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![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=4875&Reply=4875><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>CAN post new posts! CAN'T post replys [n/m]</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>GalaxieFiveOhOh, <i>02/13/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=lIhYVYeLZitD6XlgNHhEdwcr2vZcMlGUo2kIr_fptQ_l8X6kW0xpEmGZbgupcOlreYQ8zTVqPQHktX2MtfGPIB3Emptk5O-RquRCtwpcfVEA3-gQTqy1gbDQ_ovVDlSv0&t=637814653746327080) |  CAN post new posts! CAN'T post replys [n/m] -- GalaxieFiveOhOh, 02/13/2001
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|  | An update got messed up. Try it now. [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/13/2001
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 | problems posting, anybody else having trouble! -- RC Moser, 02/13/2001
Having problems posting to messages, but the new post seems to work. maybe it's my old puter? |
| | My fault, guys. Should be Ok, now. [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/13/2001
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| 390 -- mike, 02/12/2001
How would a 390.. date coded Jan. 29th 1969,.....with a 428 CJ intake and exhaust manifolds compare with an orginal "s" code 1966 390?......oh yeah it has a '68 holley 4150 ..600 cfm too. |
| | Prob. somewhat stronger, but largely the same[n/m] -- Mr F, 02/13/2001
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| Headers for 390GT - 67 Mustang -- Steve Mason, 02/12/2001
Hello forumers
If anyone has any feedback on the $95.00 headers Crites Restoration is selling for the 390GT for a 67 Mustang w/ Auto & PSteering ....... I would like to hear from them. Are these cheap headers or worth the price ?
Can you recommend any other makers (& contact info) of headers for this car ?
Whose are easiest to install, I understand they are a tight fit and may involve lifting the motor to get in !
Thanks for any help or advice.
Steve |
| | try www.fordpowertrain.com -- Walker, 02/13/2001
They won't be $95. But they seem to have a good reputation. For quality and tight fits. |
| Valve job -- Ryan, 02/12/2001
I have a '74 F-100 w/ 390 and am going to pull the heads off soon to have the vales redone. I beleive this will be the first time it has ever been done! lOOKS LIKE IT ANYWAYS!? I was looking for someone out there to give me a little guidance on what to replace when doing this and how to know what sizes etc to go with. I will be changing the timing chain/gears and cam also. Maybe you know of some really good articles to read on the web? All help will be greatly appreciated!
http://www.geocities.com/bozo_1974/
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|  | RE: Valve job -- Steve Mason, 02/12/2001
Check out this web site for cams and it gives you also the recommended Valve Springs , etc.
www.cranecams.com
regards
Steve
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| |  | RE: Valve job -- Ryan, 02/12/2001
Checked it out! Perfect...just what I was looking for. Same brand just didn't think about looking at their web site! Thanks for the help!
http://www.geocities.com/bozo_1974/
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| | | RE: Valve job -- Ryan, 02/13/2001
Hey Steve, or anyone else out there! If you're still looking at this, then please help me with knowing what "valves" to buy for my 390? The heads are still original I think, and the "Crane Cams" website didn't have anything on this. Just the accessories. Thanks again.
http://www.geocities.com/bozo_1974 |
| | | | RE:69 mach1 need advice please! -- dale large, 02/13/2001
Sorry this isn't an FE qustion? But I hear a lot of good advice on this web site. Hear it goes, I have a 69 mach1 project car . I have a problem with the windows rolling up. Its like the window,dont fit the the jams right?? I dont have a lot of experance with that.. I moved the window on its track back and too and I think I might have tilted it up or down also. Could it be a wrong window ? how do I tell? The car is no cherry. The car has had a bunch of changes throug its years. Nothing org. In clueding A bad ass 428 w/ c-6 3.73 rear. any advice?? Hope nobody cares I got away with from an FE question!! thanks!! |
| | | | | Maybe it's hardtop glass! -- martin edridge, 02/13/2001
Are you sure the glass is for fastback? Maybe someone swopped on doors from a hardtop (same) but left the glass in (different) Is the fit close, or along way out, 'cos if it's a long way out, then I would bet it's got the wrong glass. You might be better off posting this in the General Forum, might get more replies. HTH
Cheers, Martin. |
| | | | | | RE: Valves & Glass -- Steve Mason, 02/14/2001
Hi Ryan
To answer your question on valves, unless the existing valves are burnt there is no reason to replace them. If they are burnt, then you can replace them with Ford Valves, same as what was in there to begin with. They are sturdy, and a good size, right from the factory. However you can make them work better !
When you are getting the Heads re-done, there are several Valve Grinds that you can get done, such as 3 angle, 5 angle etc. that will improve valve seating & performance. Talk to the fellow doing you r Heads re-work about this. He should have some options for you. There also some different Valve guide & seal options.
Aftermarket racing vavlves are fine, but, are you going to need them for some Bracket racing once in a while & otherwise Street use ? a waste of alot of money !!
Invest all that money in a good Manifold, Carb, & Headers.
That combined with a decent rear end gear ratio will launch you like no tommorrow (if you can keep the tires hookin-up).
Now, to address Martin's question about the window........ sometimes the device which lowers & raises the window gets old & crotchety (like me) and doesn't want to go up level, so it appears the window doesn't fit, but in fact it is just going up out of square so to speak. You will need to take off the door panels and inspect everything in the mechanism, and try to put it up & down while you are watching the mechanism. It is pretty straightforward and you should be able to tell if it is a broken part or worn part. Replace it !
Hope this helps !
Steve |
| | | | | RE:69 mach1 need advice please! -- Robert Mitchell, 02/17/2001
A solution to your problem with the glass is at hand, but will cost a few bucks too. In my experience, if the glass doesn't follow the profile of the door frame, its for another different application. 69 glass also easily becomes unglued from the channels that it uses to attatch to the regulator (the x-shaped mechanism inside the door). The best and most permanent fix, which I've performed several times, is to replace the glass with a set from a 70 fastback. Trick is, and it applies to all body styles, is that you MUST change the door glass, regulators and ancilliary internals, and in the case of non-fastbacks, the quarter glass also. Reason for this is the door glass is a different length and the door glass edge seal is different between the two years also. If you swap edge seals back to the original 69 style, nobody will know the difference. AND, you get bolt-in windows that will never come unglued and rattle around in the door again. By the way, the regulators are contoured and proportioned differently. Good Luck, Robert |
| 360 hop up -- Ace, 02/12/2001
Ive got a 360 in my '69 F100 and Im thinkin about hoppin it up. I want to stay with the 360 so no 390 crank/rods/pistons or other. Thinkin about the Edelbrock RPM heads,Intake and cam with a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb or a 625 CFM Road Demon. Also goin for headers. Any opinions on other parts? An estimate on HP/TQ/RPM #'s form some FE experts would be appreciated. This is a street truck so nothig to wild please. And what is the deal with this STANLEY SUPERIOR guy? |
| | RE: 360 hop up -- RC Moser, 02/14/2001
Ace, you probably need to price some of the aftermarket parts to see if it's worth the cost. If you want to do the 360 I suggest a mild upgrade in pistons to get the compression up to or around 9.0 to 1, A mild RV cam, and al. intake, if nothing else for the weight saving along. Then a good carb. The stock 4100s are good and easy to adjust and rebuild. Mybe some one else will suggest a good aftermarket carb. I heard of the demons, but personally have owned one. Now for the torque and HP I say a good guess would be around 290 HP and about 325 lbs of torque between 3000 to 3800 RPM. And probably done around 4800 RPM. As for Stanley pretty much don't like FEs, but, usually gives good advise. But, remember we are not buying the parts, so the hard decisions are up to you. Maybe this will spark some more responses disputing my theory's. |
| not to sound stupid...but... -- Anthony, 02/12/2001
What does "FE" stand for? |
| Intermitant smoke? -- GalaxieFiveOhOh, 02/12/2001
Ok guys, question for ya. When I start up in the morning I get a pretty good puff of blue smoke that I assume is from worn valve guides. But this only happens ocassionally. If the guides were worn wouldn't it smoke EVERY morning? |
| factory 427 Galaxie Station Wagons? + XL Wagons -- kevin t, 02/12/2001
Can anyone verify if any 427 wagons were built? The factory says no, but I've heard they made 5 in 1963 and 3 in 1964. Also, Do you guys remember the sport bucket seat option on the wagons? They didn't call them xl's, but they had XL seats with a different grain on the vinyl. I believe it was the Mercury Marauder grain. I've heard they only made around 100 of these and have only seen one in real life. I have pics of another. |
| 428 cj mustang heater motor shield info -- frank, 02/12/2001
Does anyone have any pics and info on how the heater motor shield bolts on? I just found one and was wondering if it goes on the studs on the firewall that hold the motor in place. I'm getting it shipped to me so I have not looked at how it should go on. If anyone has any good pic's please e-mail them to me. I know there's not a lot of room. Thanks for any help.
cj428mach@yahoo.com |
| | RE: 428 cj mustang heater motor shield info -- Morgan, 02/13/2001
e-mail me your address and I will try to send you a picture of at least a diagram.
Morgan |
| | | His eMail link is next to the post's title. [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/13/2001
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| | | | RE: Snail Mail address? -- Morgan, 02/13/2001
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| | | | | Oh - gotcha. ;-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/13/2001
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| | | | | | RE: CJ heater blower motor heat shield -- Robert Mitchell, 02/17/2001
Your guess is correct, and when you get the shield you will see. A 70 Mach 1 I just dismantled still had the heat shield, and as I recall, once I got the monkey-snot scraped off, it was attatched with nuts (with the integral floating lock washer) on top of the nuts already holding the heater motor. Double check with somebody who has a car at least from the same assembly plant as yours, and perhaps produced around the same time as yours, if this is a concours car. Good Luck and aloha, Robert |
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