These are the old FoMoCo Obsolete Forums and are being hosted by JCOConsulting.com. While you're here, check out my articles or have a look around at some of the Ford Stuff we have for sale. You might find something you can't live without.

Skip Navigation Links.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25691&Reply=25691><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Transmission</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>08/31/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1969 Mach1 R_Code.  The transmission tag reads RUGAE2, and there is a number below this 011739.  Is this # a partial VIN??  Most sites call this a serial #, does this mean VIN #?  It does not match my VIN#.<br>Thanks<br>Charlie </blockquote> Transmission -- Charlie, 08/31/2005
I have a 1969 Mach1 R_Code. The transmission tag reads RUGAE2, and there is a number below this 011739. Is this # a partial VIN?? Most sites call this a serial #, does this mean VIN #? It does not match my VIN#.
Thanks
Charlie
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25693&Reply=25691><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Its a sequential ID #; no known correlation to the VIN. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>08/31/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Its a sequential ID #; no known correlation to the VIN. [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/31/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25697&Reply=25691><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Its a sequential ID #; no known correlation ...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>08/31/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Mr F.  I think this means I have the original Transmission.<br><br>Are there two parts to the transmission?  I have part # C8AR-7008-D (orO) on the front part near shifter, and in the back where it meets the driveshaft, Part # C7OR-7A040-A.<br><br>Whats up with this? </blockquote> RE: Its a sequential ID #; no known correlation ... -- Charlie, 08/31/2005
Thanks Mr F. I think this means I have the original Transmission.

Are there two parts to the transmission? I have part # C8AR-7008-D (orO) on the front part near shifter, and in the back where it meets the driveshaft, Part # C7OR-7A040-A.

Whats up with this?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25690&Reply=25690><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 CJ Identification</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>08/31/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can anyone point me to sources to assist in identifying whether I have the original 428 CJ in the 1969 Mach1 I just purchased.  I have read the 428 Registry site.  I have correct date code 8K30, and it is definitley a big block.  I think it has the correct intake C8OE-9425-C with good date code 8K26.  Marti report has my car built on Nov 25, 1968.  I can not find any casting on the passanger side block.  I can not find any VIN on the small pad on the block behind cyl#8.  I do see some worn out #'s (too hard to read) on the head just above this pad.  Some of them I can see do match my VIN if i squint and dream enough.  I only mention this because the registry site said some 428CJ had the VIN on the head, a mistake?<br>Atthis point I do not know if I even have a 428?  How do I tell without ripping it appart?<br>Help is greatly appreciated. </blockquote> 428 CJ Identification -- Charlie, 08/31/2005
Can anyone point me to sources to assist in identifying whether I have the original 428 CJ in the 1969 Mach1 I just purchased. I have read the 428 Registry site. I have correct date code 8K30, and it is definitley a big block. I think it has the correct intake C8OE-9425-C with good date code 8K26. Marti report has my car built on Nov 25, 1968. I can not find any casting on the passanger side block. I can not find any VIN on the small pad on the block behind cyl#8. I do see some worn out #'s (too hard to read) on the head just above this pad. Some of them I can see do match my VIN if i squint and dream enough. I only mention this because the registry site said some 428CJ had the VIN on the head, a mistake?
Atthis point I do not know if I even have a 428? How do I tell without ripping it appart?
Help is greatly appreciated.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25695&Reply=25690><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Read this related response, plus the whole thread...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>08/31/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=205466&Reply=205463">http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=205466&Reply=205463</a> </blockquote> Read this related response, plus the whole thread... -- Mr F, 08/31/2005
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=205466&Reply=205463
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25699&Reply=25690><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Read this related response, plus the whole thread...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charlie, <i>08/31/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks Mr F.  After reading this very helpful link, I have come to the following conclusion:  1. After 1968, many FE blocks did not have casting numbers, which would be on block, in front of the starter.  I cant find one.<br>2. On most, but not all blocks, there was a partial VIN stamped on the small pad just below head line on rear of engine , cyl #8.  I do not see any # on my block, have checked with mirror and can see while underneath car.  Still want to wipe more paint off to be 100% sure, but at this point no partial VIN on my engine.<br>3. On some 428 CJ's, the stamper made a mistake and stamped the back of the head near cyl #8 instead on small pad.  I definetley see #'s there, but real hard to read, not stamped to well.  At this point I definetley see the last # is a 7 and the 2nd # may be a T, which agrees with my VIN.  But, this would just mean I have the original heads, wouldn't it??<br>4.  The date code is just below the starter, which I have validated is 26 days prior to my build date, GOOD NEWS!  There is also an "E1" just above the date code, and a "V" above and to the left.  Does this help further ID?<br>5.  There is a "C" welded or somehow attached to the rear of  ALL??  428 CJ's, but you need to pull the engine.<br>6. I have read that a "428" can be seen on some CJ's inside the water jacket, not sure wher this is or if worth looking for if rare.  I this behind the water pump??<br>7. On the 428 registry site, <a href="http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-block.html">http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-block.html</a> ,  it shiws two bolts near the oil pan.  Is this another way to ID as a 428??  Are these on both sides?  I have found 2 bolt holes (bolts missing) near the oil pan on the passenger siide.  Will check other side today.  Any clue on this piece of information?<br>8. I am also trying to trace back the ownership.  Probablly hard, but have already spoken to the 2 previous owners (to about 1996) and they claim they think and were told it is original engine, but they could never ID.<br><br>At this point, any comments on above or additional data is appreciated.  I may have a 390 and not even know it.<br>Charlie </blockquote> RE: Read this related response, plus the whole thread... -- Charlie, 08/31/2005
Thanks Mr F. After reading this very helpful link, I have come to the following conclusion: 1. After 1968, many FE blocks did not have casting numbers, which would be on block, in front of the starter. I cant find one.
2. On most, but not all blocks, there was a partial VIN stamped on the small pad just below head line on rear of engine , cyl #8. I do not see any # on my block, have checked with mirror and can see while underneath car. Still want to wipe more paint off to be 100% sure, but at this point no partial VIN on my engine.
3. On some 428 CJ's, the stamper made a mistake and stamped the back of the head near cyl #8 instead on small pad. I definetley see #'s there, but real hard to read, not stamped to well. At this point I definetley see the last # is a 7 and the 2nd # may be a T, which agrees with my VIN. But, this would just mean I have the original heads, wouldn't it??
4. The date code is just below the starter, which I have validated is 26 days prior to my build date, GOOD NEWS! There is also an "E1" just above the date code, and a "V" above and to the left. Does this help further ID?
5. There is a "C" welded or somehow attached to the rear of ALL?? 428 CJ's, but you need to pull the engine.
6. I have read that a "428" can be seen on some CJ's inside the water jacket, not sure wher this is or if worth looking for if rare. I this behind the water pump??
7. On the 428 registry site, http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-block.html , it shiws two bolts near the oil pan. Is this another way to ID as a 428?? Are these on both sides? I have found 2 bolt holes (bolts missing) near the oil pan on the passenger siide. Will check other side today. Any clue on this piece of information?
8. I am also trying to trace back the ownership. Probablly hard, but have already spoken to the 2 previous owners (to about 1996) and they claim they think and were told it is original engine, but they could never ID.

At this point, any comments on above or additional data is appreciated. I may have a 390 and not even know it.
Charlie
 Given the block's casting-date, odds are it is the original. [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/31/2005
n/m
 Meanwhile, skip #6 & you've got the basics down, pat. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/31/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25719&Reply=25690><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Read this related response, plus the whole thread...</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim, <i>09/02/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Sounds like you've done some good homework on Identifying that engine.  I did notice your car was built 25 NOv and your intake is dated a day later on NOv 26.  BUT, sometimes (often) cars were not completed on schedule For example, mine was scheduled for completino on 10/17/68 but wasn't actually completed until 11/21/68 - over a month late.  So depending on the actual completion date, your intake may/may not be correct.  I suppose you already know to check for a "C" on back and the reinforced main webbing by the crank, there may also be a 428 cast in the freeze plug hole as well, but none of these are easy to check for.  </blockquote> RE: Read this related response, plus the whole thread... -- Tim, 09/02/2005
Sounds like you've done some good homework on Identifying that engine. I did notice your car was built 25 NOv and your intake is dated a day later on NOv 26. BUT, sometimes (often) cars were not completed on schedule For example, mine was scheduled for completino on 10/17/68 but wasn't actually completed until 11/21/68 - over a month late. So depending on the actual completion date, your intake may/may not be correct. I suppose you already know to check for a "C" on back and the reinforced main webbing by the crank, there may also be a 428 cast in the freeze plug hole as well, but none of these are easy to check for.
 RE: Read this related response, plus the whole thread... -- Charlie, 09/02/2005
Thanks Tim. I did read about these and unless I have to pull engine i may never know if C is on back. The date code on my intake is 8K26, which is Oct 26, 1968, they do not use I. So between the intake and the Block, I feel good about engine being original. I will check heads soon. I am alslo contacting prior owners via History check.
Charlie
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25685&Reply=25685><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Cobra 428 PI Firing Order</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bob, <i>08/30/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Can someone e-mail me a diagram of the firing order showing the distributor to cylinder plug wires.  I think my kids screwed mine up.  Need to check the plug wire hook ups.  Thank you, Bob </blockquote> Cobra 428 PI Firing Order -- Bob, 08/30/2005
Can someone e-mail me a diagram of the firing order showing the distributor to cylinder plug wires. I think my kids screwed mine up. Need to check the plug wire hook ups. Thank you, Bob
 15426378 -- Royce P, 08/30/2005
Counterclockwise rotation.
 Help on my Eldelbrock Heads -- John C, 08/29/2005
Gents, I have a 390 that I'm rebuilding. I'll be running a Crane hydraulic roller cam and lifters. I'm also installing a set of Edelbrock aluminum heads, RPM Performer intake and will be using a set of factory style adjustable rockers with ARP rocker studs. The question is in regards to the heads. What do I need to do to address oil build up under the valve covers? I understand that there needs to be some drilling? I also need an education on oil restrictors. What exactly does this mean? Heck, I'm just plain green. I also need some advise on the rocker stands. Will I need additional end supports and if so, what are some options? Those shock towers make things miserable so I want it right the first time. Thanks, John C.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25678&Reply=25678><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Yet another 427 ID question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>JL, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Guy has a supposed 427 here for sale for $2,500. It is a complete engine but with no intake but does have the crossbolt mains. He says it has highriser heads. It has 66-427 cast into the back of the block. I don't have numbers or pics till Thursday when I go to look at it.  It came out of a Cougar Eliminator even though it was not the original engine. What is the best way to postively ID the engine as a true 427 before I wind up buying a 390 in disguise. Or even to ID what it really IS? I see so many conflicting pieces of info on this subject. What is the real 411?   </blockquote> Yet another 427 ID question -- JL, 08/29/2005
Guy has a supposed 427 here for sale for $2,500. It is a complete engine but with no intake but does have the crossbolt mains. He says it has highriser heads. It has 66-427 cast into the back of the block. I don't have numbers or pics till Thursday when I go to look at it. It came out of a Cougar Eliminator even though it was not the original engine. What is the best way to postively ID the engine as a true 427 before I wind up buying a 390 in disguise. Or even to ID what it really IS? I see so many conflicting pieces of info on this subject. What is the real 411?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25679&Reply=25678><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Bring someone with you that knows what to expect.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>There are a half dozen varieties of 427 and no easy way to type a full set of instructions on what to expect. You need to bring someone with you who knows.<br><br>Royce </blockquote> Bring someone with you that knows what to expect. -- Royce P, 08/29/2005
There are a half dozen varieties of 427 and no easy way to type a full set of instructions on what to expect. You need to bring someone with you who knows.

Royce
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25681&Reply=25678><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Bring someone with you that knows what to expect.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>JL, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Easier said than done! There are no local experts that are going to be interested in driving the 45 minutes to see the engine. So what then??  </blockquote> RE: Bring someone with you that knows what to expect. -- JL, 08/29/2005
Easier said than done! There are no local experts that are going to be interested in driving the 45 minutes to see the engine. So what then??
 Take some photos and post them on-line, for us to see. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/31/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25675&Reply=25675><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>bb tripower</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tony, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have an old BB Ford tripower on ebay, I keep getting asked what it fits and i don't know. Can anyone tell me? item #4571651956 </blockquote> bb tripower -- Tony, 08/29/2005
I have an old BB Ford tripower on ebay, I keep getting asked what it fits and i don't know. Can anyone tell me? item #4571651956
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25676&Reply=25675><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: bb tripower</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>McQ, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>The FE Ford tri power was introduced in April, 1961, intended for the High Performance 390 which was rated at 375 horses.  The tri power bumped that rating to 401.  The same triple Holley, mechanical linkage system, continued to see use, factory installed, on the 406 for '62 and early to mid '63.    The intake manifold carb bases are "stacked", lowest on first base, going up a little to the back, 3rd carb base.<br><br>There was a '62 or '63 T-bird 390 tri power option that I don't know a lot about except to be able to identify the intake where all the carburetor bases are level.<br><br>The tri power "system" continued to be offered over-the-counter, advertised in Ford High Performance parts manuals, through 1967.  The intake should only be used with C8OE-N(Cobra Jet), C6AE-R and older heads.  There's a poor match up with the C7AE, C8AE, D2T short intake port heads.<br><br>That's about all I can think of right now.  I've used the tri power system and will continue to use it. </blockquote> RE: bb tripower -- McQ, 08/29/2005
The FE Ford tri power was introduced in April, 1961, intended for the High Performance 390 which was rated at 375 horses. The tri power bumped that rating to 401. The same triple Holley, mechanical linkage system, continued to see use, factory installed, on the 406 for '62 and early to mid '63. The intake manifold carb bases are "stacked", lowest on first base, going up a little to the back, 3rd carb base.

There was a '62 or '63 T-bird 390 tri power option that I don't know a lot about except to be able to identify the intake where all the carburetor bases are level.

The tri power "system" continued to be offered over-the-counter, advertised in Ford High Performance parts manuals, through 1967. The intake should only be used with C8OE-N(Cobra Jet), C6AE-R and older heads. There's a poor match up with the C7AE, C8AE, D2T short intake port heads.

That's about all I can think of right now. I've used the tri power system and will continue to use it.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25682&Reply=25675><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: bb tripower</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BB67FB, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I read somewhere that for a mustang application you must use the T-bird intake. I want to use a tri power in my 67 mustang. is this true? thanks </blockquote> RE: bb tripower -- BB67FB, 08/29/2005
I read somewhere that for a mustang application you must use the T-bird intake. I want to use a tri power in my 67 mustang. is this true? thanks
 RE: bb tripower -- McQ, 08/30/2005
I had always thought it was an easy bolt on for the Mustang 390. However, I learned from this forum that a modification to the original Ford tri power air cleaner is necessary. There's apparently interference between the firewall & the back of the air cleaner. What the mod is, I'm not sure because I've not actually done it. There's no interference problems with the Fairlane/Torino big blocks.

I don't think you need to use the "Flat" t-bird intake for any special reason. I know the "stacked" tri power works fine on the FE in unibody cars.

Again, the main concern is which heads you're using. If you've got the C7AE & newer heads....you won't want the mismatch created when bolting the tall port tri power intake on.
 Yes...T-bird intake will fit. Its the full-size intake that's trouble. [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/30/2005
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25667&Reply=25667><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>weird date codes on FE block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have an FE block with weird date codes that are really boggling my brain. I am just a newbie so please pardon my ignorance. I hope there is someone that can answer my question on this matter. I have a FE block with date codes that reads as such :<br>1st line " E 1 "<br>2nd line " 1 M 18 " but the " 1" has two balls under it.<br><br>What does this mean? Is it some kind of special cast or just a defect in the casting. I can supply a pic upon request<br><br>[Edited for clarity by Admin.] </blockquote> weird date codes on FE block -- John, 08/29/2005
I have an FE block with weird date codes that are really boggling my brain. I am just a newbie so please pardon my ignorance. I hope there is someone that can answer my question on this matter. I have a FE block with date codes that reads as such :
1st line " E 1 "
2nd line " 1 M 18 " but the " 1" has two balls under it.

What does this mean? Is it some kind of special cast or just a defect in the casting. I can supply a pic upon request

[Edited for clarity by Admin.]
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25672&Reply=25667><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: weird date codes on FE block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>1M18 is either <br>1961 / December / 18 or<br>1971 / December / 18<br>If the block has two motor mount holes it is a 1961 unit.<br><br>If the block has four motor mount holes it is a 1971 unit.<br><br>The other mark (E1) is indicating which foundry line cast the block. The date codes were there to help in case a defect surfaced during machineing operations created a need to find other blocks with similar defects. </blockquote> RE: weird date codes on FE block -- Royce P, 08/29/2005
1M18 is either
1961 / December / 18 or
1971 / December / 18
If the block has two motor mount holes it is a 1961 unit.

If the block has four motor mount holes it is a 1971 unit.

The other mark (E1) is indicating which foundry line cast the block. The date codes were there to help in case a defect surfaced during machineing operations created a need to find other blocks with similar defects.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25674&Reply=25667><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: weird date codes on FE block</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John, <i>08/29/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>thanx for your insight Royce, you have been a great help,.been trying to find that date out now for about two months. </blockquote> RE: weird date codes on FE block -- John, 08/29/2005
thanx for your insight Royce, you have been a great help,.been trying to find that date out now for about two months.
 The two dots under the 1 indicate 1971 -- Hawkrod, 08/30/2005
Ford added the dots sometime in late 69 or early 70 but did not always use them. The lack of dots proves nothing but the presence indicates a 1970 or newer part. Hawkrod
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25666&Reply=25666><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>C4AE-G heads and 2.09 & 1.65 valves?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>KSKI, <i>08/28/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I just can't stop checking out this awesome forum. You guys really know your FE's in and out! Here goes a whole lot of questions!<br><br>I've got C4AE-G heads and would like to have 2.09 & 1.65 valves put in, than port & polish the heads for better flow. Is this valve change possible with these heads, and would it be worth my effort,  power wise?<br><br>How close will C4AE-G intake ports match up to the Performer RPM intake manifold ports, I will most likely port match them, just asking?<br><br>My engine is a 390, .030" over, I'm pretty sure the larger valves should clear the deck of the block with .544" valve lift, and I'd still would like to stay with my non-adjustable rocker setup, is this possible to stay non-adjustable rockers with a .544" lift hydraulic cam?<br><br>Back to the non-adjustable rockers, what are these stronger rocker end stands you guys are always talking about, and where do you buy them? And should I stay with the rocker stand bolts, or buy a stud and nut set up?<br><br>That about does it, THANKS for your replys ! </blockquote> C4AE-G heads and 2.09 & 1.65 valves? -- KSKI, 08/28/2005
I just can't stop checking out this awesome forum. You guys really know your FE's in and out! Here goes a whole lot of questions!

I've got C4AE-G heads and would like to have 2.09 & 1.65 valves put in, than port & polish the heads for better flow. Is this valve change possible with these heads, and would it be worth my effort, power wise?

How close will C4AE-G intake ports match up to the Performer RPM intake manifold ports, I will most likely port match them, just asking?

My engine is a 390, .030" over, I'm pretty sure the larger valves should clear the deck of the block with .544" valve lift, and I'd still would like to stay with my non-adjustable rocker setup, is this possible to stay non-adjustable rockers with a .544" lift hydraulic cam?

Back to the non-adjustable rockers, what are these stronger rocker end stands you guys are always talking about, and where do you buy them? And should I stay with the rocker stand bolts, or buy a stud and nut set up?

That about does it, THANKS for your replys !
 RE: C4AE-G heads and 2.09 & 1.65 valves? -- giacamo, 08/30/2005
if you use the biger valves i,d noch the block to promote a littel bit better breathing.on your cam i,d call the cam grinder and use what thay say to use, any fe i am going to race i,d use the cast iron or milled steal rocker stands the alum ones wont last and toss the springs spacers on the rocker bars and get the solid spacers to keap things alined, and i,d tos the stock two pice spring retainers and use the one pice tipe i have a coupel of friends that swear by the rpm intake never used one but looked at one and you might haft to hog it out pretty thin to mach the ports to thouse heads. i use stock intakes and try to keep things looking stock on the outside.what is your bild for? a 544 lift cam is large for streat use and in a 390 it will put your power up in the high rpm range
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25663&Reply=25663><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>pcv</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gary goblirsch, <i>08/28/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hello <br> Anyone know where one might find an open system pcv that was used on 427,406#6a633,6a631,6a632,6a665,6758,6a706 I would like to install this on my 1964 galaxie. I have a new blue thunder intake with this style of pcv.<br>Gary </blockquote> pcv -- gary goblirsch, 08/28/2005
Hello
Anyone know where one might find an open system pcv that was used on 427,406#6a633,6a631,6a632,6a665,6758,6a706 I would like to install this on my 1964 galaxie. I have a new blue thunder intake with this style of pcv.
Gary
 RE: pcv -- glennzamp, 08/29/2005
is this similar to the system used on as 64 galaxie 390, it had large hose that attached twords back of motor, can't remember at this moment if it attached at back of motor or intake, i have a system that was taken off of a 64 galaxie recently when intake was replaced with newer style, i can take pics if need be, if this is the correct pieces, whatare they worth,

glenn z
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25656&Reply=25656><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Drive shaft comparison?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Peter M, <i>08/27/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Anyone know if a drive shaft from a 1969 Torino with the 428cj, C6, 9" Is the same spec's as one from a 1969 Mach 1 428cj with C6, 9"?<br><br>Thanks!<br><br>Peter<br>9R02R<br>WT 7034 Green.  </blockquote> Drive shaft comparison? -- Peter M, 08/27/2005
Anyone know if a drive shaft from a 1969 Torino with the 428cj, C6, 9" Is the same spec's as one from a 1969 Mach 1 428cj with C6, 9"?

Thanks!

Peter
9R02R
WT 7034 Green.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25658&Reply=25656><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 C6 driveshaft length.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>08/27/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>69 Fairlane  C8OZ-4602-B  54 inchs<br>69 mustang C8ZZ-45602-C 46 19/32 inchs<br>both should have same yokes, joints, etc.<br>Fairlane should be 7 13/32 inchs longer. </blockquote> 428 C6 driveshaft length. -- raycfe, 08/27/2005
69 Fairlane C8OZ-4602-B 54 inchs
69 mustang C8ZZ-45602-C 46 19/32 inchs
both should have same yokes, joints, etc.
Fairlane should be 7 13/32 inchs longer.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25659&Reply=25656><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Great Info,</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Peter M, <i>08/27/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Ray, I have a shaft from the Mustang, but I've been told that the Cj drive shafts have a tappere ends nera the front and rear okes, and are 3" n diam?<br><br>Regards<br>Peter. </blockquote> Great Info, -- Peter M, 08/27/2005
Ray, I have a shaft from the Mustang, but I've been told that the Cj drive shafts have a tappere ends nera the front and rear okes, and are 3" n diam?

Regards
Peter.
 The parts book -- raycfe, 08/27/2005
says 3 1/2. I have seen both. Save your ends and have a new tube installed by a driveshaft shop.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25661&Reply=25656><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>You might want to look here.......</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce P, <i>08/27/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote><a href="http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-driveshaft.html">http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-driveshaft.html</a> </blockquote> You might want to look here....... -- Royce P, 08/27/2005
http://www.428cobrajet.org/id-driveshaft.html
 Thats what I was looking for. -- raycfe, 08/28/2005
Knew I saw it somewhere. Thanks Royce
Go to the top of this page
Go back one page Back    Next Go forward one page

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60