As far as I know gas engines don't have governor's. You've probably allready verified this, but I'll mention it anyway; the manual choke should keep the choke flapper standing straight up, If not the choke could be blocking the inlet air causing the rich mixture and I've sure you've check out the air inlet and air filter. The Carb. internal passages are could plugged up. (some times you can get lucky by cleaning it out with carb. cleaner while the engine is running at fast idle) You'll probably have to disassemble it and throughly clean all the pathways. I'd also, put a vacuum gauge on it and see how much vac it pulls at idle and 1800 RPM. And it would be a good idea to get a base line on the compression for future references. Maybe you'll get some more opinions form Dave..

Could be a blown power valve or a weak float spring or a cracked float or a warped main body or ?? I once had a 427 car that acted like this new and it turned out to be a flaw in the metering block that was a small hole that had been cast that way. It allowed too much gas to flow and gave the same symptons. Just some food for thought, good luck. PS 4 barrel carbs did have governors but I never owned any 2 barrel F-700s

The early HiPo heads have very small combustion chambers and would probably not be the best choice for your application. You could sell them to someone who needs them for a restoration, and put the money towards a better set.
The C4AE-G head is the base 352/390 head. It is not cast for the 16 bolt pattern, so you could not use CJ manifolds on them. Yes, you can drop the CJ valves in them, do a little bowl work, and have a set of CJ equivalent flowing heads.
For the price, it is hard to go wrong with the Edelbrocks. I have seen them move a 390 Falcon into the low 12's with ease. By the time you put the machine work into converting a set of the C4AE heads, you are further ahead shelling out a few hundred more for the Edelbrocks. If every penny counts, then you can use the Iron heads, but you will not save much.

Ed

You are fortunate to have these heads, if they are indeed CO castings. However they should not have machined chambers.The C-J heads are cast from different patterns altogether so most of what people gain in other heads with the installation of bigger valves and porting is just that. The 428 with these 352-360 horse heads and dished pistons is the most potent street combo you will experience for the bucks.They offer the small chamber which can be reworked correctly to the most advantageous shape for combustion efficiency and surface to volume ratio.

The intake valves and pistons will always turn black because of the carbon in gasoline. There is nothing to worry about unless you have some major buildup going on. If you want to run some fuel system cleaner through it, go for it, just follow the label on the can. Personally, i've used some STP Fuel System Treatment that comes in a silver plastic container that i've had good results with. The real cheap (ie. 3 dollar) cleaners do not do a whole lot of anything. Also remember that all gasoline today has a certain ammount of cleaners in it, so buying a fuel system cleaner may be a waste of money.

The 460 is much like a 429 block.

I'll bet either of the two fomoco.com 429 forums would have exactly the info you seek.

The 429 Mustang forum is at:

http://www.fomoco.com/forum429/

and the 429 Torino forum is at:

http://www.fomoco.com/forummidsize/

Hey, sorry to keep sending you away, but sometimes it works best .

Shoe.

I thought there were only 3 429/460 blocks.

1. The Boss 429 block (possibly different for S vs. T or 69 vs. 70)

2. The CJ block - 4 bolt mains

3. All others, 429 & 460. I thought they all used the same block. It doesn't matter much. It's pretty hard to crack any 429/460 block.

I'm far from an expert on the 429/460. My simple point is that unless you're doing a numbers matching restoration, it shouldn't matter which block you have.

The sites Shoe mentioned should be able to help.

It's probably more accurate to say Mustang manifolds won't fit. They have some vertical bolt holes, but mostly diagonal. Since your heads only have vertical, there won't be a place for the diagonal to bolt up to. You could probably drill and tap the diagonal holes, though.

The t-bird manifolds will fit the engine, obviously, but I don't know about interference with the shock towers and steering. I bet they'll fit, though. Those manifolds are pretty slender.

I think most headers come with 4 holes per cylinder. I know my Hooker's do. Some of the vertical holes are a bitch.

I believe you mentioned it was a '64 bird. This motor has 2-bolt motor mount bosses cast into the block, which is one complication, because all '65-later blocks have 4-bolt bosses to attach the motor mounts to the block.

The 1964 heads are nice in that they are the large-runner variety, much like the CJ head. The problem is the 8-bolt vertical exhaust pattern of the early heads. This is tough to retrofit to Fairlanes and Mustangs because the lower 4 exhaust manifold bolts on each head are REALLY REALLY tough to access when installing headers. Log manifolds won't even fit in a Mustang/Fairlane.

In 1966-later, all FE heads got eight extra exhaust manifold bosses cast into them. Some heads got drilled for the Fairlane/Mustang pattern, others for Galaxie and pickup applications. These '66-later heads han be drilled either way or both ways. '65-earlier heads lack the eight extra manifold bosses on the exhaust flange of each head, and cannot be drilled because there is no extra material there - four bosses are clearly missing and the four in the water jacket are also missing, meaning you'll probably hit water if you drill.

The engine you have will work great in the Mustang, but you'll have to learn the details of how to retrofit your block to Mustang motor mounts, and you also need to know the heads will be TOUGH to bolt up to headers, because you can't cheat and leave the bottom bolts out, as you can if you have 14 or 16 bolt holes per head.

Note also that the exhaust port position is different between the '65-earlier (also includes all 427s, C6AE-R, and CJ heads), and the 66-later small-runner heads, as the later head has lowered the exhaust port 5/16", meaning the two port styles require two different types of headers, if you expect to properly port match and seal the headers.

Shoe.

Dear sir
I dont know this to be a fact but your exh.manifold should fit. Are you into performance? Put you a set of headers on the FE . If you get a hold of hooker(or who ever) they will steer you right.I put a set of hooker comp. plus on my 69 stang with a 428 it made good hp. move,but it was very very very tight. I dont have org. motor my is a 68 out of a fairl/gal I have vetical bolt holes. My headers only have vertical bolt holes but I bet they make
what you need good luck.

Police Intercepter: 1966 Its a good intake. There is also one made by Ford that is called a Sidewinder. The P.I. gives a little more power on the top end, but the Sidewinder gives more torque over a broader range.

This is an involved swap man. Espically since the car is a factory 6 cylinder. Your braking system and front suspension system will have to be swaped over to a V8 setup. No way around it. Dont let anyone tell you different. The I6 and V8 cars ARE DIFFERENT! Do you have a 7 or an 8 inch rear end? With a 200 6 I would guess a 7. You will need to swap over to an 8 atleast ( some people say a 9 ,but a good 8 can handel up to 300HP easy and it isnt as heavy as the 9 so you save some preciuos weight on the rear end) If you are not an experienced mechanic as you say then my best advice is to get a Mustang that is already a V8 factory car. Unless your Mustang is a Family heirlum or holds some serious emotional attachments then a factory V8 is alot easier and some what less expensive to work on. email me if you want to ask any more questions and I can send you some good links to several great sites for a 5.0 swap in a classic Mustang. I have a 65 coupe that Im Restmoding so Im not just blowin smoke here.

one of your biggest challenges is going to be finding all of the reqiured parts. get ahold of one of your local mustang parts outlets. they will offer conversion kits including mounts and the assosiated hard ware. the second step is to find an 5.0. try to find one prior to 93 thats when they went to the hypernumatic pistons. but stay newer then 87 thats when they went to roller cams. you should be able to find a vehicle for under a 1000.00 with these 2 things you more then 90% on yor way. one of the neatest swaps is to just chop the front clip off and fab it onto yours. makes the best of both worlds.

I'm not certain, but I think 4-piston calipers are '68-later stuff. Sounds like a retrofit was done to the '67 Mustang. As far as I know, the Cougar and Mustang are REALLY similar each year, mechanically.

Shoe.

Ed, I used Ethanol when ever I can find it, it's usually cheaper and higher octain due to the grain alcohol. I have had no problems using it. Some say it will clean out your tank and plug filters. I personnal have never experience any problems. Way I look at it is if you tank is dirty going to cause you problems anyway. Ethanol susposably burns cleaner and polute less. Only few state have Ethanol mostly in the midwest I think or the corn belt. Maybe their is a chemist out their that will set use straight..The state I now live in don't carry it.

The gas in my area is the 10% Ethanol blend. The EPA says we have to run this gas because it supposedly burns cleaner. There is a big controversy as to wether or not it works in cleaning up the air. That, if you can count it, is the only positive. This "reformulated gas" will decrease your gas mileage by about 15%. On a gas guzzler, this is not good. On a carburetor because of the extra oxygenates in it, you have to run it richer to make it run the same as it did on normal gas. With an ECU, the O2 sensor sees a lean mixture and pumps up the duty cycle on the injectors. Another problem is that the alcohol in the gas will eat rubber for lunch. Got an old fuel pump or carb, better plan a rebuild or replacement. On new rubber components I havn't had a problem, yet. It also cleans out your gas tank real well, and can clog your fuel filter. It also smells worse and dries your skin out instantly. If you can, use regular gas, its worth it.

I am in an argument with a lesser educated individual about 390s to 427s. I was wondering if anyone else had any luck boreing a 390 block to a 427b bore? I know it is not adviseable and uncommon to find a block that will accept this but between my father and I it has been done. I hope that this is not the only case. Let me know if you have heard of this.