What parts are you looking for? Crank and pistons are diff. Rods the same. For external parts, I would think that most things will swap. Heads, intakes, exhaust manifolds (depending on the heads), distributors, carbs, pulleys etc. The one thing that will not swap is the balancer (the wheel on the front of the crankshaft). Some of the guru's here can be more specific, but that's off the top of my head.

general parts are failey comon, hp heads and some hp factory intakes,may be hard to find, what do you nead?some one hear can point you in the right direction.

C7AF-12127-AA

’67 390 2V, 270hp, Auto, Reg. Fuel, Ford, Merc.
’68 390 2V, 265hp, Auto, Reg. Fuel, Ford, Merc, Fairlane, Cougar, Montego
’69 390 2V, 265hp, Auto, Reg. Fuel, Ford, Merc.
’70 390 2V, 270hp, Auto, Reg. Fuel, Ford, Merc.

http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=207929&Reply=207929

made my own using a 428 crank in my 390, came to out 416, but scat has kits now for these that have a 4.25 stroke for 431ci or 454ci i think with a 428 block. just like the old saying theres no replacement for displacement

The plain standard hood did not have them.

These guys can give a better and more detailed answer.

http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/

You have me thinking..dangerous..If there is .007" at 2" from center, then .007 X 14.0 (radius of the tire and wheel) equals .098 of an inch. Doesn't sound like much. What do you think? I would just try another wheel and tire and see if the wobble changes. Just my 2 cents

That small amount is all it takes to make your brakes, or the seal not work properly. In other words it is bad enough to not leave it like it is and just forget about it.

Also, you really should check the tire wobble near the outer edge and see just what the tire is having to go through. In my opinion if you can rotate a tire and wheel on a car and see it wobble with your naked eye, then it needs to be fixed. A tire just will not last anywhere close to what it should at the point.

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i,s hard to say i,d pull the plugs and look at them. and see if it,s burning oil thear or passing oil by the exaust guids, did thay install the oil deflector tin for the valves?may be a bad vacume modulater on the transmission sucking trans fluid making it smoke?

http://www.jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=16609&Reply=16609

Won't the engine pull in oil if the intake gasket is not sealing properly? Might get lucky and find this is the problem instead of the rings.

Switch from Synthetic....rings will never seat..and put in the restrictors in the heads. Use a 70-90 holleys jet will just drop in. The HV pump really pushs the oil around. If you check the oil level and then run the engine for abit, Shut it off and recheck the oil right away the old level will be lower and after it sits it will go back to normal. After the oil problem stops you can go back to synthetic. I use HV pumps also and it will flood the valves without the restrictors.

If the problem comes and goes, then probably a sticking float needle, or dirt in carb. Holley's usually come with jets that are OK.....1 or 2 sizes rich to be safe.

Surging when the throttle is held in one position indicates your timing is retarded.

Royce

i had may times with fuel line prob,rubber falling apart,or steel lined scalining internaly,the stuff passed thru and lodged in the metering block passages,and had to scrap a block or two.and i could never figure out how it passed thru the fuel screens?,and the bad one is on the cj.gt carb metal line feeding the rear float bowl it's after all the filters,and over advance,or points set wrong,specialy dauls also can do it,and idle mix adjustmentis a culprit too,before you go nuts ,check with a vacuum gauge,will help you a lot in trouble shooting,take a reading before you start anything then compare that reading as you progress

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