I'd first make sure the ventilation system is clear and not plugged. If so this can cause the smell inside the car. Next I'd do a compression check. If you have worn compression rings you will get blow-by pass the rings and pressurize the bottom end (oil pan area) causing the oil to become airborne and it will force it's way into the ventilation system causing the blow by. Next I'd remove the valve covers and clean out the oil return passages, older ventilation system design builds up alot of sludge that sticks to the valve covers and will plug up the return holes leaving alot of oil in the valve cover area and this will also vaporize and be vented overboard and you will smell it. The compression check will tell you alot about the condition of your engine. If you have excessive wear between the cylinder walls and pistons you will get blowby. Just make sure you the system is not plugged up. As for the carb. weak compression, bad or improperly adjusted points and condition of the wires and plugs play a big role on how lean you engine runs. A vacuum gauge will also indicate how well or worn your engine is by how much vacuum it will pull. Hope this helps or maybe will spark some more opinions on your problem.

According to the Holley Carburetor Numerical Listing book dated 1989, D0ZF-9510-AA traces down to a 1970 428 Cobra-Jet with emissions and manual transmission. But it shows LIST 4513-1AAA.

Recheck the List number on the carb. Number 4523-1 shows a one barrel for a 1969 250 6 cylinder.

seems i pushed the wrong button.
LIST-4513-1
DATE(air horn) 964
-------------------------------
TAG-DOXF-AA
DATE- A9GD

DOZF-AA is a R-4513-1AAA Holley 735cfm
Primary jet #66
Secondary jet #79
70 Mustang,Cougar 428CJ man trans

that carb is a 735cfm,it quoted to be a 750cfm w/ pri. jets #66 and secondary jets #72 witch came off a 1970 429 boss according to FORD high performance engine parts interchange book, author GEORGE REID

personally I like Crane cams
check out www.cranecams.com
they have a list of cams available for the 390 and they tell you what their idle & power characteristics are like also.
good info !
Steve

The 428 is externally balanced so the dampners and fly wheels are wieghted. I believe the 410 is also balanced this way.

Hey, they been setten for a while, so it won't hurt them to set some more. Only thing I can suggest is not to store them over dirt or the bottoms of the cars will rot. I don't think any of us working men has enough money to go around. And when we usually get a head alittle something comes up to take it. So, we've all had that overwhelmed feeling at one time or another.

I had the same problem. My advice is to sell some and focus on the remaining. We are not getting any younger....I still have two left to do. The first two took 15 years to finish.

The 67 shelby had a rollback similar to the 68. Actually I think it was the same rollbar for the FB, but the 68 convertable rollbar was probably different. I've never compared them.

The Mustang shops carry them (Branda, Mustangs Unlimited, etc.), but they are around $400, and they say they do not provide adequate protection in a rollover. I don't know if that's because of the way they're mounted, or if they are too weak. I plan on having one made similar to the Shelby, but strong enough for rollover protection. That's a year or so away, though.

I've wanted on of those for years in my '68 BB XR-7. The OEM or replacement seatbelt retractors are rather price prohibative! I'd like to hear what you find out. You can E-mail me privately at: 68cougar@galaxyinternet.net

THANX!

COUGAR

Well this may be a little late but here is my input.
I have had or have both styles. I had a 67 Mustang convertible that had a 68 Shelby Convertible roll bar, which is different than the one used in the fastback. The convertible roll bar as some one stated is purely for looks, and it does look neat. On my 67 Shelby GT-500 The roll bar is much stronger and does go to the frame rails (welded) and also has mounting points at the roof line. I strongly believe that this would offer some protection in a roll over. With that said I do not think it would work well in a cougar without some modification.

I have a 416 using 30 over 390 pistons and having the top milled off to the correct height.

Ford power parts makes them. thek take 390 TRW forged pistons and mill .100 off the top and cut new valve reliefs. I ordered a set 3 weeks ago, havent gotten them yet but hope to get them soon. the set including moly sealed power rings is about $425.00, and they do include wrist pins. they are not balanced though. there phone # 1-562-921-5300. owners name is Ron.

Congrats on the new crank! I did the same thing, took a 428 crank and used the L2291F forged pistons and had them cut down to about zero deck. I had the whole thing balanced and used a new Mcleod flywheel. I had the pistons measured and was told it had just over 1/2" material at the lowest point from the underside, so trimming off .1 wasn't a bad deal.
I used a 60 over 390 block because I couldn't find a good condition/ fair price 428 block and didn't want to waste a new set of pistons.
As a side note, my cranking compression is about 195~200 and that's with 80cc heads. With a blower, I think you would want the CR to be about 8~8.5 or so, make sure you take this into account before you write the check!

Hampton Blowers makes FE blower intakes that might be worth looking at, http://hamptonblowers.com
$775 is a bit high, but it might be a better design.