look into summit racing for your heads. They should have them available.

There is a gentleman in the Sacramento California area selling a set of Edelbrock FE heads.

He is asking around $800 for them and they are complete.

The phone number is 530 -626 8981

I have a brand new set of edelbrock #6006, complete heads. Never used. I decided to stay with my stock SCJ engine. I paid 1225.00 for them. Make me an offer, if it is reasonable, I will take it. I will handle shipping and insurance, so add about $75.00-$80 to your offer to cover it.

You will find the casting numbers in the books"How to Rebuild Big Block Fords"or "Ford High Performance Parts Interchange"

I think your block should have the D3-TE casting number which will be on the side of the lifter galleries and on the bottom outside of the block.
Ford stopped making 390's for cars in 71' but continued for trucks until 76'.

http://jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=4798&Reply=4776

Also note I've just learned that Hedman MIGHT make headers which port match FE emissions-era heads, such as are on your truck.

Shoe.

I was told my 73 F250 4X4 had a 390 and later found it was only a 360 and so I bought the 390 rebuild kit with crank, later I upgraded to the 428 crank. I've heard that most came with the 360, but that's just rumor.

The truck usually had lower compression than the cars and the HP of the stock 390 is about 265~315 with 427 TQ. The truck version with lower compression will have less. If you can look at the flywheel end of the crank, the square notch cranks are 390 the half-moon ones are 360.
Check http://www.ford-trucks.com for more info and they have a link to a VIN number place to check all the options.

The problem with ignitions, particularly point triggered, is that they don't have 100 percent success in actually initiating or sustaining combustion. What you want in improving your system is to increase the probability that your mixture will fire and the flame will propagate. Electronic triggers...optical, magnetic, or Hall effect give you a much-improved chance that there will be a field collapse in the coil. Whatever happens after that is subject to your entire ignition system capability. So, yes, a non-mechanical trigger such as the Pertronix will improve the chance that there will be a field collapse and if everything else is in order, a combustion event. The more you improve the chance that any or all cylinders will fire will improve power and economy. There will always be random misfires, but better ignition systems reduce the amount of random misfire.

If you really want to vastly improve your system, look into the Jacobs system. It feedsback the status of the combustion event and will continue to hit the plug until it either reads a good fire or the event has passed and tries again the next go around.

I have a 390 and installed a pertronix ignitor on my engine last summer along with an accel coil and wires and a larger cap and rotor. Huge difference in performance and fuel economy.

http://www.geocities.com/bozo_1974

Frank I've got the pertronix setup ( the ignitor unit and their Flame Thrower coil) in my '69 F100s 360 and in my '65 Mustangs 289 and its all true. My car went from 10mpg when i got it to 15mpg after I put in the unit , set the ignition timing and readjusted the carb. Same with the 360. It had a good 2brl card on it when I bought it and was only gettin between 8 & 10 mpg and after it shot up to 14 around town and over 15 on the road. They both picked up noticable power gains and response in all weather conditions. Proably the best $80 a piece I ever spent on them.

test

What casting heads do you have?
Manley # S-1518(10518) intake A-1521(10521) exhaust
Are the NHRA legal reaplacement for a 428.
You should be able to get a set from PAW, JEGS, or Summit for near $200 or less

Ed

I have a full set of Speed Pro Stainless Steel valves new in the boxes that I'm not going to use. They are 2.09 and 1.65 sizes and have swirl polished heads and chrome stems. The PN's are V8024R Exh. and V8026R Intake. I'll sell them for $125. I think I paid $200 or so.

nm

I'm not sure what all of them ran, but some FE's have steel stands and this would help with flex. Most of the setups that we have today seem to be made later than the FE hayday, but I would be interested to know some of the facts too.

I seriously doubt you can top what you've got in terms of economy. I've heard most 360's only get around 8-10 mpg STOCK. If you get such good mileage and wouldn't use the added performance the 4bbl offers, why would you even consider the costly and time consuming swap? The next question is what rate does the Edelbrock 4bbl flow on the two main barrels? I think factory 2bbl's have a max flow of ~350 CFM.

Al
Yes.....your highway mileage should improve with the change you are considering, BUT, it takes a lot of miles to make up the $500 price tag. If your carb is working well, and you are satisfied with the power, stick with your 2V. You may only improve a couple of points, and you may pick up some bad cold weather starting and warming up characteristics with the change, which would make your mileage worse during cold weather.

Ed

n/m

"1960-1973 Ford & Mercury Muscle Parts Identifier" says they are late 1963 406 headers for full sized cars. They apparently were also used on 63 and 64 427s in full sized cars. This is a generally reliable source, but is not 100% accurate. I'd guess they are probably right in this case, but I would try to confirm it with another source.

Someone is looking for a sucker. There doesn't seem to be much royalty in those part numbers.

Some C6ME-A blocks were cast with good features, but most have the plain mains and 360/390 cylinder sleeves - good stuff, but not worth a premium CJ pricetag. In itself, the C6ME-A doresn't say much, because Ford used that number in several different casting variations.

Shoe.

Do you hear the Engine rev. when the tach bounces. If not it's a probably a tach wire connection problem or ground with the tach. Maybe you knocked something loose while changing the vacuum advance. Not familar with the one you have, but, ususally they adjust by adding washers under the spring or different springs or by a allen head screw in the end through the vacuum hose connection. This adjustment usually only affects off idle dist. advance. I say if the engine is not reving when the tach bounces is probably a loose wire or bad ground.. Maybe you get some more opinions...