See
http://www.theclassiccougarnetwork.com/

John

Heads should be Std. '68 360, 390, 428 (68 to 71 CCV). Block is alot harder to identify C8ME indicates it could be a 428, '68-'70, but trucks also had the same ID. My book says 390 IDs don't have the ME with the prefix C8. The suffix A indicates it's a orginal design meaning no changes. If you can you need to look at the crank, flywheel or flexplate. 428s were externally blanced and they have a thicker flywheel/flexplate with a counter weight attached. A 390/352 flywheel don't have the weight. I think the 428 std crank forging number was IU. About all I can do for you.

n/m

Sorry I hit new post instead of respond.

I ran your combo on desktop dyno2000 and here are the results:

HP = 348 @5000
Torque = 445@3000

This seems a little low but without flow numbers for the stock CJ head I had to pick a "canned" head file that I thought was close. Desktop Dyno claims +/- 7% on their accuracy. I suspect that with the actual CJ head flow numbers I would get 360-370HP.

I ran another sim using a compression ratio of 10.6:1(stk CJ):

HP =370@5000
Torque =465@3000

Again, with bettter head info this might very well have been 380+.

When you had flames in the carb,did it "kick back"? If so,then what happened is that the motor turned in the opposite direction momentarily,forcing the oil pump to pump backwards and forcing the oil out of the pump and pan and forcing it out the nearest path of least resistence. This is very common on FE's. Is it running fine now? Any popping,stuttering,or minor backfiring?

To me any time a engine backfires it's probably a timing or dist./ignition related problem or a outside change a carb. problem. First I'd check the points gap, cap, rotor, wires, Then, I put a dwell meter on it see if the dwell is within limits (means you got the points gap correct) then, I'd also put the NO.1 Cylinder at TDC with the rotor button pointing at #1 plug wire. Now look see how close the rotor aligns up with the #1 wire on the cap. Should be just before as your engine should be timed some where about 8 degrees before top dead center. ( timing chain could of slipped a tooth, if so the dist. will be off when you have it at TDC, not likely since the engine was recently rebuilt) This will give you a idea if the engine is close to being timed. As for the turning backwards that is a rare instantanious moment that usually occurs just as the engine dies, Once you hit the start it cranks it the normal direction, if the timing is off by what ever problem then that's to me is where you get the backfire. As for the oil leak, you are just going to have to get it running and find out where it's leaking if you can't see where it's coming from. Another posibility is that the dist clamp bracket bolt is loose alowing the oil to leak or the O-ring is bad as Stanley suggested. Their is a oil sending unit at the back of the block. Usually it is a elect signal, but., if you have a direct pressure gauge then this could be a the source of your oil leak. As for common on FEs to me it's not, Any engine that's out of time, ignition problem, or carb. problem will backfire through the carb. Hope this helps, post your findings in detail, I sure you will get some more responses with more actuate systoms.

Also, you stated that all your old fords are cold blooded. This is usually caused by choke adjustments not set correctly. Another cause is points pitted, worn or gap off. Old Ford carb. are easy to adjust and preform guite well in all seasons if properly adjusted. Their is a intial setting that's set for summer driving and a richer setting set for winter driving. If the car is set on summer setting usually two notches to the lean on the thermostatic housing this could cause hard starting in the winter due to the choke not closing all the way. On the other hand if the choke was set too the winter setting usually two notches to the rich then the engine will run rich when in the warm up mode. These setting has to be done when the engine is stone cold and the choke butterfly adjusted to where it just touches the carb. venturi housing. After you get that right you have to set the crack setting after the engine is started. This is usually about 1/8" gap this allow the right amount of air to enter the engine during warm up to prevent stalling (gap too wide) or sputtering (too rich, gap to narrow. After you get all these setting correct then you can adjust you fast idle usually around 1100 RPM. (This applys to most all carb. just have to figure out how to adjust, some you have to bend rods some have adjustment nuts/screws) All these adjustments are slightly different for different models, but usually real close to these numbers. My old ford will start at 25 below (no block heater) fire right up and will not die even if I put in gear and drive off. You just have to be able to determine what the problem is and adjust something to correct it. I seen guys buy aftermarket carb. trying to solve a adjustment problem. Even with aftermarket carb. and a elect. choke you still have to do the intial adjustments, if they are off you still have the same problem, cold blooded starts. Not all of this may apply to you but I figure too much information can't hurt. hope this may shed some light on cold starting problems.

I saw one on E-BAY today that was NOS part with tube. The current bid was $102.00. Here is the item number. If you can't find it type in FORD 390 on thier search engine.

Phill

E-mail auction item #552149319 to a friend
**NOS FORD 390 428 HEAT SHIELD WITH TUBE *NR

n/m

I'll take a stab at it and say the low 400 hp range. I assume you are running the stock cj cast iron manifold w/ a 735 carb. If so, and you are looking for an aluminum intake, you will be able to remove about 50-60 pounds off the nose of the car. If your not concerned with an original manifold, the Edelbrock 7105 would be a good choice, especially with the stick.
Rusty

I've had the same problem of excessive oil consumption. Without a doubt it is caused by too much oil to the heads and oil being sucked past the valve seals. Even new seals will leak if exesssive oil gets to the heads. Install restrictors in heads and ensure drip trays are installed. A compression check should reveal good compresion on your newly rebuilt engine, so the only place the oil can enter, if it's not past the rings, is down the valve guides or from the intake as you suspect. If the intake isn't leaking anti-freeze, then it shouldn't be leaking oil either. So Voila!, must be down the valve guides.

Phil- you can restrict the oil to the top as stated, but the real problem is the high volume oil pump. Unless there is a need due to excessive oil clearances on the rods/mains, you can get away with a standard Melling type pump. The oil pan can be literally 'pumped dry' from the high volume pump,and then you have real trouble. Also, you can use teflon type valve seals; that may help some. Get rid of that pump!-regards-Dave C.

Yes, 1967 was when the Power by Ford valve covers replaced the low, smooth pent roof valve covers used on the '66 GT/GTA 390 Fairlane.

I got to thinking about my response to your question Brian and it's very possible that if your '67 Fairlane GT is a early production GT, it could possibly have the low, pent roof chrome covers like the '66s had. The Power by Ford covers were an improvement in that they would allow adjustable rockers.

I think I do have one C6AE-R head, I'll check.
Rusty