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 |  do FE and Y blocks swap? -- Charles, 03/12/2001
I was wondering if a 5-speed transmission, clutch and bellhousing from a '64 F700 with a Y-block (probably a 292) would fit behind the 360 that is in my '65 F350.
I know there may be motor mount and trans mount differences but are the input shafts and bellhousing patterns the same or not? How about the flywheels? thanks for any help. |
|  | RE: do FE and Y blocks swap? -- Dave Shoe, 03/12/2001
292s may have only gone into F-series up to 600, and B-series vehicles to 700.
The L302 or L332 looks a heck of a lot like the Y-block, except the oil filter stands straight out of the block instead of tilting down about 20 degrees from straight out on the Y-block. They are certainly of the same era.
They are called the 302HD and 332HD engines. I only stuck the "L" in front of them because I've seen the designation of "L332" in an industrial engine manual that Ford put out. Someday I'll get it sorted out.
The F750 got an L302, and the F800 seems to have gotten an L332. I wish I had time right now to scan for other hits.
Shoe.
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 | 352 motor -- wally, 03/12/2001
What should I pay for a good running 352 out of a 65 Galaxie? Less carb. Has the 4v intake. |
|  | RE: 352 motor -- Al, 03/12/2001
a little more info......................milege on engine, how it was maintained, how old was the person driving it, has it been run rugular for a least the past 6 mths - 1 yr, If its been rebuilt by the owner then what was done and what was replaced- AKA -did it get the full treatment or get half @$$ed. |
| | | RE: 352 motor -- Mark, 03/12/2001
What it is, I just bought a nice 66 galaxie. A guy at work told me he still had the motor out of his 65. He had the heads redone and they have about 2000 mi. on them. The motor ran real good. It had around 80,000 0n it.It had been sitting in his barn. I think the car was a bondo buggy. He bought a differen't car and parked the 65. Some kid came by and wanted to buy it with out the motor. I guess he was gonna make a hot rod out of it. Anyway he wants to get rid of the motor. Thanks, Mark |
| | | | RE: 352 motor -- RC Moser, 03/14/2001
about 80K is alot of miles, even though it runs good by his standards will it run good by yours. Know way of knowing how much wear between the mains or cylinder walls. I say not over 400 bucks. But, I Tighter than a >>. Guess depends on how bad you need a motor.. |
| | | | | RE: 352 motor -- Al, 03/14/2001
Im with RC ....$ 400 is top dollar Id pay for an engine with over 80,000 miles on it thats been in a project car. Regardless of how well its been maintained( or not) thats alot of wear. |
 | Fe cam question? -- John, 03/12/2001
I have a new fe cam that has the bearing grooves for a sideoiler. My problem is I have no spec sheet or any idea who made it. The info on the end of cam reads this D272 310 and what looks to be two u's attached together one above the other. Anyone have any idea? I got this with a 427 medium riser engine so Im sure its a solid lifter cam. |
| C6AE-Y head questions -- Paul R, 03/11/2001
Does anyone know if these heads would be good in a performance application? They came off a 67 t bird
428. If so, can the exhaust face be drilled to accept
4 bolts per port? They have top & bottom holes only.
Thank you in advance! |
| 410 4v fe -- Linden Johnson, 03/11/2001
I have the chance to buy a '66 Merc w/ a 410 4V FE engine. I have to admit total ignorance on this engine. Can anyone tell me if its a good performer? It has the 390 bore and the 428 stroke. I might buy it and drop it in my '59 Skyliner. It has 40K original. It may be a Canadian engine only.......not sure. Thanks in advance for any input.
Linden Johnson
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| | It's got a lot of the feel of a 390. -- Dave Shoe, 03/11/2001
The 410 is a quiet, smooth motor with lots of performance potential. It's not much different than a 390-4V, feel wise.
It does have the sacred 428 crankshaft in it, and lots of other 390-type goodies which make it worth building.
It may have the fairly common large runner C6AE-R heads, but it may also have the very common small-runner C6AE-U emissions head. Ford didn't seem to care which motors got which head. Either head will make good power, but the -R head can ultimately make more HP.
It sounds like a keeper to me. Just don't expect much performance "out of the box". Your gonna have to ditch the intake and cam assy to make any real power.
Shoe. |
| | RE: 410 4v fe -- RC Moser, 03/11/2001
I think the 410 would make a excellent motor for your 59 in stock form. I had a 59 with a 352 and it would lite the tire up for a block. (mainly do to skinny tires, rear suspension, and low end torque of the 352) Be kind of like you 352/390 on steriods. Mine had 155K on it and the bottom end is still standard bore. Other than the heads being off for decarbonization and resealed it's pretty much stock. I don't think you will be disapointed with it even in stock form. |
| fpa -- dave, 03/10/2001
can someone tell me how get hold of FPA so I can get info on headers |
| | RE: fpa -- Brian Crisman, 03/10/2001
www.fordpowertrain.com
I have their ceramic coated headers on my 67 390 Cougar and they fit great....very nice product. |
| Tunnelport Questions?? -- John, 03/10/2001
Thanks to all for the responses on my questions it is appreciated. Here is what I have decided so far from the responses I got. I am keeping my steel 427 crank and dropping the 428 crank idea. Im replacing the sodium exhaust valves with SS valves. Im purchasing the Dove roller rockerarm assemblies from friend to replace the Ford stock ones. Im thinking of going with the largest headers I can purchase for the Mustang which I believe are Hookers. Im wanting to replace the cal custom valve covers. What kind of air filter assembly and valve covers would look nice together on this engine? I was thinking the Chrome pentroofs and the 427 bird aluminum air filter assembly or maybe Tony Branda's 427 Cobra Valve covers and the Cobra Air cleaner assembly. Help me spend my money here wisely. What do ya think? |
| | RE: Tunnelport Questions?? -- Dave Shoe, 03/10/2001
I think the standard open oval aircleaner suffocates a big breather. You need lots more surface area to your filter than a skinny oval air filter provides.
Hey, I sure don't know this to be true, but every time I see one of those air cleaners, I can't help but believe they belong on a Tri-power or 427LR intake, not a MR or better. They may look great on the street, but take it off if your gonna race that thing.
Shoe. |
| | | RE: Tunnelport Questions?? -- John, 03/11/2001
Shoe, Im worried if I use the tall air filter the hood will not close on the car. |
| | | | RE: Tunnelport Questions?? -- Will, 03/11/2001
I have a 67 Shelby hood with a 67 Shelby intake (2x4). The standard oval aircleaner fits just fine. The 3" K/N filter almost fits. The top of the cobra oval touches the hood, but it closes just fine. It would probably work, but it would rub the fiberglass, and ultimately wear a hole (or make it crack).
I want to machine the cobra oval to take 1/4" to 1/2" off. It's plenty thick, so I think that's reasonable. I've also considered cutting the hood to give me an extra 1/2". I need to have the hood modified anyway, because it's warped a little. I saw a 67 Shelby in a mag several years ago, (I still have the article), where they cut the hood scoop and reattached it 1/2" or so higher. Sounds like a fun project.
So the bottom line... If you have a stock hood, you won't be able to put a 3" oval cleaner on your car. You may have more luck with a stamped steel assembly, because they're not near as thick.
I don't know how the height compares between your engine and mine, but I bet they're similar. I could measure mine if you like. |
| | RE: Tunnelport Questions?? -- Will, 03/10/2001
If you go with the oval, you can use a K/N 3" or 5" filter. That should help quite a bit.
I like the finned aluminum better than the stamped steel. If you go with the pentroofs, keep in mind that the chrome quality isn't that great. I would allow time and money to get them rechromed. Yes, I got mine from Branda. Almost all of my Branda parts have been high quality, but I was disappointed with the chrome on the pentroofs. On the flip side, I had some stuff rechromed at a local shop, and those parts look unreal.
If you go with the pentroofs, get the stellings & hellings air filters. Those things just go together. The k/n for the s&h is e-9181. You'll want to check the height. I remember them being a little short, but I don't know of a taller k/n pn. I've got the pentroofs, s&h, and k/n if you're interested. They are used, but they don't have any dents or scratches, and the only work I'd do is to rechrome the covers.
I think there are some Hooker headers that have a 4-1 collector that has all the pipes in a row - for extra ground clearance. That might look neat. It may also let you have bigger tubes. I think the Hooker super comps are big enough, though. They look pretty nice too. They just hang down too low. |
| | | RE: Tunnelport Questions?? -- Travis Miller, 03/10/2001
If I remember correctly, you are using the stock hood. That means you will have to use the short air filter element on the oval set-up. This is because of the height of the tunnelport intake.
A nice set of chrome pentroof 427 valve covers are hard to beat for looks. However there are some nice looking aluminum covers on the Shelbys. You might want to check them out.
The big discussion has been on what headers to use. There is no doubt that a set of Hooker competition headers would put out the most power when they are run open at the track. However it has already been mentioned that they do hang down a long way. While they may look mean, they do present a major problem when cruising on the street. Especially with speed bumps at the local hangout. When headers get dented, they look nasty.
Another route that can be taken is the tri-y type headers. These fit inside the chassis out of harms way. A friend of mine use to run them on a 427 with a tunnelwedge in his '67 Mustang. We were surprised that there was not that much gain when he switched over to the competition Hookers when run thru the mufflers. The performance picked up a little but it was not enough to offset the cost or the hassle of trying to cruise around with those low hanging things on the street. |
| | | JMO, but I'd shop for some low valve covers. -- Walker, 03/11/2001
JMO, but I'd shop for some low valve covers.
This is for show too and pentroofs could block the view down to the TP's intake's ports and detract from the impact when opening the hood.
There's really no way of ID'ing an installed TP other than looking at the manifold's intake ports, which with a sprawling air cleaner and tall valve covers, could easily be hidden.
again, JMO |
| | | | RE: JMO, but I'd shop for some low valve covers. -- Will, 03/11/2001
I tried some "powered by ford" chrome covers, and they hit my Shelby rocker shaft, so they wouldn't even bolt down. They'd bolt down with the stock adj rockers, but the adjustment screws would scrape when the valve was all the way open.
The pentroofs gave more clearance when messing with the spark plugs than the aluminum Cobra Lemans. That's clearance between the covers and the shock towers. I guess there's about 1/4" more clearance with the pentroofs.
The valve covers don't block the view of the intake runners, but an oval aircleaner might. |
| | | | | I use Cal-Customs (low, finned, matte gray) -- Toivo, 03/11/2001
they clear the shelby rockers setup. |
| | RE: Tunnelport Questions?? -- Paul R, 03/10/2001
John. I have a friend who recently sold a 68 mustang
fastback which he put a tunnelport motor in.
If you E mail me, I will give you his phone # & you
can talk to him.
By the way, it was the one on Ebay a few months ago. |
| 428 question of balance -- dave, 03/09/2001
I need help opinions or what would you do answers. I just purchased a re-built 428 when I pulled the pan to inspect the bottom end I found evidence that the rotating assembly was balanced. 4 digit numbers on the rod caps and ing that material ground off the caps. There are two large new holes drilled in the aft and forward counterweights indicating that the engine was internally balanced(?) The engine was purchased with out a flywheel and I have an original 428 CJ flywheel. A local machinist opinion is that it mat have been internally balanced and an original fly wheel will work. He said I should bolt it up and see what happens. The engine is going into a 69 Cougar 4 speed car......with headers.......what would you do? |
| | I'd have the bottom end balance checked. -- Dave Shoe, 03/10/2001
The rods appear to have been lightened a bit while being balanced, as you mentioned the balance pads are ground down further than stock.
If the assy was rebalanced when the rods were ground, some metal would have tyo be removed from the front and rear counterweights to compensate.
Internal balancing is mainly only done to the rear counterweight in a 410/428 (non SCJ) because the front half of the crank is internally balanced at the factory. Internal balancing requires the ADDITION of heavy metal slugs to the counterweight, so if there is no evidence that the counterweights have caps welded to encapsulate the heavy metal, they have not likely been internally balanced.
If lightweight pistons and rods are used, however, it is possible to reduce the reciprocating weight sufficiently to eliminate the need for the rear counterweight. I doubt this is the case.
As it's a new motor and you'll probably want to get a buncha miles out of it, I'd pull it apart and bring the crank, rods, and pistons (with rings and bearings and flywheel) to a balance shop. Ask them to "inspect" the balance. It's a lot cheaper than actually balancing the assembly. This is also a great time to get a sonic mapping of the cylinder walls.
If all looks OK, then you can reassemble with confidence, and you'll also know what the guts of the motor look like, and also learn whether it was assembled correctly when you bought it. This is important when your mashing the throttle. If it's a little (or a lot) off balance, then you can pay the few extra bucks and get the job done right.
As for stock iron FE flywheels: They're rather brittle and dangerous. When running a stick with a performance FE, you really need at least a steel flywheel. A blowproof bellhousing becomes important as the power and revs climb from there. If you must run the iron, be sure to use a blowproof bellhousing.
Shoe. |
| | | engine balance -- dave, 03/10/2001
Dave Thanks for the input! I called 4 shops in the area and they all said the only way to check an externally balanced engine was to spin it up with bob weights and the flywheel attached a 250 to 300 dollar option plus gaskets I knew I was going after the Loch Ness monster trying to build an RCode car on a budget but I have to try, in youre opinion is there NO chance the factory flywheeel will work based on the fact that front and rear counter weights appear to have been lightenend? Thanks Dave |
| | | | RE: engine balance -- Dave Shoe, 03/10/2001
Actually, it's likely the engine WAS balanced with a CJ flywheel attached, as you seem to indicate there are similar new holes on both the front and rear counterweights. This agrees with the rod modifications, and suggests there was a rebalance done...sometime in it's history.
The problem is you don't know whether the flywheel was slightly rebalanced during a prior rebuild or what the flywheels history was. It may not have been a factory balance any more than ANY well-used 30 year old flywheel might be. Also, you really don't know whether the rods and crank were rebalanced in the same motor - the parts could have come together from anywhere and never actually balanced as a system.
$300 includes disassembly, balancing, and some reassembly of components. If you supply the loose parts, it's much cheaper than that, and you'll probably reassemble your motor much better than the shop has time for.
If you're gonna go fast AND be reliable, you really do have to know your motor well. Stuff breaks when you push it, and it's nice to know enough about your motor to anticipate problems before they occur. You can't "anticipate" problems unless you have a mental view of what's going on inside the engine to begin with.
What's more expensive: Checking things carefully now or tossing out a blown motor and buying a used Saturn?
Heck, I can give a better example than that! How about: Checking things carefully now or blowing an FE engine and replacing it with a 460 crate motor?
Yeah. That hits the spot.
Shoe. |
| 428 CJ heads -- Bo Fabre, 03/09/2001
How much compression would be lost by installing 72-76cc CJ heads onto a 67 model 390 GT engine which has 67-71 cc heads. I beleive it should fall into the 9.5 to 10.0 to1 range. Does anyone know? |
| 427 cyclinder wall thickness -- John, 03/09/2001
Im also putting together a medium riser engine and the question I have is: What is the minimum cyclinder wall thickness when sonic tested? I just had a side oiler block bored .060 over to completely clean up the cylinders. I instructed the shop to sonic test it to find thickness. I know the thickness varies at different locations in the cyclinder wall. Has anyone heard of anyone being able to bore a block this big and still have enough wall? Also who would make pistons for it when Im planning on using a 428 crank? Thanks again. |
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