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 |  if enough ask Jerry, maybe he will do the story -- mikeb, 04/22/2001
on the CJFAIRLANE/TORINO half of the drag team.
His e-mail address is cobra2549@aol.com
I got his e-mail address out of Mustangs &Fords magazine.
Thanks to all that will help. |
 | Block id -- Louie, 04/21/2001
I picked up a std 360 last week and just got it back from cleaning. There are no engineering/casting # on it so I was hoping someone has seen one before. Supposedly came from a truck.
Front - facing the front, on the right, there is the '352' with '81' cast below it. On the lower right there is a '7' and a '2' stamped on the block.
Back - Upside down '352' and '46' cast. There are two horozontial hash marks on either side.
Inside the valley - there are numbers painted by each cylinder. 1-4 2-4 3-5 4-5 5-5 6-5 7-5 8-5 (cyl grading?) By #5 there is a '63' cast into the block.
Outside - External ribs. By #5 there is '46 DIF' cast. An 8 is stamped on the adapter pad. Oil pump pad has a H stamped. Date tag of 1025.
Bottom - On the back ears, right side has a '2' stamped, left has an 'M'.
There are 4 bolt holes for the motor mounts per side. On the right side there is a boss (7/16) behind the mount that points out parallel to the ground (when installed). Main webbing is 3/4' wide.
Something else. The valley is such a shiny silver that it looks as if someone polished it.
I would assume that with the ribbing on the outside it probably was a later casting.
|
 | 428 Pistons -- Kam, 04/21/2001
Has anyone tried 400 Pontiac pistons in a 428? Silvolite #1526 +.030 looks like it has possibilities.
Bore 4.15, comp. ht. 1.7, wrist pin .9805, -10cc.
Pin retainer grooves cut, or buttons in the wrist pin ends could be used to fine tune balance.
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|  | RE: 428 Pistons -- eric, 04/21/2001
I believe there are silvolites available in a .020 over for the 428. Actually I know they are available...I talked to KB about them. A .020 over 428 piston would have a 4.15 bore just as the .030 over Potiac 400 does. |
| Shell vs. Dumb bell lifters? -- Mike McQuesten, 04/20/2001
I've been considering using the shell style lifters in my 427. I know that Ford/Holman-Moody used them with what was called a High Rev Kit. This is from memory here so help me out. Currently Crane and Comp offer the shell lifters. But I've also heard that because of the required longer push rod there is more deflection and thus more chance for bent push rod(s). Are the Crane/Comp corresponding pushrods, the hollow & hardened type? The original long pushrods with shell lifters, which were standard Ford equipment in the early '58 352/332, are skinny things. I've got a complete early '52 PI, solid lifter, machined c - chambers. It had been sitting not running in a '58 Wagon since '67. Sure enough #5 exhaust pushrod was in the shape of an S when I tore it down. My 427 has a Comp 282S with the dumb bell standard solid lifters. I haven't fired it yet, haven't even got the intake on yet, but was just thinking about the shells with good pushrods. Any benefits to running these? I'm expecting 6,200 maximum RPM with this cam. Thanks for your thoughts? |
| overdrivetranny on Ebay -- T1M, 04/19/2001
I have a 68' Galaxie 500 with a 390 and a C-6 but I would really like to have an overdrive as well. How much durability would I compromise by purchasing this overdrive tranny off of Ebay and transplanting the C-6 with it?
 |
| | the ad read... -- T1M, 04/19/2001
for this tranny, the ad on Ebay read:
This is an overdrive tranny that fits any of the big block Fords and should fit the small blocks as well.The tag says (Ford HEK-X) The case #T86-AA1- I can't ID this tranny. You will have to be the judge. It is electric overdrive.The tranny might need some work,I don't know. eMail before you bid so we are on the same page. Good luck. Will accept Money Orders-Personal Checks-Buyer pays S/H-Will ship when payment arrives or check clears.
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| | RE: overdrivetranny on Ebay -- BOB HOPKINS, 04/20/2001
MY $0.02
That trans is based on the T-85 3/speed and with O/D makes the T-86, both are what the toploader 4/speed was made from. First HI-PO 390"-406" were delevered with 3/speed O/D ,so I donot think you are compromized at all. Finding a good floor shift linkage will be fun now a days,I'll bet your going to pull your hair at that point. I'd guess will have to adapt a 4/speedshifter,or maybe JCwitneysmay still have sometin.If price dosent git out of hand may be! |
| |  | RE: Not a T-85/86 -- Mike McQuesten, 04/20/2001
This is just a reasonabe guess on that O.D. trans. It looks like a small block Ford produced Top Loader 3 speed w/O.D. Sixties Ford Pick-Ups that were rarely equipped with the overdrive/FE were still running the Borg Warner T-85. The BW T-85 is a tough gear box. Tougher than the T-10 by a long shot. That trans in the pic is not a T-85 nor a T-86. The T-86 was Borg Warner Produced and backed 6 bangers/292s etc. Not a tough trans. I've got three T-85s (yup, I like 'em) and one T-86 that will not be used. A friend had a '65 Galaxie w/289 and 3 spd/o.d. and the trans looked like that one,i.e., top loader and Ford made. It's a nice work horse trans for a small block. Better than the T-86 it replaced. |
| | | | RE: Not a T-85/86 -- BOB HOPKINS, 04/20/2001
Yep your right , I appolize not a T-85 been a lot of years,gitting older eyes bad , brain Faidinnnnng
T-85/86 is based on BorgWarner and looks like sideloader T-10 style |
| | | | | RE: Not a T-85/86 -- Mike McQuesten, 04/20/2001
Thanks Bob, I hope I didn't sound like a smart ass. I have a hunch that you've forgotten more than I'll ever know. A '56 w/427 is a dream car to me. Is your '57 still FE powered? Back to that tranny, Kevin was right I think about his observation of that long input shaft. I really think that trans is a '65 later small block app. Check the early, '49-'64, later, '65-up, bolt holes on the trans. Check the top load/access cover....FoMoCo T & C (Transmission & Chassis). Hey Bob I noticed that you replaced your T-10 with a top-loader. I have never had a T-10 with big or small block that could take the necessary (ab)use. Oh and you mentioned finding a floor shift conversion for a Borg Warner T-85? You're right, they're impossible to find new. BTW, remember how much lighter that T-10 piece was vs. the brute T-85? I never minded pulling a T-10 out while laying on a creeper and using my chest as a rest. Easy to press. I would never do that with a T-85. |
| | | | | | RE: Not a T-85/86 -- BOB HOPKINS, 04/20/2001
Yep the 57 is FE powered 780 holley,sidwinder SS/B 427 cam,Dove rockers and stands, crane pushrods{special shortdue to Dove rocker extra longdue to shell lifters that was abitch} FFP H/D shafts {replacement partsdue to parts brakage}.Laying on my back under it last night tring to decide trans Close-ratio/wide ratio top loader LIght alumin flywheel/heavy steel flywheel or Put the C-6 in. I changed gear ratio in diff from 4.86 down to4.57want to trya diff combo. You want to try somethin used to help a friend put a Hemi 4/speed in his 440/62 Plymouth talk about heavy!
Back to origional post the little box might do for street use under street and mild horsepower but your right serious use and horsepower probuly would bust it, I think I would pass. |
| | | | | | | Whatoverdrive... -- T1M, 04/20/2001
should I use then? I like my set up with a 390 and a C-6 but I hate to think of all that spent gas and wear and tear I could be saving on with an overdrive. Yet i hate to spend a couple thousand on a Gear Vendors unit, or a Mitchells.
Thanks for any suggestions, |
| | | | | | | | RE: Whatoverdrive... -- Jerry Wietzke, 04/24/2001
Have you considered a Lentech AOD. A little expensive but fits perfect and is bullet proof. I'm going to put one inplace of the C6 behind the 428 in my 70 Mach1
http://www.lentechautomatics.com/ |
| | | | | | | | RE: Whatoverdrive... -- BOB HOPKINS, 04/25/2001
There is no cheap way of over drive behind a FE,
Auto's there is only the late AOD- AOD/E with adp. from Lentich or there is a add in street rod mag's to put one of GM's turbo700/2r with adpt.
Stick shift there is late T-5 ,Tremac ,or aftermarket Richmond 5-6/speed.
Neither one of these are are what I call cheap{but then I am known as a cheap B#*#@#*} I would guess your looking at $2000.00 before your done.
For a O/D 3 speed like you found on E-bay ypu could adpt. that or find a late 50's early 60's full size Ford or
Merc. with big block and a 3/speed O/D.
Personaly if I was doing it would be a converson to stick and a Tremac 5/speed ,I think that will be the most fun to drive if you like a stickshift {and can drive a stick which astounds me that people can't but I am a old fart and learned to drive in 56-58 when all the cheap average cars only had sticks}
I think fun factor with 390" FE and Tremac5/ speed may be worth the $2000.00. |
| | RE: overdrivetranny on Ebay -- HighSpeed, 04/21/2001
Also, don't forget about the added time/expense to install a cable for the freewheel portion of the overdrive plus running the wiring for the electrical solenoid, governor, lockout switch, O.D. kickdown switch, and O.D. relay. Although I guess you can just wire direct to the solenoid to activate the overdrive. Just my two cents.
|
| 390 with 411 gears -- Stephen, 04/19/2001
What do you people think about runing a 390gt motor with 411 gears? Do you think the stock motor will handle the rpm? Were I live it's one lane highway. |
| | | 411 gears my opinion -- Lou, 04/19/2001
I had 4.11 in several of my cars and unless you are running O/D or just drive around town I think they are two low. You are turning 3000 rpm at 60 mph. If you live in a place that has a lot of traffic and/or traffic lights the 4.11 can save you a lot of clutch work. 390 have a very good low rpm pulling power so 3.50s work fine and you can take the car on the thruways. I also feel that 4.11increase the wear on the engine. Again this is my opinion and should be viewed as such. |
| | | | I agree with Lou, for what it's worth. nix 4.11's -- Walker, 04/19/2001
Jmo |
| | | | RE: 411 gears my opinion -- Stroker FE, 04/20/2001
Lou and Walker dont drag race there cars, so ya i'd say 4:11 gears are two much too, but I drive and make runs with my Galaxie. I think 4:11 gears are perfect, 456 is too much... |
| | | | RE: 411 gears my opinion -- Bo Fabre, 04/20/2001
My experiance with 4.11 gears tells me that they are to steep for everyday driving. Of course, it depends on if you intend to have a driver or weekend cruiser. I agree with Lou that the engine speeds will be around 3000 rpm at 55-60 mph depending on tire size, which makes a lot of noise on the highway. I recently finished a 67 GT 390 4-spd with 3.70 gears that buzz up at highway speeds.If you want to drive on regular basis and have decent mileage and reasonable engine life, stick with 3.50 or lower gearing. |
| | | | | RE: 411 gears my opinion -- Stroker FE, 04/20/2001
Whats your definition of " resonable engine life"? If you dont drive the car on the Eway at 70+ your engine will be fine. Muscle cars are built for street AND strip duty, they should be used as such. |
| | | | | | RE: 411 gears my opinion -- Bo Fabre, 04/20/2001
O.K. ............I guess everybody has their own opinion. I guess I must be gettin old,or was it that school bus that went flying by me on the Interstate while i cruised at 3500 rpm, 55 mph in my muscle car? |
| | | Have you read ALL your responses? -- Walker, 04/20/2001
did you read these:
http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=74182&messageid=987457254
particularly
http://network54.com/Hide/Forum/message?forumid=74182&messageid=987545622 |
| | | | RE: Have you read ALL your responses? -- richard, 04/22/2001
here is a silly idea, since you likely have a 9" rear set up one pumpkin with 3.50's for the street and a second pumpkin with 4.11's for the weekend or race track. |
| | | | RE: Have you read ALL your responses? -- Jeff, 04/22/2001
Hi,
No, I've been trying to get onto that site but it keeps saying it's down for maintenence. I managed to see one or two responses this morning before it consistantly kicked me out - will keep trying.
Cheers
Jeff |
| | | | | Something for you to ponder over. -- Rob, 04/23/2001
I agree with richard 110%.. I have a set of 4:11's for my 390 with a C6 and it runs 3200 rpm at 50mph and on a stock engine.. im not too happy with it running that hard. My opinion would be get a lump with a mid 3 gear and use the 4:11's for the track.... sure the 4:11s are fun as hell at a red light, but a mid 3 won't change your highway fun much and still give your engine some breathing room.. im in the process of finding a mid 3 posi for my car right now and rebuilding my 4:11's for the track... I hope this helps
JMO
Rob |
| | | | | | RE: Something for you to ponder over. -- etm63, 04/24/2001
I'm also in agreement with Richard and Rob because I've also done this. A few summers ago I decided to do some drag racing. I put together a 4.11 posi rear and swapped out the 3.50 posi rear and went racing. Now, that thats out of my system....(yea, right) and I'm doing more cruzing now, I've put the 3.50 back in.
Rearend gears are just like everything else - it all depends on what you're doing with the car at the time. There is no 'bad' or 'good', or 'better', etc.. If your wanting to go racing, lower gears (4.11, 4.56) are obviously the better choice because your mainly concerned about going a short distance the fastest way possible (1/8 or 1/4 mile). If your wanting a more all around gear for highway use, cruising, occasional stoplight fun, a taller gear (3.25, 3.50) is more desirable. Plus, with a 9 inch and the simplicity of swapping out the cogs, having several rearends to choose from is the only way to go. With a good floor jack, I think I can change one out in about 45 minutes by myself. Good luck and hope this helps... |
| | | | | | | RE: Something for you to ponder over. -- BOB HOPKINS, 04/24/2001
You must be younger than me{57+} I can change the 9" diff in my 75 pickenup in abought 1 hour and20 minutes |
| | | | | | | | RE: Something for you to ponder over. -- etm63, 04/24/2001
Yes, I'm in my 30's. And I'll add that I can do it in 45 minutes on a good day! If a knuckle buster occurs it might take an an hour and half - an hour to change the cogs and 30 minutes to cuss... smile. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Something Alittle diferant -- Richard Swart, 04/25/2001
Theres crusing down the feeway. Getting some where fast. Take the family sedan. Then there is a cruze down the freeway no where to be in a hurry. When you have a nice looking muscle car let them fly by you but you will find a lot of people interested in these cars and will slow down just to have a look see.And what you get is a nice smile and thubs up. When you have hi-way gears you fly by them and allthey see is blur. My next trick if I am going to some kind of curz-in that 100to200 miles away. I drive my 4.56 gears right up on my trailer. And then I find a hotel close to the cruz-in. then I unlode my 4.56s and go have some fun. my next trick ,My famely sedan , 70 Cougar with a stock 69351w 4bl.- aod trany with 2200 stall conv. and 3.89 gears |
| need a oil pick up for milodon pan -- John, 04/19/2001
How can I contact Mildon as I need an oil pick up to fit HV melling oil pump. The pan is a Mildon Ford fe roadracing pan. Thank you! |
| | Summit has had them in stock when I've called. -- Dave Shoe, 04/19/2001
Try summitracing.com, too. In the past they seem to have had lots more FE stuff in stock then they listed in their catalog.
Shoe. |
| Remanufactured vs Rebuilt engine--opinions anyone? -- Skywalker, 04/18/2001
i have a 352 in a 65 Galaxie that is starting to show its age. i've heard a lot about remanufactured engines, but this car is my daily driver and i'm not a street hog or racer. however, money ain't no big deal and i'd like to hang on to my car forever (or at least until I can find a good '63 Gal). Any opinions on which way to go?
Thanks,
Sean |
| | RE: Remanufactured vs Rebuilt engine--opinions anyone? -- RJP, 04/19/2001
Get a crank and rods from a 390 and have it custom built by a competent Ford machine shop. Perferably by a shop who knows FEs first hand. They will know all the little mods and tricks a FE needs for long life. The extra time and expense spent on details will pay big dividens in the long run. You won't need the trick stuff like forged pistons [unless you are planning on racing] but time spent on cylinder wall/ring prep. [torque plate] correct ring gaps and correct bearing clearances and the engine will give you many years and miles of trouble free life. |
| | RE: Remanufactured vs Rebuilt engine--opinions anyone? -- KarlJay, 04/19/2001
Since you said money is no problem, the reman might be the best choice. I like going with a local shop, but we have a bunch of local shops here. I went with a speed shop for mine, extra money but they are REAL experts. They knew all about the engine and what I wanted done.
If you have any speed shops (race engine builders) they can do an excellent job for just a bit more money. I'm sure they wouldn't mind doing a stock rebuild. I like the idea of converting to a 390, excellent choice, small or no increase in price! |
| | opinions anyone? -- Orin, 04/19/2001
If you do plan to "hang on to my car forever" ask yourself the question, "How many stock 352 matching numbers '65 Galaxies are there out there?" That may not mean much to you but I'll bet it will mean something to someone whenever "forever" arrives.
The old Gal has survived this long in stock condition, why not do her a favor and keep her that way until you sell it. Until then, you still get your daily jolt every time you dirve her.
I'd vote for stock rebuild.
And if money "ain't a big deal" how about springing for about $4,000 for a decent paint job, too? And as long as you're at it, toss in another $4,000 for a decent interior.
Hey, this car is looking good, why would I want to sell it now? :-) |
| | | RE: opinions anyone? -- Neppy, 04/19/2001
I agree with Orin. Like you say, you're not a racer. Why bother getting into a different or bigger engine when, I can pretty much guarantee, you'll get as much as you need outta the 352. Plenty of torque and, if you need more low or top end performance, change the rear gears. Just my opinion, many might disagree.
Neppy |
| | | | RE: opinions anyone? -- Allen, 04/21/2001
If you are satisfied with the performance and not intrested in any racing(except for the ocassional stop light show off...come on we all do it now and then) or HiPo street setups then stay with the 352 and if its still safe for a rebuild and is an original block for that car then I would say rebuild with a reputable( I mean VERY reputable) machine shop. P.A.W. ,Performance Automotive Warehouse, has super stock master rebuild kits (crank, rods,pistons,bearings,rings, oil pump, cam, lifters,timing chain/gears, and gaskets) for $882. For a small additional fee they will custom balance the rotating mass and set you up with molly rings and a hotter cam. If the engine block is not rebuild material the check these guys for a good long or short block. engineexchange.com. NAPA supposedly still carrys well built, I mean rebuilt, engines for stockers. Friends and family of mine have had good experiences with NAPA engines and terriable ones with Discount Auto Parts engines. Not sur about Autozone( if their anything like their water pumps then RUN THE OTHER WAY!). My uncle got a 305 chevy rebuilt for his '85 GMC pickup from discount auto and it had METAL SHAVINGS AROUND THE CRANKSHAFT! Regardless of how you go WATCHOUT cause their are some crooks in the engine business who do some half @$$ed work. |
| | | | | I'd stay away from PAW. -- Neppy, 04/21/2001
I've heard nothing good about them, as far as their machine shop goes.
Neppy |
| | | | | | RE: I'd stay away from PAW. -- richard, 04/22/2001
try getting a short block from jasper engines and have your heads feshened up. store the original short block
for when ( or if ) you sell the car. |
| | | | | | I'd stay away from PAW. I second that, PAW Sucks! -- KarlJay, 04/22/2001
Very poor machine work, bad customer service. |
| | | RE: opinions anyone? -- Stroker FE, 04/22/2001
NO WAY! I got a 66 Galaxie 500 XL and had my 390 warmed over and it is worth MORE now than if it was stock, and a heck of a lot funner Stock 390s suck, they need to be hoped up. I got coated headers also. Its very streetable still with 375hp @ 6000 rpms, 2700 stall with a shift kit in a auto C-6. Anyways, someone looking for a 66 would take mine over a stock one any day. They are worth more, and are fun&fast! |
| | | | RE: opinions anyone? -- Don V, 04/23/2001
What times are you turning with your 66 Galaxie, how is it set up ? |
| OIL Viscosity -- John, 04/18/2001
Also, in realtion to my question aboutn oil drainback, with 0.0025 clearances, everyone says I should be using 20W50 with a Melling HV pump. This THICK oil takes a long time to drain back until it gets hot. Anybody have an opinion on the best viscosity to use with these clearances? |
| | RE: OIL Viscosity -- richard, 04/22/2001
run a good quality 10w-40 oil. i prefer a full synthetic but a blended oil works well also. |
| | | RE: OIL Viscosity -- FE427TP, 04/22/2001
I run 10W40 also... |
| | | | 10W40 may be Problem Oil -- John, 04/22/2001
My understanding of multiweight oils is that they are basically the smaller number in weight, and then have additives to make up for the higher number. 10W40 is particularly high in additives, and that Ford at one time wouldn't honour warranties for people who ran 10W40. 10W30, or 20W50 are supposed to be more stable with regards to the additives breaking down. Now, this could be all hogwash, but I didn't make it up. And even more strange, I think I'll run 10W40 anyway. Thanks for the input guys. |
| | | | | RE: 10W40 may be Problem Oil -- RJP, 04/22/2001
I have switched most of my engines FEs and 385s except boat engines to 10w-30 from 20w-50 because of this drain-back issue. I first discovered this was a problem on my 66 Galaxie/428 that used a qt. every 700-800 mi with 20-50, switched to 10-30 and consumption went to 1 qt. every 1200-1300, almost double and with only about 5 lbs loss of oil pressure. |
| | | | | | RE: 10W40 may be Problem Oil -- etm63, 04/23/2001
Figured I'd add my two cents... I've got a 68 Mustang that I've owned for 10 years. It's got a 428PI engine and I run 10w30 fully synthetic (Mobil 1) with a Melling HV pump. It doesn't use a drop of oil and has good oil pressure - I'm a strong believer in synthetic oil. I don't abuse my car but I have driven it hard at times. About two years ago, I was out for a joy ride. At over 100mph the oil pump shaft broke, which, of course caused my oil pressure to head south. I drove a little more then a mile to get back home with no oil pressure. I dropped the oil pan, replaced the pump and shaft, put everything back together and have been driving it ever since - still doesn't use any oil, runs as good as ever. I know these FE's are strong motors but I think the synthetic oil also had something to do with. I'm not an expert but as I said before, that's just me experience and two cents worth. Go with Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30 and you should be OK... |
| | | | | | | Yes, etm, but... -- John, 04/23/2001
Gosh, this is getting more like a chat line than a tech forum, but here goes again. Yes ETM, Smokey Yunick says synthetic is very tolerant of air bubbles in the oil, and I agree. Of course then there is break-in where you should use mineral oil. But the question I have is still not answered. It is most likely that since your stock oil pump driveshaft broke, that it was not an after-market "guarenteed for life" job. Therefore I suspect that your engine is either stock or rebuilt to stock specs. So, your bearing clearances are most likely within the factory spec of 0.0005 to 0.0015" for which a thinner oil might be appropriate. For those wildy high revving "flexible" cranks, Ford specs were increased to 0.0031 max for the 427 and 0.0025 for the Police 428, but no-where can I find out what viscosity oil is appropriate. All the old school of thought says 20W50 with the larger clearances, and the new school of thought is 10W30 with standard clearances. And me...chuckle...I like the sound of 10W30 for drainback purposes and the larger bearing clearances for flexing tolerance. Any other inputs?
ps: fast oil drainback is important in a 428 FE running approx 480Hp in a 2500lb car...you don't want teh "G's" to stack that oil up against the back of the pan when accelerating and let that little air bubble in. A Mustang would be much heavier, therefore less prone to this problem. |
| | | | | | | | Try running 5W-50 Mobil1 or 15W-50 Mobil1 -- Dave Shoe, 04/23/2001
Your concern seems to be one of cold-flow, not hot flow.
Mobil1 5W-50 will flow FAST in any application above zero degrees Fahrenheit. At hot temp it holds the 50 weight that you logically seek.
As for drainback issues, perhaps a smaller sized rocker restrictor orifice is called for. Common orifice diameters seem to range from .060" to .090". I dunno which is better for your application, but if you're flooding upstairs, I suspect you can pretty safely drop the diameter in .010" increments until you're happy that oil is not puddling upstairs.
As for drawing "air bubbles" oil pump, I suspect they are not much of a concern in an FE. "Air pockets", however, are what I've found to be a regular problem in a stock-panned high-perf FE.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Try running 5W-50 Mobil1 or 15W-50 Mobil1 -- John, 04/23/2001
Thank-you Mr Shoe. Yes, I intend on up-grading the pan to the atrociously expensive (but cheaper than a rebuild) Aviad 55410 which holds 9 qts plus filter and includes a custom pick-up, windage tray and some sort of baffle tray. 5W50 Synthetic sounds fine for after the engine is broken in. I use it in my 350 I/O boat with no problems (sorry Ford guys). So, one more question and I promise to end this subject for good..."What's a good weight then for mineral oil during break-in, as you can't get the 5 to 50 W range in mineral oil?" 1000 miles takes a long time for a Sunday driver...er...hobby car.
Thanks again: John |
| | | | | | | | | | Drainback during break-in shouldn't be an issue. -- Dave Shoe, 04/24/2001
10W-30 seems reasonable for most break-ins, but then I'm not super fussy about the oil I select. I rationallize that thinner grades offer certain advantages over thicker oils, and thicker oils offer some advantages over thin oils. It depends on what mood I'm in that day and also how much throttle-hammering I intend to do before the next oil change.
To be sure, you're not gonna be racing the motor (very hard) during break in, so you shouldn't have to worry that much about the exact viscosity you select.
More bad advise from,
Shoe. |
| | | | | | I Agree RJP -- John, 04/23/2001
I think you are right about this. I have had similiar experience. In fact the reason for your high consumption with the 20W50 is likely that the oil drainback is so slow, the oil is flooding the valve guides/seals, and it becomes a bigger problem when the sump level gets low and the "evil air bubble" appears. So, the question is getting narrowed down to "Is 10W30 OK with the FE when bearing clearances are around 0.0025"?" |
| | | | | | | RE: I Agree RJP -- richard, 04/24/2001
as long as the oil pump is good use the 10w30 or 10w40in your engine. if you are really worried about the
larger clearances the when you swap oilpans bolt in
a high volume ( not pressure ) oil pump. while you are at it put in a heavy duty oil pump driveshaft as FE's dont like 0 oil pressure. they have a nasty habit of wiping the bearings very quickly when they lose pressure. synthetic gives you a small margin of safety
but i wouldnt depend on that. |
| | RE: OIL Viscosity -- Joe Chew, 04/24/2001
After break-in, I started running 5W50 Castrol Syntec in my 390-powered Thunderbird. (Mildly built engine, not used terribly hard.) This seems to have made the pressure gauge cease its occasional visits to zero when idling at a stop light just after a freeway run. My subjective impression is that the engine is also a bit quieter.
I found that this oil FAQ answered a lot of questions for me:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
If you're looking for a simple answer to "which is the best," you'll look there in vain, but it does help you decide what criteria to optimize for in your car and your climate and your budget. The one I chose struck me as a good "all things to all people" choice and was readily available and not too terribly costly.
One take on restricting the oil flow into the top end (I have not done this myself nor seen it done) is at
http://www.tbirdranch.com/techtips.html#Surplus of Oil to the Top end
One man's opinions, worth what you paid if your connect time is cheap:
--Joe
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| 428 cj air-cleaner base? -- Gary, 04/18/2001
Several years ago I bought a ram-air car (69 torino) that had the air cleaner assembly in the trunk. The snorkel and lid were correct and matched what I had on my 69' Fairlane Cobra but the base was a little different. Its the same dimensions in and out and has the raised area for the air filter to sit on but it has a vacuum line attachment to the underneath of the base with a small tab on the lower outside bottom of the base to hold the vacuum line in place. Also what appears to be small drain holes on the inside bottom of the base. Does anyone know what this thing is?
Thanks for all thoughts on this one,
Gary |
| | See my responses in the Gen'l. Forum. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/19/2001
n/m |
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