It is something most ignore, but I chose to grind away and taper the opening, epoxy in a screen and magnets for insurance. Ive seen some turn the headbolt diameter down at the bottom portion, but I never did. I ground the opening out where it meets the block though. Had no problems. The ultimate way is to block off return holes altogether and drill holes in ends and tap for return line fittings for lines to pan. Its a pain to route around headers, steering, linkage for clutch, but works great and keeps the oil from getting aeriated as bad. Good luck

When I do the heads I use a die grinder to remove sharp edge and retaper the corner of head and smoothand polish casting at bottom of head. I think thi onconjunction with restricting oil flow to rockers there should not be a excess of oil in valve cover
MY $0.02

Thanks Guys...am having a lot of trouble with this. Also I wasn't using the return Drip Trays. Wouldn't fit with the FPP stands...will try to modify for next time.

I use a Dremel to do both the area around the bolt and around the entrance to the hole. It doesn't take long and I see it as cheap insurance.

When you say "right" heads, do you mean you want to install 390 GT heads? Or are you looking for 428 CJ heads? I'm not sure of your question. Please post more information so others more knowledgable than me can answer. HighSpeed

As you said these questions will be answered when you get the goods as they come with an info sheet with recomended gaskets and bolt torques. From memory I think you do have to cut down the long bolt for the shaft stands. Some simple mods and the standard drip tray fits fine (I think there are at least two styles of drip tray, one fits easier than the other). I put a bottle of Moroso ceramic block liner (cant remember what its really called) in just to try and keep the coolant off the aluminium, 3 years later no worries. Personally I dont like restricting the rockers to much and run the passages unrestricted as they are smaller than the original ones. I also run restrictors next to the rockers (in the form of close tolerance washers) to control oil bleed off out the side of the rockers after the oil has done its job. I wasnt overly impressed with valve job (valve stem heights all over the place) but installed them anyway as impatience (and my wallet) got the better of me. Good Luck. Have Fun.

I am not sure which ones were on the Ford Drag Team, but in 1969 there were 5 drivers in 428CJ Torinos who set a total of 9 NHRA national records. They were Donnie Brewer, Roger Castor, Bill Ireland, Randy Payne, and Ed Terry.

I remember the name Woods and somebody else, it might of been Terry, but I can't remember. I think he had a two car team Mus and tor. I think around 68.

would do a story on the fairlane/torino half of the Ford Drag team. If anybody could do it, it would be Jerry.
I have not even been able to find much of anything on the web either.

thanks for the responses y'all

I would say $300 for the block since it needs machined,etc. 350 for crank, 50 for the hatchet, 300 for the rods, 200 for all the oil cooler connection parts, 400 for the manifolds. The pistons aren't really worth much in my opinion. These prices are taking into consideration that nothing is wrong with any of the parts.
As a comparison I paid 375 for a std/std 1ub crank..that was perfect std. and 400 for a clean std bore block that was correct date code for my car.

Really it depends on how good of shape and clean the parts are. The prices posted above I would say are average to above average. I bought a complete longblock that had std. 428cj block, crank, rods, pistons, balancer, flywheel, heads, intake for 600. That is a real good price for all those parts though. A friend of mine just bought a 428scj longblock with p.i. intake, full rocker assembly it is totally complete, assembled, balanced and blueprinted for 1800. that included timing cover, and had all related scj parts such as flywheel and hachet. You may see some people asking higher prices..but usually it takes a lot longer to sell the parts...and you have to find the right buyer looking for that specific part. If it was me, I would probably ask around 1000-1200 for those parts. Hope that helps

Try Ford Power Applications. They have beautiful headers for your car. Also Charles Crites of Crites Reproductions makes headers for your '65. Both have websites.

Tony, need to know alot more. like how much over bore, cam, timing, Where you have the vacuum advance hooked up at. How old the system is (since engine overhall, hoses, water pump , ect..). The more information then maybe the more responses. Hard to give advise with little to go on. When you say overheating do you mean puking water out on the ground or thumping should when you shut it off, hard to start when hot, or going by the gauge indication?

Tony,
Had a 390GT that over heated a lot until I put a recovery tank on the overflow. It had a 190 termostat, flex fan and the right fan shrod, drove to Bonneville and back with out a problem.

Jim

A few things to consider:
A high flow water pump, Edelbrock makes a nice one or get an impeller backing plate for the stock one (I think Jegs sells these). Some rebuilt water pumps use the cheap stamped steel impellers instead of the cast type, the cast type flow better. Get smaller water pump pully, the stock A/C pully is smaller on my 73 F250 than the non-A/C pully.

Bleed all the air from the system, if the rad is lower than the heads, get the add on fill tank that attaches to the intake. Run 25% antifreeze and 75% water. recheck the timming as it can have a big impact. The fan should be 1/3 the way into the shroud.

If that doesn't work, consider an alum rad from Griffin, not much more than a new one and they custom make them for your app. An engine oil cooler.

If it happens only during idle, Ford used a thermo switch for vac adv to dist on some to raise the idle when the temp went too high, but that only helps during idle.

I'm surprised to hear the additives didn't work, I've heard great things about Water Wetter and ProBlend's stuff, what products did you try?

I suspect traction is somewhat of an issue right now. Do you have an Equa-Lock (early '68 posi), a Traction Loc (late '68 posi), or an open carrier rear? Traction Loc (Lok?- I always forget) will buy you a bit more bite over an Equa-Lock. Sticky tires will, too. Sticking the battery in the trunk would help a bit (beware of the gas tank location!).

A cheapo B&M shift kit will speed up shifting. The C6 is a comparatively fun tranny to work on, so this might be a worthwhile undertaking. Type F, type FA (new type F and type A spec), or racing fluid all work well because they don't have friction modifiers added.

Stock distributors are good, but I'd also look at ditching your points for a Pertronix conversion kit. You probably don't need much more energy than a stock coil and cap provides, but the solid spark of a solid state ignition sure makes an engine run smooth at high RPM. Having the distributor recurved by a pro is apparently a really good way to make power. I'm still learning about this, though. Your mph number suggests you've either got an electronic ignition or some really fresh points.

I assume you've got C7AE-A or C8AE-H heads. These do NOT port-match well to Hooker headers (have you had any header gasket leaks along the bottom edge?). You may want to look at obrounding the mounting holes in your header flanges upward about 5/16" in order to shift the headers down toward the asphalt, and right in-line with the exhaust ports on the head. Before you do this, you'll wanna mark the header tubes for clearance, so you know where to dimple them when you take the headers out. This should buy you some noticable horsepower.

Lastly, if you pull the heads, throat dress the bowls and drop some cheap CJ valves in there.

I'm not a drag racer - no tracks close by. This is just what I would look at next.

Shoe.

What size tires with the 3:50 gear? Tire height can help or hurt depending on the size. Could pop in the 12s with the right size tires and fudging with the air pressure.

I think we need more info give us 60' , and 1/8 mile times the mile per hour of 106 is much more horse power than youe 13.3 ET indicates.{ Guessing your car weight 3400 # 106 = 310HP 13.3 = 280HP} You need more gear and traction , and a looser converter will help if you git more traction.

How about a nitrous boost? It seems to me solid horsepower on the cheap can be gained by a nitrous shot of 100 to 250hp for probably $750 or less.

This is a great running street Mustang! Nice to see a mild cam and not some radical thing loping along. A lot of good suggestions. Just a couple of thoughts. The higher stall convertor? I've had two in street cars. If you don't drive on the street too often and racing at the strip is real important? The convertor will help along with slicks. But I don't like the loose convertors on the street. I've had a TCI Dominator I think is what it was called. It stalled at 2,800 with a 428 CJ. It was "doggy" from a light on the street. I also ran a B&M 3,000 stall w/351W/C-6 years ago and hated it on the street too. I really like the crisp feel of a stock stall convertor. I've also run 4.11s w/C6 and don't like that either. How about 3.89s/3.91s? Much easier to live with and easier on that strong 390. Maybe consider an oil cooler with these steeper cogs.
My one suggestion..BF Goodrich Radial street slicks. Or M&H DOT approved street drag tires. I've run M & H G60 X 15 on 7" rims. They give nice bite off the line and you can drive to the strip and back with them.

Jeff,
In that stock dist. are you still running points/condensor? If you are then swap in a Pertronix ignitor unit and one of their Flame Thrower coils. I did in my ' 65 Stang with a 289/C4 and my '69 F100 with a 360/C6. They both picked up some MPG's on the street and more power under my right foot. This is a great setup if you are looking for ease of instalation , performance, and a stock look. No external box's , alot of wires, or constant tuning. If you want to tune it between street and strip to get the most out of it (and if you are well versed in ignition tuning ) then tou may want an external box setup. I wanted easy instalation , great performance, and a stock look. And price. You can get the Pertronix under cap unit for as little as $59.95 and the coil for under $25. Those external box units go from $150 to $400 for the whole setup (box, coil, wiring harness). Oh Yeah........ think about some sticker tires. Cooper Cobras are pretty soft composite in the right size. Look around and see if some places on the web have the specs on the softness and "grip" of the tires. Ive heard those BFG street slicks are good at the track and , not suprisingly, have a very low tread life on the street. Maybe you could run good street tires on the street and have a pair of the Hi-Po slicks for the track? Just my 2 cents..............well it looks more like a Buck 10 dont it?

3.73 rear end cogs ,a 500 - 800 RPM over stock converter and 15-16in street slicks from BF Goodrich. What do ya think? Will it get him a 12.9 run?

http://www.camresearchcorp.com/adjustcam.htm
I'm thinking of getting one, anyone have any experience with it?
home webite is http://www.camresearchcorp.com/

There's all kinds of sites, you just got to search.
http://www.halibrand.com
This place has the hub, the wheel attaches to.
http://www.cobrarestorers.com
Go into online inventory, then wheels & hubs

http://www.cobraracing.com/ProductsPages/AccessMain.html

They are all pretty pricey, but you may want to try TRIGO (They advertise in KIT CAR magazine) who sell a good looking knock-off and adapter.