I don't know if superior is the proper word. I consider Gessford a top-notch FE shop. I trust their work. But, superior implies they are the best. That's not being fair to several other shops.

There are a couple of things that are certain, though. A Gessford engine will be done "right", and regardless of how it runs, working with George will be fun.

always install new Springs & Lifters when you change cams, just to be sure they are OK
and match the Springs to the Cam, the Cam maker will recommend the proper spring.
thats my rule of thumb anyway, new springs are cheap insurance !
sm

Low oil pressure is your most pressing concern, perhaps an oil consumption problem depending upon the oil control ring's ability to handle the excessive cylinder oiling.

This is not a situation you can live with. You need to get your engine in specs otherwise you're going to be back into the engine long before you should have to.

How did you end up with this much clearence? Were the rods plained or the crank gound? You're going to have to replace whatever was improperly machined.

You can already buy a wet flow system from the major aftermarket manufacturers. This is the type system that uses a throttle body bolted down in place of a carburator. If you're considering a dry flow injection system...well call me a pessimist, but I just don't see it based upon the cost and the relatively low market potential. It just won't allow a manufacturer to recover the R&D costs.

You can do your own dry flow system, but you are talking major fabrication and engineering to make it happen. Alternatively, you could get a mechanical injection set up converted to electronic metering but you better have deep pockets.:)

There are several companies which have fi setups for fe engines. Try www.gessford.com About $3000

What's the difference btween wet flow and dry flow?

There are two places that make a fuel injection setup for the FE.

I saw one at the Shelby exhibit at the Monterey Historic races last August - it looked like a Weber carb setup and was pretty pricey - the company name is Imagine Injection, Bob Ream or Wes Henderson, out of Phoenix AZ Tel: 602 249 1746 or 602 272 6474. It was very good quality from appearances.

The second place is Dan Fodge Engineering out of Rancho Cordova CA. I don't have his number but 1-916-555-1212 should be able to help!

Leon, your probably right, but remove the dust cover and inspect the flexplate teeth closely. Usually their is a spot that's worn or part of a tooth is broken off starting this agrevatiing delema when the engine stops in that particular spot. Sometimes if you let it go too long it also ruins the starter drive gear. making it difficult to determine which originally cause the problem. Most likely it was the flexplate if it's as old as the car. Good luck..

Check the engine code on the door.

n/m

The tbird had a 428 option from 1966-1968, at which point they changed to a 429. The last and only year of the tbird convertible and 428 was 1966. The engine code is Q in the vin. The 390 is Z code.

Linden, Try this test. Remove the water pump belt and the thermostat. Put the thermostat housing back in place. Fill with water up to the top of the thermostat housing. Start engine and watch to see if any bubbles start coming up into housing. If so, you have a cracked head or blown head gasket.

Probably need more history on the engine? How many miles since rebuild? How long has it been in the car? What you've done to it? When did the problem start? Is it using water? I'll guess and say if it's the orginal engine and has been in the car for many years and set quite a bit maybe slug has formed in the passages and bottom of the block and has caused poor curculation. I seen some so bad that the cylinder wall were at least have full of rusty looking mud. Some times their is a drain plug on each side of the block, but, years of setting can cause seizure of threads and getting them out is risky without twisting them off. Sometimes you can knock a freeze plug out and flush it out that way if you have access to them for easy installation. Really need more information about you engine to give a more acute guess. 59's are neat cars, hope you get it fixed..

when I bought the car, the engine was supposedly freshly rebuilt. I however wonder if it was block flushed? or if oversize pistons are my problem? As far as cracked heads or block, I don't think so as I have pressure tested it and also I checked the rad, ther are no bubbles in the coolant and it does have good flow from the pump. Thanks guys for the reply's. My quest goes on.

I had a 289 that puked out the radiator. I figured the head gaskets were blown, so I started to change them. When I got the heads off, I saw cracks in 7 cylinders. Crap! I bought a quick junkyard 302, and replaced the engine. I got it together, and guess what? It still puked out the radiator. I removed the radiator, and it was plugged with rust. I back flushed the radiator, and I got about a quart of rust out of it. After that, it didn't puke again.

I know you said you had a new 3-row, but the point I'm trying to make is that you may have an obstruction causing the puking. My best guess would be not enough flow, though (i.e. bad water pump)

You said that it pukes when you pull over and stop...do mean stop and idle or stop and shut it off?

Also, have you tried a new radiator cap?

How does it behave when you are driving down the road?

Have you had this problem from the day you got it or has it always done this?

n/m

There are apprx 8 diff versions of that carb Look on the front of the air horn for the List# and post it. Ex:R-4513-1aas