers, and along with all the small internal parts to keep it together. now my basicly is, is a stock cluth and preasure plate be enough or do i need to upgrade to something like a centerforce. i used to have a borg-beck and it held fine before but, thats when it was stock. thanks for your advice
 RE: 390 clutch and pressure plate -- giacamo, 04/23/2005
centerforce is my pick, thay work great and are easy on the clutch linkage.i used long style centrifuugal sensitive and long style static setups befor. for high rpm i use the static style setups, the centrifugal setups mostof the times make it hard to hit the gears at hi rpms 7000+ but for streat use centerforce is hard to beat.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24660&Reply=24660><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>302 boss</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rolandogarza, <i>04/22/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi, i am looking for a 302boss to fix. if anyone can tell me where to buy one i would be greatful. Or can i make one, thanks for the help. i have a 1970  mustang, that was rebulit, by a company in cal. all i know that its a long block, according to the recipt,  but it very fast, and sounds mean. the intake has a tag and #s and says 289, weird, but i dont know much about engines, again thanks  </blockquote> 302 boss -- Rolandogarza, 04/22/2005
Hi, i am looking for a 302boss to fix. if anyone can tell me where to buy one i would be greatful. Or can i make one, thanks for the help. i have a 1970 mustang, that was rebulit, by a company in cal. all i know that its a long block, according to the recipt, but it very fast, and sounds mean. the intake has a tag and #s and says 289, weird, but i dont know much about engines, again thanks
 RE: 302 boss -- Royce, 04/22/2005
http://www.boss302.com/board/forumdisplay.php3?FID=2
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24647&Reply=24647><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Oil pan compatability</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob S., <i>04/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Will an oil pan from a 73 351 Windsor marry to a 67 289? </blockquote> Oil pan compatability -- Bob S., 04/21/2005
Will an oil pan from a 73 351 Windsor marry to a 67 289?
 RE: Oil pan compatability -- giacamo, 04/21/2005
sorry but no. a 302 will though.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24653&Reply=24647><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Oil pan compatability</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>04/22/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>no the main bearing sizes are different,make the end lips of the oil pan different </blockquote> RE: Oil pan compatability -- walt, 04/22/2005
no the main bearing sizes are different,make the end lips of the oil pan different
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24683&Reply=24647><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Oil pan compatability</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>04/24/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>i should have said the rear main saddle is larger </blockquote> RE: Oil pan compatability -- walt, 04/24/2005
i should have said the rear main saddle is larger
 Walt is correct. N/M -- Royce, 04/24/2005
N/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24646&Reply=24646><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>351 W Head problem update</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob S., <i>04/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>OK, so, we pulled the head, replaced seals and checked the guides, all are ok.  Replaced the head, intake and waited 24hrs.  Fed water to the block which held (good first sign), then started the motor.  We expected to see smoke coming out of the right bank due to the previous start and subsequent oil problems.  It did smoke and continued to smoke.  Then, again, oil out of number 4 beneath the header gasket.  Oil also spattering out of the header collecter and tailpipe.  So...while running the car, there is no vacuum from the valve covers which means that our intake gasket is seated correctly, we do however get a slightly greater than expected positive pressure from both valve covers.  I called Mac's auto parts in Lockport NY and a guy there said it sounds like a cracked cylinder head.  Now, I didn't inspect the head with any great dilligence prior to the most recent install, so I can't be certain.  Does anyone else have any ideas on what could be causing this oil problem in #4?<br><br>Thanks </blockquote> 351 W Head problem update -- Bob S., 04/21/2005
OK, so, we pulled the head, replaced seals and checked the guides, all are ok. Replaced the head, intake and waited 24hrs. Fed water to the block which held (good first sign), then started the motor. We expected to see smoke coming out of the right bank due to the previous start and subsequent oil problems. It did smoke and continued to smoke. Then, again, oil out of number 4 beneath the header gasket. Oil also spattering out of the header collecter and tailpipe. So...while running the car, there is no vacuum from the valve covers which means that our intake gasket is seated correctly, we do however get a slightly greater than expected positive pressure from both valve covers. I called Mac's auto parts in Lockport NY and a guy there said it sounds like a cracked cylinder head. Now, I didn't inspect the head with any great dilligence prior to the most recent install, so I can't be certain. Does anyone else have any ideas on what could be causing this oil problem in #4?

Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24649&Reply=24646><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351 W Head problem update</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>04/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>sounds  like maybe the rings take a old sparkplug and bust the core out of it weld a air fitting to it inject air into the supected cilinder and lissen to the valve covers carb and exaust i,d supect you,d hear air from the valve covers leaking by the rings. did #4 have any lines on the cilender? if the gides looked ok i,d supect the rings? </blockquote> RE: 351 W Head problem update -- giacamo, 04/21/2005
sounds like maybe the rings take a old sparkplug and bust the core out of it weld a air fitting to it inject air into the supected cilinder and lissen to the valve covers carb and exaust i,d supect you,d hear air from the valve covers leaking by the rings. did #4 have any lines on the cilender? if the gides looked ok i,d supect the rings?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24650&Reply=24646><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351 W Head problem update</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob S., <i>04/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I don't think a ring problemm would be responsible for the amount of oil I'm getting.  I'm getting alot of oil.  If it was a lesser amount of oil, I may lean to the ring issue.  You saw my other post, I'm thinking of swapping this motor out for a rebuilt 289, before I rename the car Christine.  I have a spark plug fitting for my compressor, but I'm not sure I want to go through having the one head gone through....magnaflux etc. I don't have any details on this motor other than what I've done to it, so other things could go wrong this summer... </blockquote> RE: 351 W Head problem update -- Bob S., 04/21/2005
I don't think a ring problemm would be responsible for the amount of oil I'm getting. I'm getting alot of oil. If it was a lesser amount of oil, I may lean to the ring issue. You saw my other post, I'm thinking of swapping this motor out for a rebuilt 289, before I rename the car Christine. I have a spark plug fitting for my compressor, but I'm not sure I want to go through having the one head gone through....magnaflux etc. I don't have any details on this motor other than what I've done to it, so other things could go wrong this summer...
 RE: 351 W Head problem update -- giacamo, 04/21/2005
rings will pump alot of oil depending what,s wroung with them i have a 292 v8 with #6 pumping oil in my shop right now the engin was over heated and #6 cilinder looks ok but i supect wen i pull the pistons out the rings have lost thear temper and i can problie trist them into a pretsel with out breaking them i,m thinking i can hone rering bearing and check the heads out and get it back to runing order with out a big expence. but i,d look at the rings my two cents?
 RE: 351 W Head problem update -- walt, 04/22/2005
there is a big diff in small block ford head gaskets,make sure you got the ones for a 351 w,will not accept 289/302 gaskets on a 351,slight water passage difs
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24641&Reply=24641><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Tunnel Port  Carbs</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>phil, <i>04/20/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ok Guys, Ive got an 8V, 4V,and 4V Dominator flanged intakes for my Tunnel Port heads. Which are the correct carbs for these intakes?  </blockquote> Tunnel Port Carbs -- phil, 04/20/2005
Ok Guys, Ive got an 8V, 4V,and 4V Dominator flanged intakes for my Tunnel Port heads. Which are the correct carbs for these intakes?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24645&Reply=24641><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Tunnel Port  Carbs</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce, <i>04/21/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>8V = C8AF-AC and C8AF-AD. These carbs don't have power valves and are rotten on the street unless you use different primary metering blocks with power valves. I think the only way a tunnel port wa ever sold was in parts so there really are not any original carbs per se.<br><br>The 4V and Dominator flanges I would think about using one of the Holley HP series carbs with vacuum secondary if this is a street driven vehicle. The dominator flange I am guessing must be a Dove intake, don't recall ever seeing an original one.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> RE: Tunnel Port Carbs -- Royce, 04/21/2005
8V = C8AF-AC and C8AF-AD. These carbs don't have power valves and are rotten on the street unless you use different primary metering blocks with power valves. I think the only way a tunnel port wa ever sold was in parts so there really are not any original carbs per se.

The 4V and Dominator flanges I would think about using one of the Holley HP series carbs with vacuum secondary if this is a street driven vehicle. The dominator flange I am guessing must be a Dove intake, don't recall ever seeing an original one.

Royce
 RE: Tunnel Port Carbs -- walt, 04/22/2005
they were nascar carbs,high rpm,sustained only,royce is right about them,i put some 3310-1 780'swith the short fuel bowls on the carbs,with a balance tube between the secondaries,on the vacuum actuators,worked great
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24662&Reply=24641><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Tunnel Port  Carbs</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>phil, <i>04/22/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Royce, Did Buddy Bar cast intakes for Dove? The one I have has the firing order, Buddy Bar casting, but no Ford markings. It has oblong aluminum pushrod tubes welded to the runners. Any ideas? </blockquote> RE: Tunnel Port Carbs -- phil, 04/22/2005
Royce, Did Buddy Bar cast intakes for Dove? The one I have has the firing order, Buddy Bar casting, but no Ford markings. It has oblong aluminum pushrod tubes welded to the runners. Any ideas?
 RE: Tunnel Port Carbs -- walt, 04/23/2005
buddy bar did a lot of specialty castings for ford,i got a tunnel port "XE" manifold,heads,no part numbers,but my boss 302,shows buddy bar,and the part number on the intake,ps he only cast aluminum stuff
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24669&Reply=24641><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Probably not Dove</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce, <i>04/23/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>There were Nascar tunnel port intakes like you have, made by a couple different companies. An interesting piece, not sure if I would recommend using it unless you plan on driving at a steady 7600 RPM all afternoon. <br><br>Royce </blockquote> Probably not Dove -- Royce, 04/23/2005
There were Nascar tunnel port intakes like you have, made by a couple different companies. An interesting piece, not sure if I would recommend using it unless you plan on driving at a steady 7600 RPM all afternoon.

Royce
 RE: Probably not Dove -- Phil, 04/23/2005
No Royce, I wont be running that one on the street. Maybe an 05 tube frame Mustang drag car.
 RE: Probably not Dove -- walt, 04/27/2005
yep,some had cast push rod tubes,some were pressed in,i got a rare daul plne 8v to make mine streetable,but i did keep the 8v single plane when i deciede to loose my sanity
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24638&Reply=24638><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Rocker arm nut torque specs</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob S., <i>04/19/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>73 351W, Does anyone have the torque specs on this motor for the Rocker arm nuts?  They are non adjustable and I can feel them hit the shoulder, howerver I am sure there is a torque spec, but I can't locate it in Chiltons'<br><br>Thanks,<br>Bob </blockquote> Rocker arm nut torque specs -- Bob S., 04/19/2005
73 351W, Does anyone have the torque specs on this motor for the Rocker arm nuts? They are non adjustable and I can feel them hit the shoulder, howerver I am sure there is a torque spec, but I can't locate it in Chiltons'

Thanks,
Bob
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=24639&Reply=24638><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>18-20ftlbs</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>04/19/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>after nut contacts shoulder </blockquote> 18-20ftlbs -- raycfe, 04/19/2005
after nut contacts shoulder
 RE: 18-20ftlbs -- Bob S., 04/19/2005
Thanks
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