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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5684&Reply=5684><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Water in the engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Allen, <i>03/23/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I recently did some work on my FE and I got a fair amount of water in the engine when the intake came off. I drained it and suctioned out the intake but still managed to get water in the engine. I buttoned it back up and let it run for a while then I changed the oil, hoping that would get rid of the water. It didn't. The engine ran a little hot but I got it  home and found more water in the engine. could the gaskets between the head and the intake leak that much. Im very sure everything is on straight and none of the gaskets were broken or out of place. Does any one know a sure fire way to get the water out without having to drop the oil pan or somethin worse? </blockquote> Water in the engine -- Allen, 03/23/2001
I recently did some work on my FE and I got a fair amount of water in the engine when the intake came off. I drained it and suctioned out the intake but still managed to get water in the engine. I buttoned it back up and let it run for a while then I changed the oil, hoping that would get rid of the water. It didn't. The engine ran a little hot but I got it home and found more water in the engine. could the gaskets between the head and the intake leak that much. Im very sure everything is on straight and none of the gaskets were broken or out of place. Does any one know a sure fire way to get the water out without having to drop the oil pan or somethin worse?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5695&Reply=5684><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Water in the engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Cooper, <i>03/24/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>i had the the same problem with my 360 and I re torque the heads got it up and running and drove it alot changed the oil and then i let it run long enoungh too get it very hot, as far as i can tell thee water went away </blockquote> RE: Water in the engine -- Cooper, 03/24/2001
i had the the same problem with my 360 and I re torque the heads got it up and running and drove it alot changed the oil and then i let it run long enoungh too get it very hot, as far as i can tell thee water went away
 RE: Water in the engine -- Allen, 03/24/2001
I havent had the heads off so I dont think it the head gasket. I dont see any of the outside tell tale signs of a leaking or blown head gasket. After I thought about it I figured the only gasket that could have gotten out of place was the intake gasket on the passenger side, but I wouldnt get water in the engine from thare would I?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5699&Reply=5684><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Water in the engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>bear, <i>03/24/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Did you install the cork gaskets in the front and back of the intake.  I had trouble with them being to thick.  I was shouting water out fo my tail pipes.  I called a friend and he told me to throw away the corks and use rtv.  no more water in the oil or the exhaust. </blockquote> RE: Water in the engine -- bear, 03/24/2001
Did you install the cork gaskets in the front and back of the intake. I had trouble with them being to thick. I was shouting water out fo my tail pipes. I called a friend and he told me to throw away the corks and use rtv. no more water in the oil or the exhaust.
 RE: Water in the engine -- Allen, 03/24/2001
I did use then cork gaskets on the end but they fit right and I also used RTV sealent . I had alittle trouble getting the intake on but My brother checked the gasket in the back and I checked the one in the front. I do get some water out the tail pipe but it seems to go away so I figured it was just moisture in the pipe cause it goes down to bout 40* at night and comes back up to around 70* in the morning. Thanks for the info....I never heard of the gasket being too thick.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5680&Reply=5680><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Need opinions on over bore options</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Eli, <i>03/23/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 428CJ that is std. bore. It is a clean block that will need no more than a .010 over bore. Problem is..no one make a .010 over piston. Here are my options: .<br>1.). 010 over 428 piston custom made cost approx. $700<br>2.) .020 over cast piston from fed.-mogal or kb-silvolite no forged, etc. avail. in a .020 over..cost approx. $215+<br>3.) bore the block .030 over and pick about any piston I want...forged are readily available...I think cost would be around $300 (trw, etc.)<br>What would be the pluses and minuses of each? Would the engine/car remain more valuable with the least amount of overbore I can get by with?<br>I bought the block because it was a std. bore in good shape. I kind of hate to hog it out to .030.  </blockquote> Need opinions on over bore options -- Eli, 03/23/2001
I have a 428CJ that is std. bore. It is a clean block that will need no more than a .010 over bore. Problem is..no one make a .010 over piston. Here are my options: .
1.). 010 over 428 piston custom made cost approx. $700
2.) .020 over cast piston from fed.-mogal or kb-silvolite no forged, etc. avail. in a .020 over..cost approx. $215+
3.) bore the block .030 over and pick about any piston I want...forged are readily available...I think cost would be around $300 (trw, etc.)
What would be the pluses and minuses of each? Would the engine/car remain more valuable with the least amount of overbore I can get by with?
I bought the block because it was a std. bore in good shape. I kind of hate to hog it out to .030.
 RE: Need opinions on over bore options -- James, 03/23/2001
Personally, I'd go for the custom pistons .010 over. I don't know what your budget is, but if you go .030, that is probably the last rebuild for the block.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5682&Reply=5680><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Maybe you should tell use your intended use?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Walker, <i>03/23/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Is this a street engine?<br>Will it see hard use?<br><br>the silvolite pistons are hypereutetic I believe, for street and even hot street use, they're plenty good enough.  If you go that course, then your next bore would be .010 over this .020 boring to get you to .030 oversize on the next rebuild. </blockquote> Maybe you should tell use your intended use? -- Walker, 03/23/2001
Is this a street engine?
Will it see hard use?

the silvolite pistons are hypereutetic I believe, for street and even hot street use, they're plenty good enough. If you go that course, then your next bore would be .010 over this .020 boring to get you to .030 oversize on the next rebuild.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5683&Reply=5680><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Maybe you should tell use your intended use?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Eli, <i>03/23/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Sorry forgot to mention...it will be mostly street driven..maybe some occasional track use. It is for a restoration project on my 69 r-code Mach 1.<br>Would it be a waste of money to get the custom .010 over? I paid good money for the block hoping I could keep it std. bore. I think std. bore may be possible, but the guy at the machine shop recommended the .010 with the torque plate honing. </blockquote> RE: Maybe you should tell use your intended use? -- Eli, 03/23/2001
Sorry forgot to mention...it will be mostly street driven..maybe some occasional track use. It is for a restoration project on my 69 r-code Mach 1.
Would it be a waste of money to get the custom .010 over? I paid good money for the block hoping I could keep it std. bore. I think std. bore may be possible, but the guy at the machine shop recommended the .010 with the torque plate honing.
 you don't need forged. The cast pistons should do -- Walker, 03/23/2001
especially nowadays.
I'd go for a good set of the Keith Black's. Double check the availability of .010 oversize.

JMO
 RE: Need opinions on over bore options -- mike, 03/30/2001
we have sonic tested dozens of FE blocks and can safely say don"t do anything until you get the block sonic tested...we have had "standard" blocks sonic test too thin to even keep standard...many blocks need to be offset bored and/or sleeved in order to get any decent cylinder wall thickness..in any case use the smallest overbore piston you can get regardless of the cost as it's truly a false sense of economy to save $400 on pistons just to have the cylinder wall crack and destroy a typical $4,500. rebuild project. just my .02 from mike at ctmar.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5674&Reply=5674><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>question-  is it difficult to find a one buyer for</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>mrb, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>several different cars?  For many reasons I have been tempted to sell my cars, in different shades of disrepair.  If I ever do it, I want to go all at once and be done with it.  Also, a set price that is non-nogotiable, if i do it i want it over fast.<br>thanks </blockquote> question- is it difficult to find a one buyer for -- mrb, 03/22/2001
several different cars? For many reasons I have been tempted to sell my cars, in different shades of disrepair. If I ever do it, I want to go all at once and be done with it. Also, a set price that is non-nogotiable, if i do it i want it over fast.
thanks
 RE: question- is it difficult to find a one buyer for -- Lou, 03/23/2001
The only cars selling are those cars needing little or no work, and as far as Fords go only originals or correct restorations. As far as selling a group of cars in most cases a dealer is the only person who has the money and space for several cars.
Through my company Vehicle Appraisers I was asked by 3 dealers to look at a collection of 52 cars belonging to one collector (nice cars) the asking price was $1,000,000 they were worth the price but who has a millon sitting around. The dealers bought the collection for $600,000, it will probley take a year or more to sell the cars but they have the time, storage, and can tie up the money.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5672&Reply=5672><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>.010 over pistons for 428cj?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Eli, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Is there a company that makes .010 over pistons for the 428? If not, who would be the most reasonable priced at custom making them? <br>I haven't had any luck finding any .010 over...just .030 + </blockquote> .010 over pistons for 428cj? -- Eli, 03/22/2001
Is there a company that makes .010 over pistons for the 428? If not, who would be the most reasonable priced at custom making them?
I haven't had any luck finding any .010 over...just .030 +
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5673&Reply=5672><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Have you thought about .012 over - BBC size?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Walker, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Might be able to work, measure carefully and consider... </blockquote> Have you thought about .012 over - BBC size? -- Walker, 03/22/2001
Might be able to work, measure carefully and consider...
 RE: Have you thought about .012 over - BBC size? -- Eli, 03/22/2001
Which BBC pistons would work for .012 over? Do you have a part #?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5662&Reply=5662><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Reuse old headbolts?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Neppy, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I talked to a guy today who had built engines for about twenty years before he retired. He says that, since I'm not raising the C/R (9.3:1) of the 352, I should just reuse the original bolts. I'm not really sure about this one. Should I reuse these bolts or get new ones? All I'm doing is removing (hopefully removing) the exhaust bolts. Then putting the heads back on with headers. The main thing he mentioned was the new gasket thickness (listed as .041") and, since the old bolts had already stretched about as far as they're gonna, I should just reuse them. I think after 96k miles and 35 years they might be weakened too much. Though, I never get "lead foot syndrome" with the car, because it really couldn't handle that right now. I think my driveshaft may just kick my arse if I stomp on it. Opinions?<br><br>Neppy </blockquote> Reuse old headbolts? -- Neppy, 03/22/2001
I talked to a guy today who had built engines for about twenty years before he retired. He says that, since I'm not raising the C/R (9.3:1) of the 352, I should just reuse the original bolts. I'm not really sure about this one. Should I reuse these bolts or get new ones? All I'm doing is removing (hopefully removing) the exhaust bolts. Then putting the heads back on with headers. The main thing he mentioned was the new gasket thickness (listed as .041") and, since the old bolts had already stretched about as far as they're gonna, I should just reuse them. I think after 96k miles and 35 years they might be weakened too much. Though, I never get "lead foot syndrome" with the car, because it really couldn't handle that right now. I think my driveshaft may just kick my arse if I stomp on it. Opinions?

Neppy
 I wouldn't sweat it. -- Dave Shoe, 03/22/2001
While Ford's newer engines have "use once and throw away" technology engineered into their head bolts, the old bolts apparently don't.

FE head bolts sorta stretch a little to achieve good clamping force which holds over time and temperature, but they don't seem to get close to the "yield point" of the steel (as new engines design their bolts), and so they pretty much return to their original length after being removed.

If racing, I can see where you'd wanna use head studs to remove stresses from the block, but for a standard or performance build, feel free to reuse the bolts a buncha times, just as long as they arent all rusty or corroded.

You might want to run a "bottoming tap" down the block and also run the bolts through a thread cutting die, just to clean up any potential burrs or debris, but that's often times not necessary on a standard build.

Also, when installing the bolts, do not fill the head bolt holes with oil. Make sure the threads are lightly lubed in both the block and bolts, but any significant puddling of oil can sometimes cause "hydrolock" when the bolt compresses down to the puddle, and this can crack a block rather easily.

JMO,
Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5667&Reply=5662><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Reuse old headbolts?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rusty, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I've seen plently of stock and super stock engines (including my own) over the years that use stock head bolts.  Follow Dave's advice and you will be in good shape.<br>Rusty  </blockquote> RE: Reuse old headbolts? -- Rusty, 03/22/2001
I've seen plently of stock and super stock engines (including my own) over the years that use stock head bolts. Follow Dave's advice and you will be in good shape.
Rusty
 RE: Please help me find forum,link -- dale large, 03/22/2001
Dear gents,
I have used this forum many times.I know this is not an FE question at all but could someone point me in right direction.I'm having valvetain noises in my 94 cougar. If someone would be kind enough to tell me a web page or a forum I could ask my question I would be very appreacitive.Im not trying to abuse this forum.I appologize if I pissed someone off by asking.Im not good with the computer or spelling!
But Im a sure a nuff ford man thaks
 Thanks guys! nm -- Neppy, 03/22/2001
nm
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5660&Reply=5660><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>head....ache</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>dave, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>HI Shoe I checked my earlier post about the C6TE-G heads on my 428, the date codes are both 5K on the heads yet the distance from the upper bolt holes is not equal! One possibility I heard is that the runners/ports are the same but one head has an "anti reversion dam" that makes the upper edge of the port appear 5/16 lower. With this in mind I checked the distance from the center of the lower holes to the bottom edge of the port and that dimension was the same on each head.  So here are more questions....1. Should I match the smaller ports to the profile of the bigger ports. 2. would hooker p/n 6114 headers work as an exhaust option  3 Should I transfer valves springs etc to the C4ae-g heads I have that need to be re-done or.....bolt it tgether as is and see what happens? The guy I bought the engine from says it came out of a Mustang that ran great and he drove the car before pulling the engine and does not think there should be a problem.... Thanks </blockquote> head....ache -- dave, 03/22/2001
HI Shoe I checked my earlier post about the C6TE-G heads on my 428, the date codes are both 5K on the heads yet the distance from the upper bolt holes is not equal! One possibility I heard is that the runners/ports are the same but one head has an "anti reversion dam" that makes the upper edge of the port appear 5/16 lower. With this in mind I checked the distance from the center of the lower holes to the bottom edge of the port and that dimension was the same on each head. So here are more questions....1. Should I match the smaller ports to the profile of the bigger ports. 2. would hooker p/n 6114 headers work as an exhaust option 3 Should I transfer valves springs etc to the C4ae-g heads I have that need to be re-done or.....bolt it tgether as is and see what happens? The guy I bought the engine from says it came out of a Mustang that ran great and he drove the car before pulling the engine and does not think there should be a problem.... Thanks
 RE: head....ache -- Dave Shoe, 03/22/2001
Your measurements across the bottom now make good sense. I was wondering if we were gonna break ground with a whole new runner style, but you've got two well-known exhaust ports. The bolt pattern remains interesting.

I tried to borrow the digital camera from work yesterday, but it was checked out.

I'm gonna try again today, as it's a nice old low-res camera that takes good pics and the $100 "Magicimage500" 1.3Mpixel camera I just bought from Best Buy really takes crappy pictures.

You are right about the AR dam. I'll see if I can post some photos which show the differences. AR heads are basically the raised-exit heads and they work with Hookers nicely, especially if the dams are ground away (relatively east to do).

I'm off to work now, but I expect to post more on this a bit later.

Shoe.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5659&Reply=5659><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>need to identify my engine</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a FE block engine in a pickup I recently got my hands on.....the engine is not the original engine, it has mercury valve covers on it, but the valve covers do not look like the ones on the 352, 360, and 390 engines....rather than having the raised part on the left hand cover for the oil filler cap, they are pretty well rounded......does anyone have any clue as to what engine it may be?  </blockquote> need to identify my engine -- Bill, 03/22/2001
I have a FE block engine in a pickup I recently got my hands on.....the engine is not the original engine, it has mercury valve covers on it, but the valve covers do not look like the ones on the 352, 360, and 390 engines....rather than having the raised part on the left hand cover for the oil filler cap, they are pretty well rounded......does anyone have any clue as to what engine it may be?
 "Domed" covers were std. on FE/FT thru '64 [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/23/2001
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5657&Reply=5657><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 cj carb rebuild kit?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Toltz, <i>03/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'm having trouble finding a renew kit for my cj carb. does anyone have a good source?<br> </blockquote> 428 cj carb rebuild kit? -- Toltz, 03/21/2001
I'm having trouble finding a renew kit for my cj carb. does anyone have a good source?
 RE: 428 cj carb rebuild kit? -- Greg B, 03/22/2001
Summit Racing carries them.
You should be able to order the kit from just about anyplace that sells Holley Performance carbs.
I recommend using only Holley kits
 RE: 428 cj carb rebuild kit? -- rich, 03/23/2001
Get your hands on a catalog from PAW (Performance Automotive Waerhouse). Phone No. 818-678-3000 They have just about any Holley part and kit you would need. I just finished doing two 428 SCJ carbs. Good Luck.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5651&Reply=5651><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Gently stroking my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jeff, <i>03/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hi people,<br><br>I suspect you're all very sick of this topic, forgive me.<br>I'm interested in running a 428 crank in my GT390.<br>What displacement will this give me?<br>Whats involved with this modification, different length pushrods, pistons?<br>What are the pros & cons?<br>What sort of gain in HP & torque can I reasonably expect?<br>Currently 390 is fairly strong with good cam, headers, intake, 750 double pumper, flowmasters etc, runs low 13 1/4's on street rubber.<br>thanks<br>Jeff </blockquote> Gently stroking my 390 -- Jeff, 03/21/2001
Hi people,

I suspect you're all very sick of this topic, forgive me.
I'm interested in running a 428 crank in my GT390.
What displacement will this give me?
Whats involved with this modification, different length pushrods, pistons?
What are the pros & cons?
What sort of gain in HP & torque can I reasonably expect?
Currently 390 is fairly strong with good cam, headers, intake, 750 double pumper, flowmasters etc, runs low 13 1/4's on street rubber.
thanks
Jeff
 Re:410! -- Mike McQuesten, 03/21/2001
What you'll have with a 4.05 bore X a 3.98 stroke is a mighty Merc 410. She'll run like a 428! Only problem is....pistons! I don't know who's making a piston for this application. I think J.C. Whitney listed a piston for a 410 just a couple of years ago? But I wouldn't personally run a cast piston from J.C. for an obviously well built vehicle like yours. Pushrods? Shouldn't be any change there. Your 390 connecting rods work.
Torque and Horsepower gain? A lot more torque. Horsepower gain....not sure. A 410/428 was designed to push a big Merc/Galaxie/Thunderbird down the road. They were big grunt motors that became rather peppy with a hot cam and head work.....oh ya the guys at Tasca proved that to Ford didn't they?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5658&Reply=5651><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Gently stroking my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>ANDY, <i>03/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>There was a post on here a week or so ago by someone who was getting a set of 410 pistons. They were 390 forged items milled down with recut eyebrows. I think it was .100"(suppose it should be half the stroke difference)(also leaves lots of scope to custom dial in deck clearences and compression). Dont know how much crown this leaves but really hope it works as I would like to do same. </blockquote> RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- ANDY, 03/22/2001
There was a post on here a week or so ago by someone who was getting a set of 410 pistons. They were 390 forged items milled down with recut eyebrows. I think it was .100"(suppose it should be half the stroke difference)(also leaves lots of scope to custom dial in deck clearences and compression). Dont know how much crown this leaves but really hope it works as I would like to do same.
 RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- KarlJay, 03/22/2001
The post said that some company was buying L2291F (forged 390 pistons) and cutting them down for use with the 428 crank. I did this myself, I bought a 390 kit and found a 428 crank and didn't want to buy new pistons so I used the new 390 pistons. I had them measured and the top had just over 1/2" material on them and so I had the machine shop cut about .1 off them.
I polished the chambers out to about 80.5cc and ended up with about 205 cranking compression before break in. The real down side is that with this setup, you might end up with more compression than you want. I wanted about 9.25 and got about 10.25 but true custom pistons cost big $$ and these are good strong pistons.

By the way, I ended up 99.1% the size of a stock 428 and the torque is great. Don't forget about external balancing, the 410/428 are require a different flywheel and the whole thing needs to be balanced.
 RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- Paul, 03/22/2001
I don't know if this is right, but I remeber reading here on the fourm, that 391 truck low compression pistons worked for the 410 stroker. If this is wrong forgive me, it's just that somewhere in the back of my mind I remeber this.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5688&Reply=5651><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Gently stroking my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>410cougar, <i>03/23/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have this same set up in my 67 cougar. im about to run a 6z71 blower on top of that as well. ross is pretty expensive but are what you need if your planning on running nitrous. they support up to a 250hp shot. depending on you application go with ross if your planning on big hoursepower (550+) if your going to be consirnitive go with TRW. ive got an email with a internet ware house. give him a yell if he gives you a diffent price. (since ive heard that they like to do that) just send him my email attachment quoting what he quoted me. <br><br><br>Yes, they are forged aluminum.  Our website is<br><a href="http://www.misterautomotive.com/">http://www.misterautomotive.com/</a><br><br>I will have to load them on the website before you can order them.  If you<br>will let me what size (std, .020, .030, .060) I will load them for you.<br><br>Thanks<br>----- Original Message -----<br>From: "Hutton LCpl John D" &lt;huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil&gt;<br>To: "'Tony Willis'" &lt;mrautotw@charter.net&gt;<br>Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 2:20 PM<br>Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts<br><br><br>&gt; these are forged aluminu, correct. what is you web site<br>&gt; john<br>&gt;<br>&gt; -----Original Message-----<br>&gt; From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]<br>&gt; Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 9:03 AM<br>&gt; To: Hutton LCpl John D<br>&gt; Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt; We accept Visa, Mastercard, and Discover.  The total would be $298.62.  If<br>&gt; you want to purchase them, let me know, and I will load them on our<br>website<br>&gt; so you can process the credit card transaction securely.<br>&gt;<br>&gt; Thanks<br>&gt; Steven<br>&gt; ----- Original Message -----<br>&gt; From: "Hutton LCpl John D" &lt;huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil&gt;<br>&gt; To: "'Tony Willis'" &lt;mrautotw@charter.net&gt;<br>&gt; Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 12:40 PM<br>&gt; Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt;<br>&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; can you send them do you take credit cards or COD.<br>&gt; &gt; can you figure out the prise on everything. pins, pistons, and rings +<br>&gt; S&H.<br>&gt; &gt; thanx john<br>&gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; -----Original Message-----<br>&gt; &gt; From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]<br>&gt; &gt; Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 8:55 AM<br>&gt; &gt; To: Hutton LCpl John D<br>&gt; &gt; Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; John,<br>&gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; If anything has changed, it would be the shipping (UPS had a rate<br>&gt; increase),<br>&gt; &gt; but I would assume we're O.K. there too.  Thanks<br>again!..............Tony<br>&gt; &gt; ----- Original Message -----<br>&gt; &gt; From: "Hutton LCpl John D" &lt;huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; To: "'Tony Willis'" &lt;mrautotw@charter.net&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 3:26 PM<br>&gt; &gt; Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; sorry ive been out of town for a bit. is the price still the same.<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; 410 forged aluminum pistons<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; rings.<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; and wrist pins<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; john hutton<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; -----Original Message-----<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:38 PM<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; To: Hutton LCpl John D<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; John,<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; That's for the whole set.  They're Sealed Power (TRW) Chrome Moly.<br>&gt; Thanks<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; again!.....Tony<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; ----- Original Message -----<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; From: "Hutton LCpl John D" &lt;huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; To: "'Tony Willis'" &lt;mrautotw@charter.net&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:53 PM<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; rings for the whole set right or is that per piston<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; -----Original Message-----<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 12:55 PM<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; To: Hutton LCpl John D<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; John,<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; We can do the pistons (Power Forged Trw) for $29.39 each and the<br>rings<br>&gt; &gt; for<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; $55.00.  Freight on everything would probably be in the $7-$8 range.<br>&gt; &gt; Just<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; let me know.  Thanks!......Steven<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; ----- Original Message -----<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; From: "Hutton LCpl John D" &lt;huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; To: "'Tony Willis'" &lt;mrautotw@charter.net&gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 3:17 PM<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt;<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; can you get me a price on a set of ross forged aluminum 410<br>pistons<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; rings<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; and rist pins. im not sure what the kit entails.<br>&gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; &gt; john hutton<br> </blockquote> RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- 410cougar, 03/23/2001
i have this same set up in my 67 cougar. im about to run a 6z71 blower on top of that as well. ross is pretty expensive but are what you need if your planning on running nitrous. they support up to a 250hp shot. depending on you application go with ross if your planning on big hoursepower (550+) if your going to be consirnitive go with TRW. ive got an email with a internet ware house. give him a yell if he gives you a diffent price. (since ive heard that they like to do that) just send him my email attachment quoting what he quoted me.


Yes, they are forged aluminum. Our website is
http://www.misterautomotive.com/

I will have to load them on the website before you can order them. If you
will let me what size (std, .020, .030, .060) I will load them for you.

Thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hutton LCpl John D" <huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil>
To: "'Tony Willis'" <mrautotw@charter.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 2:20 PM
Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts


> these are forged aluminu, correct. what is you web site
> john
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2001 9:03 AM
> To: Hutton LCpl John D
> Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts
>
>
> We accept Visa, Mastercard, and Discover. The total would be $298.62. If
> you want to purchase them, let me know, and I will load them on our
website
> so you can process the credit card transaction securely.
>
> Thanks
> Steven
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Hutton LCpl John D" <huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil>
> To: "'Tony Willis'" <mrautotw@charter.net>
> Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 12:40 PM
> Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts
>
>
> > can you send them do you take credit cards or COD.
> > can you figure out the prise on everything. pins, pistons, and rings +
> S&H.
> > thanx john
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]
> > Sent: Friday, March 02, 2001 8:55 AM
> > To: Hutton LCpl John D
> > Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts
> >
> >
> > John,
> >
> > If anything has changed, it would be the shipping (UPS had a rate
> increase),
> > but I would assume we're O.K. there too. Thanks
again!..............Tony
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Hutton LCpl John D" <huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil>
> > To: "'Tony Willis'" <mrautotw@charter.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2001 3:26 PM
> > Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts
> >
> >
> > > sorry ive been out of town for a bit. is the price still the same.
> > > 410 forged aluminum pistons
> > > rings.
> > > and wrist pins
> > >
> > > john hutton
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]
> > > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:38 PM
> > > To: Hutton LCpl John D
> > > Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts
> > >
> > >
> > > John,
> > >
> > > That's for the whole set. They're Sealed Power (TRW) Chrome Moly.
> Thanks
> > > again!.....Tony
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Hutton LCpl John D" <huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil>
> > > To: "'Tony Willis'" <mrautotw@charter.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 3:53 PM
> > > Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts
> > >
> > >
> > > > rings for the whole set right or is that per piston
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Tony Willis [mailto:mrautotw@charter.net]
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 12:55 PM
> > > > To: Hutton LCpl John D
> > > > Subject: Re: 390 fe...parts
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > John,
> > > >
> > > > We can do the pistons (Power Forged Trw) for $29.39 each and the
rings
> > for
> > > > $55.00. Freight on everything would probably be in the $7-$8 range.
> > Just
> > > > let me know. Thanks!......Steven
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Hutton LCpl John D" <huttonjd@3mawcpen.usmc.mil>
> > > > To: "'Tony Willis'" <mrautotw@charter.net>
> > > > Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 3:17 PM
> > > > Subject: RE: 390 fe...parts
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > can you get me a price on a set of ross forged aluminum 410
pistons
> > > rings
> > > > > and rist pins. im not sure what the kit entails.
> > > > > john hutton
 I love when people call'em chrome moly rings. nm -- Neppy, 03/23/2001
nm
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5709&Reply=5651><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Gently stroking my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jeff, <i>03/25/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Excellent, thanks for that. So as I understand it, that takes care of the pistons & rings - I can use my current pushrods. What else do I need & where is the best place to get it.<br>Obviously need crank - do I also need new flywheel?<br>Any idea where I'd look for these items.<br>Thanks again<br>Jeff </blockquote> RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- Jeff, 03/25/2001
Excellent, thanks for that. So as I understand it, that takes care of the pistons & rings - I can use my current pushrods. What else do I need & where is the best place to get it.
Obviously need crank - do I also need new flywheel?
Any idea where I'd look for these items.
Thanks again
Jeff
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5713&Reply=5651><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Gently stroking my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>410cougar, <i>03/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>ya you have the remember that the 428 is externally balanced where yours is internally balanced. so youll need the crank. and the flywheel or flexplate if your running a stick. um in not really sure where to tell you to go on the. seems like the norm is around 400.00 to 450.00. i got lucky and got mine for 350.00 fully machined. the guy i got mine from has money growning out of his ears so i guess is really didnt matter to him. sorry i couldnt help you much more then that. where abouts are you from. if your here in cali i might be able to find you something.  </blockquote> RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- 410cougar, 03/26/2001
ya you have the remember that the 428 is externally balanced where yours is internally balanced. so youll need the crank. and the flywheel or flexplate if your running a stick. um in not really sure where to tell you to go on the. seems like the norm is around 400.00 to 450.00. i got lucky and got mine for 350.00 fully machined. the guy i got mine from has money growning out of his ears so i guess is really didnt matter to him. sorry i couldnt help you much more then that. where abouts are you from. if your here in cali i might be able to find you something.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5716&Reply=5651><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Gently stroking my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jeff, <i>03/26/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Was living in CA, which is where I bought my car. Now living in New Zealand which makes getting parts more than just a bit difficult. Does stroking the 390 to 410 make a noticeable difference to the grunt?<br>Cheers<br>Jeff </blockquote> RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- Jeff, 03/26/2001
Was living in CA, which is where I bought my car. Now living in New Zealand which makes getting parts more than just a bit difficult. Does stroking the 390 to 410 make a noticeable difference to the grunt?
Cheers
Jeff
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5728&Reply=5651><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Gently stroking my 390</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>bear, <i>03/27/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>carls fords in homewroth ohio sells 428 cranks.  that might be a problem living in new zealand.  The pierogie bros. out of new jersey sell 428 cranks also.  You can have the rotating assembly balanced at a machine shop and elimate matching the flywheel/flexplate and dampner.  </blockquote> RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- bear, 03/27/2001
carls fords in homewroth ohio sells 428 cranks. that might be a problem living in new zealand. The pierogie bros. out of new jersey sell 428 cranks also. You can have the rotating assembly balanced at a machine shop and elimate matching the flywheel/flexplate and dampner.
 RE: Gently stroking my 390 -- Jeff, 03/27/2001
Thanks people, I appreciate the advise. I'm beginning to wonder though if it's worth the expense for an extra 14 or so cubic inches (0.030 over 390). For that sort of investment I could do some fairly major head work, or even perhaps go with a roller cam on the 390.
Or, as people are suggesting here, just wack nitrous on it & be done. I'm not sure, it's all food for thought.
Thanks again for your input.
Cheers
Jeff
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5645&Reply=5645><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Help alm. intake</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Richy, <i>03/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote> Can any body help? page two under intakes richy. </blockquote> Help alm. intake -- Richy, 03/21/2001
Can any body help? page two under intakes richy.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=5647&Reply=5645><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help alm. intake</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>kevin, <i>03/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Yes this intake will work o-k despite what everyone thinks about it. However with this stroker you wil start to die about 5000 rpm. To help, make the 4 holes into 2 ovals like the P.I. intake and run an open carb spacer as tall as you can get away with. Extrude it if you can by all means and you will gain more. This manifold will gouge the eyes out of all others for initial throttle response and accelerate the vehicle quicker if you have an automatic transmission.  </blockquote> RE: Help alm. intake -- kevin, 03/21/2001
Yes this intake will work o-k despite what everyone thinks about it. However with this stroker you wil start to die about 5000 rpm. To help, make the 4 holes into 2 ovals like the P.I. intake and run an open carb spacer as tall as you can get away with. Extrude it if you can by all means and you will gain more. This manifold will gouge the eyes out of all others for initial throttle response and accelerate the vehicle quicker if you have an automatic transmission.
 RE: Help alm. intake -- Richy, 03/22/2001
Have auto. Most likly 3000 stall. 4.11s.try -y headers. thanks Kevin.
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