hell ya sure is. just for the top loader ive seen them go for 250 at the resent swap meet. i dont know what your intention is, rebuilding or just parting out? either way its a pretty decent deal. if its complete, with a lil body wprk and a tune up itll sell for 1500-2000 easy. either way you make out.

The C6 first appeared in 1966, so you probably have the FX, FMX, or whatever the heck they call it. It's an O.K. tranny, but not a great one for heavy abuse. I think it's based on a 2-speed fordomatic which simply has another speed added to it - this makes for a comparatively complicated tranny internally.

Still, if drag slicks aren't in your immediate future, it should work fine.

As for column shifting vs. floor shifting, you are correct in that the shifter bracket is a little different, in that the arm extends in a different position out the tranny. Some folk drill some holes and mount another bracket onto the stock shifter bracket, others cut the old arm off and reweld it in the right location. Others buy the correct bracket. It's rather low-tech stuff, but you do have to be close if you want the PRNDL21 pointer to work accurately across the dial. Ford Service Manuals or tranny repair manuals usually have a drawing of what both brackets look like (in the tranny adjustment section), so you can judge whether it's an easy or tough mod.

I don't really know what to suggest. Heck, I'm not sure whether an FMX actually ever came in an FE Mustang or Fairlane, but it'd likely fit with little trouble. I do know the FMX is way more complicated than my brain can deal with, so I just take 'em apart, steal the mainshaft out of them ('cause it's a cool looking piece), and then I toss the rest of it in the trash. C6s are much more fun to play with.

As for plopping a 1964 engine into a Mustang, be prepared to use oddball motor mounts, as 1964-earlier blocks used only two motor mount bosses, later blocks used four.

Also, be sure the 1964 block has the alternator mounting boss on the front-passenger side of the block, or be prepared for another odd-mod. Lastly, '65-earlier heads can't be drilled for a Mustang exhaust manifold pattern (390 or CJ pattern), so you'll have to run headers (with the raised-runner type of flange) and fight getting the lower four bolt holes in. It can be done, but it's not easy on the fingers and expect to chop-up a couple 7/16" Craftsmen combo wrenches in order to get the last header bolts tightened to the head.

It might be easier and cheaper to swap into the Mustang if you start with a '65-up block and '66-up heads.

SHoe.

like the other guys said. its a cruis-o-matic, ford-o-matic, or in my words a junk-o-matic. your better off getting a newer model c-6. even if you run it nice and gentle im willing to bet you not going to be able to resist playing with the 5.0, rice burner crowd. so just for peace of mind look into a c-6 and get it rebuilt. i got mine for free so their out there. most junk yards sell em off for less then a hundred bucks. with a good rebuild. youll be confident to smoke your tires not your trany. :-)

It's always nice to learn what actually solves a problem which someone has inquired about.

I learned about the rockershaft fix in an FE forum about a year ago when I suggested about six possible solutions to a similar set of symptoms. When someone else added the rockershaft oil-hole misposition idea, it instantly made sense and has demonstrated itself to be the most likely reason for an otherwise healthy FE to consume oil.

Shoe.

Especially the 1965-67 years of the 352, as they got all the late-style block upgrades, such as 4-bosses for motor mounts, alternator boss cast into the front-passenger side of the block, and the positive-retention cam plate.

A 352 has 82% of the displacement of a 428, so if it's easy to pull 550HP from a 428, then 450HP shouldn't break a sweat with a 352.

Also, when it comes time for a bore-out, .050-over allows using nice "used" pistons from a 360, should you wanna have fun, but not wanna spend a bunch of money. The 390 upgrade is also a cheap 'n' easy alternative, but it's also an easy cop-out. Frankly, I'd like to see more hairy (and economical) 352s on the road.

Most 352's from the "emissions years" of 1966-1967 also seem to have very often gotten the desirable large-runner C6AE-R heads, and less often the emissions-type C6AE-U or C7AE-A heads. Still, the emissions-era heads may have smaller runners and not flow as much, but I think they are better engineered and either the emissions or pre-emissions design would be great on a 352/360, depending on how wild you want to go.

I want very much to build up a 352/360 to see what kinda power it can make. The 352 did great back in the early '60s when intake manifold technology was crude by today's standards (camshaft technology, too).

Granted, the special 352HP engine got beefy connecting rods - a rod styled much like the 1964-later 390, but a tatch longer - but I'm studying the plain 352/360 rod a bit more and it's sorta growing on me as a nice forged street-performance item, especially since I'm studying rods from other '50s era engines and recognize the skinny FE rods were comparatively meaty by 1958 standards.

The 360 rodcap is identical to the 390, 410, 428, and even the PI/CJ cap, and this (in my opinion) is a very critical area, as far as making rod bearings live. Also, I think the 352 rodcap is the same as the 360, so by extension, theplain 352 rodcap is a performance piece. The 3/8" rodbolt is a great performance size, and ARP bolts drop right in, though I suspect I'd run stock rodbolts and cast pistons with a 360 I eventually build, because I'd be aiming at 425HP or so, and a redline around 6500RPM (just to see if it'll really live there for a long time - I'm betting the short stroke will let it go forever, just as long as detonation isn't allowed to strain things).

The 352 crank is just plain strong and stiff, but you'll want to get a '68-later style crankshaft damper because these damp much better when the revs climb past 5000 RPM, especially with the stiff 352 crank.

I dunno what your compression ratio is, but Mr.Fs specs suggest it's likely 9.3:1. This is probably good, as you want to avoid detonation, but if you put a wilder cam into the motor, you can handle a bit more compression, up to maybe 10.0:1 without detonating. An easy way to raise compression a half point is to stick emissions heads on, but this changes the tube-header model you need, as emissions heads have relocated exhaust runners.

Good intake manifolds for a 352 in a hot truck include the CJ iron piece, the PI, and the Ed Performer RPM. Trucks anf Galaxies can deal with the heavy iron CJ intake better than a Fairlane or Mustang can. These'll all work with large runner (pre-emissions) or small runner (emissions) heads without port matching.

I guess I've been in the process of formulating a cheap 352/360 performance build for myself for a long time, and am just mouthing off what's going on inside my head.

Maybe I'll have something ready by this summer's Car Craft Nationals, so I can participate with a 352 Galaxie in the burnout contest. That'd be kinda fun, as last year I saw a rather lamo "advertised as big-buck" 5.0 that spit and coughed after 15 seconds, and the Chevy motors never get me excited, even though they make O.K. power. Nothing sounded really mean last year.

At any rate, it'll be fun to see if I can someday make a 352/360 into a long-lived street terror.

Shoe.

"1960-1973 Ford & Mercury Muscle Parts Identifier" says it is a dual quad aluminum dual plane manifold for 427 for 1966 and 67. This is a mostly reliable source although not 100% accurate. In this case, if what you are lokking at is an 8V aluminum intake, it is probably correct. Having the carbs and linkage is a big plus for this setup. If what you have is really single quad intake, then this would be one of those "although not 100% accurate" cases.

no sealant, but make sure that the threads of the Head bolts have been cleaned up so that they torque correctly.

Sometimes it's a little easier to budge things when they are warm.

Soaking it, as you have done, is a good idea, too.

You might also go to a car shop that has an air-powered impact wrench an have them take it off with one of them. They might end up cracking the porcelain of the plug (if they don't get a good approach angle), so you might want to only remove the plug a little bit, and then use an air nozzle to blow the porcelain chips away from the spark plug hole.

Good luck,
Shoe.

Check the relay.

It's more than likely the headlight switch. There is a circut breaker in the switch that will give it up over time & cause the lights to flicker like that. My '71 & '82 F-100's would do that very thing when I was running the high beams for a while. I replaced the switch, and no problems since.
Dex.

I think the headlights are protected by a circuit breaker, possibly for safety reasons. Dunno exactly why a breaker is safe, as a lot can happen rounding a curve at night in McKelligan's Canyon when the suckers blink off for a few seconds. Seems like a fuse is less likely to just plain wear out.

O.K., the canyon thing happened on my Norton, and every brit biker worth his salt knows the Lucas headlight switch has only two positions: dim and flicker, so I was on the blinker in a heartbeat, and made it through just fine.

There is a "bimetal point-contact" circuit breaker inside your headlight switch. When the breaker points get dirty or corroded with age, they can start to self-heat and cause the switch to cycle on and off. They don't actually "flicker" from what I've seen - they turn off for a couple seconds and turn on for a couple and keep doing this. Maybe they do "flicker" in some failures, but I haven't yet seen one like that.

Are you running extra fog lights (these could overload the stock breaker)? Does it only happen when the bright lights are turned on (these draw extra current, if I recall correctly)? If you disconnect one headlight, does it still cycle? If it happens only on low beam, does it also happen on high beam (indicating a partially shorted low-beam filament)?

It's possible that your circuit breaker inside the headlight switch is acting properly and is cycling because a bulb filament has become defective (broken and resnagged a filament loop at a lower resistance - making the bulb brighter than normal). Also, the circuit breaker can improperly actuate if the connector plugging into the switch becomes damaged - this is easy to see because the offending connector blade will look burned on the outside of the switch..

Headlight switches are pretty much "dime-a-dozen" so if you can isolate the problem to the breaker inside the switch, it's an easy fix (once you learn how to remove the knob) and the switch is readily available. Note that the odd looking coil spring on the outside of the switch is actually the dimmer resistor for your dashboard lamps. Hey, I wondered what it was for a while.

Shoe.

i just want to thank you guys for turning me onto the possibility that the headlight switch could be the problem. well, what can i say except that you guys are GOOD---REALLL GOOD because i substituted a known good switch and not ONCE did the lights cycle on and then off! i sat there and just smiled because i was ready to drop the truck off at the local mechanic and let him figure it out! if it wasnt for you guys, i would be paying someone else $65/hr plus parts to diagnose this mess. once again, THANKYOU ALL :))

I'd say the cost is probably high and not warrant the cost vs. a good 4100 or maybe a aftermarket carb. I don't see where you will get a return on your investment other than a mile or two per gal, slight preformance increase, and the look of something different. But, if you've got the buck's and want something different why not?

Try this post:

http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=1742&Reply=1713

The FE never actually got a "Duraspark" ignition because Duraspark first came on the scene in 1977 and mainly involved a larger distributor cap, fatter plug wires, and lower resistance ballast resistor wire.

The FE did get a pre-Duraspark-era electronic ignition, I believe in late '74. Any FE can be easily converted to factory breakerless using 302/351/400/460 distrubutor guts, and the Duraspark stuff can also be added with ease.

Shoe