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 |  casting nuber on 1964 block -- JoJo, 01/30/2001
What engine do I have the block says C4A8 6015-A, the manifold and carb are from a 1964 t-Bird and my exhaust manifold says C3 SE9430 B? |
|  | RE: casting number on 1964 block... -- Mr F, 01/30/2001
|
Most C4AE-6015-A units are 352 CID blocks, but this casting number was also used on a limited number of 427 blocks.
Before you get your hopes up, let's note that this latter possibility is longshot...., to say the least. Still, it will only take a few minutes to
check for crossbolts - a feature usually found only on 427s. Look for a long row of boltheads protruding just above the oil pan, on both sides of the block. Good luck. :-)
Mr F |
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| |  | RE: casting number on 1964 block... -- JoJo, 01/30/2001
I looked and saw no cross bolts. So do I have a 390 or 352 or a police interceptor engine as I have been told I might have ? Thank you for your time. |
|  | 1964 Engine -- Ed Foral, 01/30/2001
Do you have C4AE-G heads?
Ed |
| | | RE: 1964 Engine -- JoJo, 01/31/2001
Where exactly should I look because without pulling out the valve cover all I see is a cast number of 36. |
| | | | RE: 1964 Engine -- JoJo, 01/31/2001
I did some cleaning of the passenger side head and found lots of info. By the rear plug I found a 36, Then between the 2 center plugs I found 2 plates one says C4AE, the other has what looks like 00900 and at the front plug I have DIF. What does it all mean? |
| | | | | Clean a little more -- Ed Foral, 01/31/2001
Between the center two plugs is the number you are looking for.
The C4AE folowed by a 6090 and then a single letter will be on both heads. Look closely for the single letter. I am betting it is a G or if it is close to the edge of the screw casting it will look like a C.
This would confirm that it is a standard engine, probably a 390, but you should check bore and stroke to be 100% sure.
You mentioned that it had a T-Bird carb and intake. It is probably a 64 T-Bird 390.
Ed |
| | | | | | RE: Clean a little more -- JoJo, 01/31/2001
The screws won't allow to see the letters or numbers at the end of the plate. I have gold Mercury valve covers The casting number on intake is c4SE 9426 A. What do you think I have and how many horses? |
| | | | | | | Hmmm -- Ed Foral, 01/31/2001
What is the stamping on the carb tag?
Is the intake cast iron? That is not a standard 390 casting number. It looks more like a PI number.
What do the exhaust manifolds look like?
I can not even guess at this point on what engine you have for sure, because of the possibility of mixed parts.
You may have to tear down the engine to look at the internals before you know what you have.
Ed
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| | | | | | |  | RE: Hmmm -- JoJo, 02/01/2001
The intake appears to be cast iron and beefy. I guess. Someone else told me that I have a P I engine or 427 but I don't have a 427. I startted the car up A year ago one time and I never heard such a unique, hairy sounding engine. The casting number on the exhaust manifold is C3 Se 9430 B. I think that someone might have built a Frankenstein engine because of all the various casting numbers. I hope I really have a 390 and a credible one. |
| | | | | | | | RE: Hmmm -- JoJo, 02/01/2001
C4AFDG this what the carb tag says. This fun then I have to see what tranny I have, the saga continues. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Hmmm -- JoJo, 02/05/2001
Thanks for your help. This site is great. |
| Cooling system -- ANDY, 01/30/2001
I am currently running a 180 thermostat in a strong 390 (not a daily driver) and am considering a 160 to help lower underhood temperatures. Looking for feedback.
Also has anyone had experience with aluminium radiators?
Thanks
ANDY |
| | RE: Cooling system -- Brian Crisman, 01/30/2001
I have also a strong 390 and run a 180 degree thermostat with an aluminum Edelbrock water pump and Griffin aluminum radiator in a 67 Cougar GT. No overheating problems at all. The radiator helped the most. |
| | RE: Cooling system -- Will, 01/31/2001
Is it staying at 180 deg, or is it overheating?
If your radiator is keeping up, a lower t-stat may reduce the underhood temps. If it isn't, it won't.
If your timing is retarded, your underhood temps may soar. The reason is because the air/fuel may still be burning in the headers. If I have my timing retarded too far, I can feel the heat from the headers. I'm pretty sure the same thing will happen if you are running lean. |
| | | RE: Cooling system more -- ANDY, 02/01/2001
The temp goes a bit over 180 (slowly) at idle and high speed cruising. Always has even with the motor before this one. I thought I found enough sh it wrong with the old motor to explain it but obviously not. This motor is now in its third summer (its hot up here in Australia at the moment) and while its not a big problem it does scare me a little bit. The amount of heat it generates is incredible and in the tight Fairlane engine bay I am sure it gets into a viscious circle of sucking hotter and hotter air when its not moving. I run a 3 row up and down radiator rubber mounted top and bottom (maybe same as a 1970 Mustang,not sure) , engine fan, shroud, thermo fan(push), engine oil cooler, and trans cooler. I can look out the window on a mild day and see a heat haze rising from under the car from the headers (jet hot coated)(yes have tried different mixture settings). Mostly i thought the 160 thermostat might give me a little more grunt (mostly off the line) as the motor sucks a cooler charge. It has edelbrock rpm heads and manifold, lunati solid cam, oil mods and goes like fu.ck. I am very happy with it. Just looking for other experiences and info. Thanks guys. Great Forum! |
| | | | RE: Cooling system more -- T1M, 02/01/2001
Aren't pull fans more efficient than push fans? Do you have an electric push fan installed? In which case, could you reinstall your old motor-driven pull fan and use both in tandem; the electric push and the driven pull fan; for the extra cooling that would provide? |
| | | | RE: Cooling system more -- Will, 02/01/2001
An Aussie, hunh? How hot is it over there right now? We had planned on visiting Australia last year, but we didn't want to deal with the Olympic traffic. Maybe we'll do it next year.
It sounds like you've got a handle on what's going on. It also sounds like you've got a fun car. My guess to cool it down would be an alum radiator and/or better fans. Does it stay cool when you're going 35-50 mph? If so, you could try higher capacity fans and/or switching to suckers. If it overheats when you're moving 35 or so, you may want to replace your radiator.
There was someone on the forums a few months ago with a chronic overheating problem. He finally traced it down to a bad radiator. He had oil in his radiator in the past, but fixed the problem - blown head gasket or something. The oil reduced the cooling effectiveness of his radiator. He had overheating problems even though he had long since fixed the gasket. He replaced the radiator with a standard style, and his overheating went away.
You may also want to try an additive like Red Line's Water Wetter. I haven't used it, but I have friends that have and say it fixed their overheating problems. |
| | | | | RE: Cooling system more -- KarlJay, 02/01/2001
The Edelbrock alum water pump is a great upgrade, also if the rad is lower than the heads, get the overflow / filler neck that the Cobra kit cars use (it bolts on the intake and replaces the tstat housing) this helps to remove air from the head pockets.
the water wetter and ProBlends engine cool help a lot. They have additives for oil and water. Run about 25% coolant and the rest water, water cools better, antifreeze shouldn't be more than 30%, some run as little as 10~15%.
Look into different pullies. I had stock non A/C pullies and then did a conversion to stock A/C. The water pump and crank pullies have 3 grooves. The SIZE of the pullies is important! It causes the water pump to spin much faster at all rpms.
Also the fan shroud is very important, the fan should be about 1/2 in 1/2 out, and the shroud should cover the entire rad. |
| | | | | | RE: Cooling system more -- Jerry King, 02/01/2001
I have read a lot of post from different sites and talked to some of the best FE engine builders there are. They all say the same things, make sure you get all the air out of you coolant system, they even suggest putting a release plug in the top of the water pump, and get a aluminum griffin raditor. |
| Do I need the Heat Riser -- 66 LTD, 01/30/2001
I have a 66 LTD with a 390, stock exhaust manifolds but dual exhaust (one pipe for each side). I am running a Carter AFB with an electric choke. The current heat riser does not have the plate in it and is just a pass through. The car was originaly a 2bbl with the hot air choke system. Will fixing or replacing the Heat Riser valve improve my cold starts? If the car sits for a day with out being run it takes it a good ten to twenty seconds worth of cranking to get it started and it always lopes for a while before running smooth in high idle. I have replaced all the gas lines with metal ones and dont have any obstructions from the pickup in the tank to the carb. I initialy thought that was the reason for the long cranking. I am not an expert when it comes to fine tuning a carb so my problem could also be there.
Thanks |
| Toploader help -- Joshua Carroll, 01/30/2001
I bought a toploader transmission to put behind my FE 390 in my 66 F-100 and am having difficulty finding info on the transmission. The tag ID # is RUG CL. I think it is an Overdrive transmission but I am not sure. I also have no idea what it came out of and would love to know. Also if anyone knows where I can buy a good book on Ford manual transmissions I would appreciate it. Thanks. |
| | RE: Toploader help -- martin edridge, 01/30/2001
Skip over to the 429 PonyCar forum and look at 'Toploader Person' There is a link to a good Toploader site with info. Are you sure your box is RUG-CL? Not RUG-C1? This ID's as 67 Fairlane 390 close ratio box. Can't see RUG-CL there. HTH
Cheers, Martin. |
| | RUG-CL is a 3 spd. with O/D, mid-1970s. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/30/2001
n/m |
| | RE: Toploader help -- Greg R, 01/30/2001
In the mid '70s Ford put these transmissions in Granadas behind the 302. They may have been put into trucks too, I'm not sure. |
| | Thanks for help -- Joshua Carroll, 01/31/2001
Hey guys,
Thanks for the help! I am possitive the box is a RUG-CL not a RUG-C1. Does anyone have any experience with this tranny? I have read some criticism that these overdrive units are not as tough as a regular 4-speed toploader. However, I am not going to be drag racing my truck and it would be really nice to shift into overdrive on the highway! I have a fresh rebuild on the 390HP motor and I am making about 350HP so I want to make sure the tranny can at least hand street abuse. Thanks.
Josh |
| | | Yes - they're a bit flimsy, so take it easy. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/31/2001
n/m |
| | | RE: Thanks for help -- Will, 01/31/2001
I wouldn't use it, personally. We had one when I was a teenager. It was behind a 300 six on propane. Converting to propane reduces the power output by about 15-20%.
Granted, it was a truck, and it saw many loads of wood, rocks, etc., but the trans gave out after about 70,000 miles. I don't remember what went wrong. I just remember replacing it with a Mustang 3-speed.
I think this was mentioned a few months ago, though, and someone else had good results with his.
My opinion is that trans work is nasty enough not to have to deal with it twice. |
| 68 Galaxy -- Matt Prahm, 01/29/2001
I have a 68 galaxy and I was wondering if anyone could tell me where i could find a fan shroud for that. I have been looking for some time now and i have had no luck. thanks. |
| | RE: 68 Galaxy -- T1M, 01/30/2001
Hemmings Motor News ( publication).
Search eBay.com.
AutoKrafters ( you have to send for their catalog-free). Even try a junkyard.
That's my two cents |
| cut baffle under intake -- geo, 01/28/2001
hello fellows,
while changing the intake on my 65 390 I noticed that the tin baffle appears to be cut width-wise at the front of the block. I was wondering wether this was a factory practice or a rebuild technique. I experience a somewhat signifigant amount of oil leakage through the distributor gasket and think that this could be attributed to the fact that the baffle might have been altered for some reason. If any of you can help me solve this mystery I would be greatfull.
geo |
| | RE: cut baffle under intake -- T1M, 01/28/2001
Isn't the gear that drives the distributor connected to the oil pump? Could that relationship have something to do with your oil leakage?
I'll check my intake (which is off right now) to see if it has a cut like that. I have a 68' 390 2V. But I was under the impression that tin pan just kept the temprature directly under the carburator down.
|
| | I can't see why that might cause significant oil loss [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/28/2001
n/m |
| | | RE: I can't see why that might cause significant oil loss [n/m] -- geo, 01/30/2001
it's not really significant, it just exists. And when it exists i consider it significant.
BUT...
Mr.F: do you know what I'm talking about? Have you seen the cut baffle? Would it hurt to locate or fabricate a baffle that doesn't have the cut in it so as to totally elliminate the leak? OR is it cut for a good reason (airflow, lube?) and I have to live with it?
sorry to bother you with such seemingly paltry concerns when I know other q's prove much more interesting, but an answer would be greatly appreciated.
geo
ps and T1M, have you taken a look at yours yet, does it seem to be cut? |
| | | | Ok, then - let's try that again... (Was:RE: I can't see why) -- Mr F, 01/31/2001
it's not really significant, it just exists. And
when it exists i consider it significant.
Well, that's perfectly understandable.
But I used the word "significant" to make a
point. If you're merely losing oil between changes and can't figure out why,
then this baffle thing strikes me as a red herring. Start by looking at the
seals and rings, first....they're far more likely as suspects. And if you
have visible signs of leakage, then I still can't see how the
baffle could be involved.
Mr.F: do you know what I'm talking about?
Have you seen the cut baffle?
Can't say that I'm sure exactly what you're talking about, but I think
I get the basic idea. Even so, its not that easy - some factory baffles
appear "cut" but aren't. And many of those on multi-carb HP intakes
always have large, stamped cut-outs. Beats me why, but I think we can assume
there's no great risk in letting some oil
hit the intake, during
normal operation.
Would it hurt to locate or fabricate
a baffle that doesn't have the cut in it so as to totally elliminate the
leak?
I
don't see how that would help. Again, I think any "leak" must be considered as a
completely separate issue from the baffle. Hope this points you in a better
direction.
Mr F
|
| | RE: cut baffle under intake -- Will, 01/31/2001
If you're talking about the lifter baffle, that couldn't cause an oil leak. The lifter baffle looks like a windage tray. It is sheet metal, and is held down by the heads (or little tabs on the head gasket) It doesn't cover the entire lifter valley. It stops a few inches short of the distributor. It was that way from the factory.
The only purpose of the lifter baffle is to shield the bottom of the intake from oil. That reduces the temp of the intake and improves power. It is also completely sealed inside the engine. It couldn't cause a leak any more than a lifter could cause a leak.
I don't know why you are loosing oil. A possibility, though, is the cork gasket under the intake, right behind the distributor. That might make it appear to be coming from the distributor. |
| | RE: cut baffle under intake -- Pat in Rescue, 01/31/2001
If you had your intake off, it is very possible that you did not properly re-install it. The distributor hole in the intake manifold must be pretty closely lined up with the distributor hole in the block. If this isn't done you will get oil leaking past the distributor seal.
I am running a roller cam and therefore removed the baffle you are talking about. It doesn't leak a drop.
Hope this helps. |
| | RE: cut baffle under intake -- geo, 02/01/2001
thanks guys,
the issue was really just a curiosity on my part, although i thought it might have contributed to some oil loss. Will got it right, I was talking about the lifter baffle, sorry for any confusion. The problem that is most likely contributing towards oil leakage is the compression leak I have, causing much oil blow-by. As Mr F says, I've got bigger problems that cost more $ than the 'red herring' of the lifter baffle.
thanks again
'just a shmuck'
geo |
| roller cams in a SCJ -- Bob C, 01/28/2001
I am restoring my 70 SCJ-R Sportsroof Mustang and am contemplating the addition of a roller cam/rockers combination to reduce friction/heat. It will be restored as a concours driver so it will see some show time and some cruising time. I am curious about what combination would be best and if the roller rocker set-up would fit under the stock aluminum valve covers. What difficulties lie ahead for installation of roller rockers on stock CJ heads? |
| | RE: roller cams in a SCJ -- mark, 01/28/2001
Don't know about the rockers, but have been researching doing a 428
for a Cobra and have found that www.cranecams.com has just come out
with roller cams that have distrib gears that are compatible with
stock distrib's, and there are "milder" versions of the cams - many
times the roller cams are all pretty radical and not very streetable. |
| | RE: roller cams in a SCJ -- Dave, 01/28/2001
Mine fit no problem at all |
| | | RE: roller cams in a SCJ -- Bob C, 01/28/2001
Dave,
What are you using in your CJ? |
| | | | RE: roller cams in a SCJ -- Dave, 01/28/2001
Edelbrock aluinum heads, Dove roller rockers and valve train, pent roof valve covers, I know alot of people running what your planning on doing no problems at all using Harland Sharp roller rockers or Ford Power Parts Rollers either. Call Dove performance in Ohio 440-236-5139 they will fix you up with comp cams roller cam for what ever you want mild to wild talk to Earl. By the way comp cams roller rockers are made by Dove. |
| | | | RE: roller cams in a SCJ -- Royce Peterson, 01/28/2001
I would stay away from converting to a roller cam for a mild engine show / driver. It's very expensive and won't give you any benefits over a flat tappet cam in that application. Roller rockers are a straight swap if you use the Harland Sharp units from either Summit (1-800-230-3030) or Ford Power Parts. I have HS rollers on my 427 GTE with stock valve covers and FPP on the 68 1/2 CJ also with stock valve covers.
Royce Peterson
68 427 Cougar GTE (two)
68 1/2 Cougar 428 CJ |
| | | | | RE: roller cams in a SCJ -- Rusty, 01/30/2001
I agree with Royce, the roller is not going to give you a lot in this application.
Rusty |
| '69 Mach 1: FMX w/ 351 Windsor to C-6 w/ 428 CJ? -- Donald, 01/28/2001
Hi,
I've been thinking about buying a '69 Mach 1 but I saw it is on sale with FMX w/ 351 Windsor. I wonder if it can change to C-6 w/ 428 CJ? If so, how difficult or expensive? I don't know how to do it and I may have to put it in the shop. Need feedback ASAP. Thanks.
Donald |
| | RE: '69 Mach 1: FMX w/ 351 Windsor to C-6 w/ 428 CJ? -- Will, 01/28/2001
I would think your biggest expense will be the 428CJ & transmission. The rest is mostly just buying parts.
The radiators are different (I think). The exhaust is different. The driveshaft yokes are probably different. I know the C-6 has the large yoke, and I think the FMX has the small yoke. The shifter shouldn't be a big deal. The Mach 1 should have a 9-inch rear, so that should be okay. I think the motor mounts will fit, but you may need to drill a hole through the frame mount.
You may have to change the sway bar. I learned in my car that there's a big block bar and a small block bar. The big block oil filter hits the small block car. My car is a 67, so maybe it's different on a 69, but I doubt it. You could also use a different oil filter adapter to solve that problem.
The 428 cars had reinforced shock towers. That's not absolutely necessary, but it's a good idea even on a 351 car. There's a kit that some of the Mustang shops sell that does a good job on the towers. I didn't do that on mine. Instead I made some of my own.
You will probably have to change the front springs too.
With all things considered, unless you're getting a great deal on the 351 car, you'd be better off buying an R-code Mach 1. The up-front cost will be more, but the resale will be much higher. I've seen lots of R-code Mach-1's in the $9-$11K range. |
| | RE: '69 Mach 1: FMX w/ 351 Windsor to C-6 w/ 428 CJ? -- Dave, 01/28/2001
the 428 will fit, the shock towers on the big blocks are beefier than the small blocks and the front springs would have to be changed. I did the same to a 69 cougar years ago and had to get the tranny mount modified and the drive shaft shortened, other than that it shouldn't be a problem. That 351 in the car now is a good motor 290 horse I believe, value wise you might be better off leaving it alone. Dave |
| 390 4v heads -- Bob Ward, 01/28/2001
I have a set of 390 4v heads out of 1970 pick up. I also have a set of 390 GT heads whith the 14 hole flange. I have read where there is a problem matching headers to the GT heads. I was wondering if I would be better off using the 390 4v heads. Can any one tell me the difference in the two heads or what header I need to match up to the GT heads. Thanks in advance. |
| | RE: 390 4v heads -- Royce Peterson, 01/28/2001
Dear Bob,
The 390 GT cast iron exhaust manifolds will not bolt to the pickup heads unless you have them drilled and tapped for the GT bolt pattern. The GT head is drilled with both passenger car and Mustang/ Cougar/ Fairlane /Cyclone patterns. All of the available aftermarket tube headers bolt to any FE head and any FE cast iron exhaust manifold will bolt to the GT head.
Royce Peterson
68 427 Cougar GTE (two of them)
68 1/2 Cougar 428 CJ |
| | | Casting number question. -- Dave Shoe, 01/30/2001
Hey Royce,
If you get a chance, could you post info on the casting numbers on your heads? I've never yet seen a 427GT/E head and am curious what numbers they put on them (I've read it in books, but never heard it first hand from an owner). Also, if there are any large characters or numbers between the other spark plugs I'd be interested in hearing about it. Symbols like CF , DIF, or MCC would also be of interest to me.
Thanks,
Shoe. |
| | | | RE: Casting number question. -- Royce Peterson, 01/30/2001
Dear Dave,
I sold the only real pair of GTE heads that I owned. They were C80E-J with casting date 7M10 on both heads. I did not make note of any other marks. These heads were identical to CJ except the exhaust bolt pattern was 14 bolt GT style.
I have several friends with GTE's and their original heads are C80E-H. All casting dates on their blocks are from August to November 1967 on these 427 Side Oilers.
Hope this helps,
Royce
|
| | | | | RE: Casting number question. -- Dave Shoe, 01/30/2001
Cool info. Thanks.
Shoe.
|
| | | | | | RE: Casting number question. -- JoJo, 01/31/2001
I see you were interested in the letters DIF. What do they stand for? |
| | | | | | | DIF = Dearborn Iron Foundry -- Dave Shoe, 02/03/2001
DIF=Dearborn Iron foundry
most FE iron was cast there early on
CF = Cleveland Foundry
birthplace of 351C and the place where some FE stuff started to get cast in the later 60s
MCC = Michigan Casting Center
birthplace of the 351M and the place where FE stuff sometimes got cast in the '70s. Yup, you can forget what clueless writers have said in the past, the "M" behind 351 stands for the foundry of origin.
S (sort of a backwards "Z" shape) = Sheffield Aluminum Works (or something like that)
Place where most early FE aluminum stuff was cast
SI = I'm just hypothesizing now, but I suspect the "$" on the forged steel cranks might be a foundry identifier.
Shoe. |
| | | RE: Found this by using our "Search" feature.... -- Bob Ward, 01/29/2001
Hey guys appreciate your help. The heads that I have, the ones I think I would like to use is a C8AE-H casting with more than 8 holes i have not counted them but it is more holes than normal. Bought them at a swap meet and was told they were 390GT. I have purchased a set of Headman header. Can I expect to have poor flow or poor gasket match or both? |
| | | | RE: Found this by using our "Search" feature.... -- Dave Shoe, 01/30/2001
C8AE-H came in every FE car or FE truck engine from 1968 to 1971, the only exception being 427 and Cobra Jet motors. There was no difference in the head casting whether you had a 360-2v or '68-'70 428 PI.
It's actually a really strong performance head up to about 400HP, and especially in the smaller (360/390) FE motors - provided you match up to the right intake and headers. The new "emissions" runners, mandated since 1966 were smaller than the '65-earlier heads, but they look a whole lot smoother flowing in the pocket area.
The 14-hole pattern indicates it came from a Fairlane/Mustang car, not that it's from a 390GT engined car. The same head and bolt pattern was used in 390-2V Fairlanes and 390P-2V (premium fuel) Mustangs. The 390GT did get different valve springs, but that's about it. also, there was no 390GT motor in 1969, so it may have come from a 1969 GT-optioned car, but it would then have the plain FE springs. Sorta confusing, but really sorta simple, too.
The C8AE-H head would be drilled at the factory for either the 8-bolt or 14 bolt pattern. The 8-bolt version (Galaxie/pickup truck) can also be drilled for the 16-bolt CJ pattern if you wish (drill no deeper than the factory holes), though the "-H" exhaust ports sit 5/16" lower on the head than an actual CJ head, making CJ-compatible headers incompatible.
Headmans will flat not port match to those heads, whether 8 or 14 bolt, and the probability that the header gaskets will leak is very high due to improper gasket crush along the bottom.
I agree with Mr.F that there are other good hints in the archives. Search out "C6AE-R", C7AE-A" and "C8AE-H" heads and you may find some other tips: some bad, some good.
JMO,
Shoe. |
| | | | | RE:SHOE....C8AE-H heads............ -- Mike, 02/02/2001
Shoe,
I have C8AE-H heads on my Fairlane GT ( 66 ) ...I also have a 428 CJ intake on it...# C80E 9425-C...and 428CJ exhaust manifolds? # C8OE - 9430-A (right side)......If I remember the exhaust only bolts up on the back exhaust port of the head (on top) and on the "sides" of the other three?...can't see about the bottom....... |
| | | | | | RE:SHOE....C8AE-H heads............ -- Dave Shoe, 02/02/2001
If I recall correctly, the passenger side CJ uses all 8 "side" bolts.
The driver side CJ uses 7 "side" bolts and also the top rear.
Also from memory (so it might be wrong): Note that the CJ's driver side top-rear bolt is located in the standard FE position, but 67-69 390 Fairlane/Mustang exhaust manifolds use a hole position which is about a quarter inch lower than standard. Note also that the '66 Fairlane 390 exhaust manifolds use all 16 side bolts and none on top or bottom.
Shoe. |
| | | | | | | RE:SHOE....C8AE-H heads............ -- rick, 08/12/2001
this head stuff is driving me crazy (-: - i can find the
c ae on the middle ports of my 68 390gt motor but i can't find a # ?- there's no #6 or#8 which i expected to find! where else can i look-or what am i doing wrong- before i go and change to 428 heads i want to know what i have--and if i go to 428 cj heads do i want only the c8oe heads or c80z - and whats the diff? thanks. |
| 427 aluminum block -- Dave, 01/28/2001
I'm going to pick up a Ford aluminum block that was for a cammer. Anyone know anything about these or what the value of one may be? I know what the book say's, they are the same as any side oiler block but the have added oil returns in the back of the block. Thanks in advance Dave |
| | are you going to try to make it a cammer? [n/m] -- T1M, 01/28/2001
[n/m] |
| | | RE: are you going to try to make it a cammer? [n/m] -- Dave, 01/28/2001
No cammer just a 490+ cu in all aluminum motor for my 66 fairlaine. |
| | RE: 427 aluminum block -- ANT, 01/29/2001
You should try to make it a cammer. It is pretty rare and I wouldn't use this block for a radical motor because its just too risky due to the rareness. I don't know much about the block other than the fact it has the oil drainback for the heads in the back. They might be more reinforced? But can definitly handle tons of power considering the fact that they would host well over 1,000 hp in A/FX mustang and mercury cyclone funny cars. |
| | RE: 427 aluminum block -- Dave Shoe, 01/29/2001
Was it made by Ford or is it an aftermarket block?
If it's a gennie Ford aluminum item (contracted by Ford), you should photograph the heck out of it (in detail) and post the photos, as this is a rare piece and would be fun for many to inspect.
Shoe. |
| | | RE: 427 aluminum block -- Dave, 01/29/2001
Its supposed to be a Ford block |
| | | | RE: 427 aluminum block -- Dave Shoe, 01/30/2001
Do you know if it has any date code or part numbers on it?
If it is a Ford block, it'd probably NOT have a regular "Ford type" number on it, as it's be a "special order" and may have only been "painted" with a long-lost SK number or something like that.
No matter what type of block it is, it'd be interesting to hear details about it. I suspect it's not a modern Shelby block, as those are easy to identify, and though it might be a Dove block, there is reasonable chance it's something more unique and lost to time.
Heck, if nothing else, you can probably learn exactly what type of block it is. This'll make defining it's value much easier.
Shoe. |
| | | | | RE: 427 aluminum block -- T1M, 01/30/2001
From the post, it seems he knows it to be a cammer block. I'm guessing that he simply didn't have the cammer heads and other stuff. I agree, go all out and make it a cammer. Or at least save it until you can find the right parts. I dunno. |
| | | | | | RE: 427 aluminum block -- Dave, 01/30/2001
It belongs to a guys friend I have delt with for a part here and there for he has been racing the FE almost longer than I have been alive. He told me they were orignial Ford cammer blocks, not Dove, he runs their parts. I have found out Ford made 2 differnt blocks the second one was called the canam block that was supposed to be better. No cammer for me my buddy runs them monsters, I have all the parts to make a all aluminum 490+ cu in 427, besides the fact I won't cut up the Fairlane.It will be about a month or so before I lay my hands on it, its down south somewhere and Its supposed to be picked up in the next couple of weeks. Dave |
| | | | | RE: 427 aluminum block -- Tim, 01/30/2001
The Ford aluminum cammer blocks I had seen were wet sleeved. I came close to buying one in 1972. The problem was that the sleeves were missing. It would have been too expensive to have new sleeves made. I don't know what he's paying for it. (it can't be cheap) I would rather leave that block for a collector and spend my money on a Shelby block. The Shelby benifits from better casting techniques and other improvments such as double cross bolts and additional cross webbing in the valley area. |
| | dave shoe please contact me -- Tom, 01/31/2001
ANDERSENBUILDERS@PEOPLEPC.COM Hey Dave I have a couple of q's for you. |
| | | RE: dave shoe please contact me -- Dave Shoe, 01/31/2001
Done.
Shoe. |
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