Perhaps 7 qts. isn't enough oil. Do you have room for more, like maybe 10 qts? Upon acceleration you would see an oil pressure drop on the guage, worse case it would go to zero. I had the same problem with my 67 Fairlane/427, cured the oil press. problem with a deep sump 10 qt, windage tray and baffles. If your crank needs to be turned again .040" bearings are available. As to the rings lining up, thats common as the rings can "travel". Unless you are running excessive spring pressure the cam should be ok to reuse but replace the lifters for use in new block.

I sent this directly to John, but figured some of the other guys might like to use (or attack) it. So here it is

These are the mods I do to FE's, knock on wood, never an oiling problem yet. This assumes 2 things. Good alignment of the mains, and good cam bearings. Also be absolutely certain you prelube the motor for fire up. What I do is assemble using a mix of STP oil treatment and oil on all the bearings, hand pump the mixture through the oil pump, them prime it with a drill just before fire up and continue to prime until I see some oil bleed by a rocker, dont need much, but once its there its everywhere.

1.  Open passage from pump to filter housing to 1/2 inch.  Can be done by hand, drill follows stock hole very easy.
2.  Bevel holes on each end of galley if needed for no step in direction of oil flow.
3.  Run 68 or newer filter housing, its revised and has bigger holes.  Any 68 or newer, even 360 trucks
4.  Match main feeds to each bearing, usually FE's have multiple holes so its not a problem
5.  Run on the loose side of tolerance for rod side clearance
6.  2.5 or so for mains and rod brg cleance (I like middle of road, stock clearance)
7.  Bevel oil feeds in crank, just clean up, if desired small notch when beveling toward backside of rotation for oil "drag"
8.  Beneath rocker stand with oil feed, press in small alum rod (approx 1/4 inch dia)  and drill .090 hole to restrict rockers, also used Holley jets, cable nuts with screw removed, or anything else I could stuff in there :) (Street car its still OK, too much oil goes there, really, FE's dont like to return oil fast enough, plus mains are fed second, this will force more to mains)
9.  Clean up all  flash in block to allow quick return to pan
10. HV pump may empty pan on hard accel consider baffled pan
11.  Run a HD drive from Ford Motorsports or FPP

Standard FE mods, I do it on everything from trucks to my 427

use a small wooden dowel through a spark plug hole to measure the stroke from top dead center to bottom dead center

Check out //pliverman.home.mindspring.com/inde/2.htm for good listing
of major FE part #'s & app's, also check out
//network.com/Hide/Forum/21142

I saw one like yours. Shiny black. Big fat tires. It must've had headers considering how loud it was. It sounded good though. It kind of looked like Steve McQueens car in "Bullit". The only difference being this one was jacked wayyy up high. A German site on the movie said that McQueens car had a 390GT. Is yours a 68'?
Good luck Tim

http://members.nbci.com/Brat360/FEs.html
at the bottom is a link to "my 360"
http://members.nbci.com/Brat360/My360.htm

what is says is:
"My 360

My 360 is just a little hop-up of a 360 for my 1968 F100 Shortbox

It has:

A Crane 272 Maximum Velocity Hydraulic Cam 272/284 .533/.563 218/224@.05

Cast Pistons with what appears to be a stock 8:1 compression-- I intended to have 10:1 but I guess that didn't happen but if I had a 390 crank and rods it would have been 10:1

Stock 360 Rods with Milidon rod bolts

D2TE-AA heads which I ported on the intake and exhaust

Offenhauser Hi-Rise single quad 360 degree intake

Holley 700 CFM Double Pumper

Stock replacement adjustable rocker arms

Stock 1971 360 Block bored .04 over

Stock Cast crank turned .01 under on rods and mains

I only did one real block oiling improvement and that was to open up the oil passage to the main bearings

Hedman Headers

Dual 3" Flowmaster with 3" pipe all the way out under the rear bumper

Mallory Unilite Vacuum advance distributor

Computer Dyno estimated power figures: 366 horsepower at 5750RPM and 377 ft-lbs of torque at 4500RPM"


If I would have had 10:1 compression the guy i had run the computer dyno said:
"411 hp at 6000 with 411 ft-lbs at 4500 with 10:1 compression. This has a very flat torque curve with the cam you mentioned. 357 ft-lbs at 2000 and 360 ft-lbs at 6000"

According to my '68 Ford truck shop manual, the 360 used in the F100/F250 had 2.02 intake valves and1.55 exhaust valves. They had .427 lift on the intake and .430 on the exhaust side. They used a variable duration cam with 256 degrees on the intake and 266 on the exhaust.. The book says this combo makes 215hp@4400 and 327ft-lbs@2600. My DesktopDyno 2000 says that should make 228hp@4500 and 328ft-lbs@3000. Now using the same program, we add your combo. We take the dual plane intake, 600 cfm carb, stock heads and mild cam (268 duration, . 494 lift). This gets you 250hp@4500 and 329ft-lbs@3000. Add headers to this combo and you get 285hp@4500 and 364ft-lbs@3500. That's 57hp 36ft-lbs over stock numbers. And if you haven't done it yet, get rid of the points and get you a Pertronix electronic ignition. It is money well spent and they are simpler than points to install. Plus they are worth at least another 500rpm on the top end

First off, you've got the good heads for that motor (I correctly assume they are C8AE-H castings, check between the center sparkplugs to be sure). These are small runner "emissions" heads, which are shaped really efficiently for torquey small displacement FEs that don't need to hit the 11-second bracket. Nearly all FEs since 1968 got this head (or the approximately identical D2TE-AA), and most since 1966 did.

390GT and 428PI heads are identical to yours except for stiffer valve springs because of the hotter GT/PI cam. Some 390GT and 428PIs got nice pre-emissions-style C6AE-R castings (available in '66-'67 only) with large runners, but most did not, and all from the last year of the 390GT motor, '68, got the high-velocity "emissions" runners. To be sure, the 390GT is not a motor you want to pattern your's after, as it was choked at the intake manifold, and was especially stuffy at the exhaust. Also, the lame 390IP of 1969 (which replaced the 390GT and came in GT-optioned 390 cars) was no different from your motor, except it had 30 extra cubes, a little more compression, a larger Autolite carb, and some marketing hype tossed inot the weird "Improved Performance" (over stock) name.

Note: all '65-earlier FE heads have larger pre-emissions runners, much like C6AE-R and CJ heads.

An Edelbrock Performer manifold is not a good way to go, as it's just an aluminum version of a stock manifold, IMO. You want the Edelbrock Performer RPM or an iron 428CJ or alum 428 PI intake to open up the intake side. A 600 CFM 4V Autolite carb (not a 450 CFM 4V Autolite) is probably the best carb for your motor. Those things kicked ass in the 428PI motors of that year. alternately, a 600CFM Holley would fit just right. I don't play with other carbs, so I can't give my patented bad advice for any others. Beware, most 428PI intakes are worn out and overpriced, so the Ed RPM or CJ iron route is generally best.

On the exhaust side, you want headers (your log exhausts are actually better breathing than stock 390GT manifolds). The most important parameter to know here is that you've got "emissions" heads which have the low-exit exhaust port (same size port, just lower on the head), so you need the low-exit style of header flange on your headers, or else you are asking for gasket leaks (bad gasket crush) and non-optimal performance (severe turbulence at the 5/16" port mismatch). FPA (fordpowertrain.com) probably has the best headers (quality and design) for your application. Hooker and Hedman do not have any headers with your emission flange, even though their book claims the headers will fit. Be sure to order the low-flange type, as FPA offers both types. Don't worry about the mufflers - keep quiet ones on for drivability. You won't find any performance improvement with loud mufflers. Hey, the power comes at the headers.

You can easily add CJ-sized valves to your heads for a little more flow.

I'm not a Camshaft guru, and there are many folk with great advise in this area, so I won't chime in here. Wait a minute...Yes I will. Obviously, when replacing a camshaft, you'll have to replace the lifters, as they lose their sphericity after only a short time and become set to a specific cam. A warmer cam will also require stiffer springs, which means you'll have to toss your low-perf valve rotators and install regular retainers, which means your valves will need to be replaced due to valve lock positioning, dot, dot, dot. You'll want to but a "cam kit", as well as some nice cheapo CJ-sized valves if you wanna actually complete the job. I guess I'm saying you can expect to replace the cam, lifters, timing chain, valves, springs, retainers, and locks. Pretty standard and cheap stuff, but not always what you'd see in the planning stages.

One more thing, modern camshafts are far superior to '60s cam grinds. For one, they have faster ramp speeds because improved valve spring material allows faster ramps. The problem is these faster ramps cause added rockershaft flexing. This is no idle problem, as many FE folk, myself included, know all about breaking rockershafts. Flexing shafts also reduce power. The basic fix is not a stiffer shaft, but a rockershaft end-support kit (FPP is one place to look). Next, rockershaft dowel kits not only stabilize the rockers by replacing the wimpy separator springs, but they also stiffen the shaft and don't cost all that much. Optionally, a stiffer shaft can be purchased after doing the prior two upgrades, but you certainly don't need to replace the shaft (unless it happens to be worn out, not likely) in your application.

I will advise that desktop dyno numbers can mask some parts-ordering mistakes. For example, the software doesn't differentiate when installing the wrong-style header flange. Be careful when ordering parts that you look past the computer and make sure you get the right parts for your application.

All JMO,
Shoe.

I've read that the 390 GT heads are a popular swap because of increased breathing. Also, you can drop in a 390 crank/rods/pistons, or even a 428crank/rods with 410 pistons to get 410. As to intakes, if you stick with your 360 cubes and mild cam, the RPM intake might be weaker in lower rpm torque than the Performer - it's made for higher rpm range on bigger motors. Larger ports kill velocity which kills torque.

Thanks guys! This is the first vehicle I've ever had with an FE and I was curious about its potential( even thought its POWERFUL now all stock with a 2bbrl ,except for a Peritronix ignition and their Flame Thrower coil) I'll take all your advice into concideration And Thanks Again!

The casting date is viewed from the bottom on the drivers' side front of the block below about where the oil filter housing is mounted.
No matter what the vintage, you should have the block sonic tested, as even the "105" truck blocks are subject to core shift.
I have had a HD 391 truck block checked to find only a .095 wall thickness in spots.

Ed

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you should be glad to have one of these, cause you can drill it out to a side oiler and use hard block. I was reading your dogfight w/JC and was chuckling. there is a reason ford made the oil holes the way they are. it was to assure that the hydraulic tappets would stay "quiet" cause the public at the time complained about hydraulic lifters clattering dirt etc. was more common in engines and air bubbles???

without numbers, don't know. BUT - interesting site with lots of good info on major FE componenets - numbers, year, app - is
//pliverman.home.mindspring.com/index2.htm

You should be able to find a set of rods and a crank easily and inexpensively. Then when you build it, you use 390 pistons.
That is about it for the differences.

Ed

The difference is the stroke, to put it simply. The 360 uses the same stroke as the 352 (3.50"). While it has the bore of a 390 (4.05"). Find a good 3.78" stroke crank or better yet, in my opinion, try to find a 3.98" crank from a 428 and make sure, as Ed pointed out, to match the rods to the length of the stroke so as not to adversely affect the compression ratio. Then just have fun with it.

I was there, raced my 66GTA, had a good time with racers of ALL makes of cars, bettered my time from last year and beat my opponent (Cuda 340) easily. I realize that low 15's are no big deal on this forum, so save the comments. I am just enjoying my stock 390 the way it was intended, for enjoyable cruising, and the occasinal run down the strip for laughs, if I improve the performace every year with no sacrifice in drivability - so much the better.

Most of us don't post e-mail addresses because of the Spambots crawling around gathering e-mail addys. Before I changed ISPs, I was getting an average of 100 junk mails per day. That was when I was a newbie. The only time I post an e-mail is if someone asks for it. It is not to hide behind a veil of anonymity. I just hate weeding out 98 pieces of spam for one or two valid messages.

Ed. 11-2000 M C Review. page 64. Jerry Dick's 68 1/2 cobra jet
mustang GT fastback 4 speed, 3.70 gears, polyglass gt,s
Round 1, 13.38 @ 103.69
Round 2, 13.25 @ 106.64
Round 3, 13.39 @ 106.39
Look at that MPH! That car will go 12s on slicks.
I must admit my opinion is biased because I own one, a fastback, auto, 3.91s, & my brother owns a hardtop, 4 speed, 4.30s. My brother would like to run his at the shootout when its done because it will be all stock.

I'd love to participate, but my car's not stock. It's a hassle to change it just to prove a point. I've got a few more things to change before I can race it anyway. I've still got 2.80 gears in the rear. (maybe 3.00 but steep nonetheless)

Well Ed, It looks like it's just me and maybe you. Surprising isn't it? I mean with all the performance being written about on this forum you would think more people would participate. I guess until this changes Ford will be under represented ( I hope people are referring to the number of Fords!) If you need some info on what is acceptable at these shootouts in the way of "stockness" let me know I can help.

Hi Ed,

I own two 427's and I'm not willing to prove a point that has already been well proven in history by Henry Ford II, especially running against some guy in a 5.0 Mustang, even though I'd like to see any Ford do well, just like you.

I own two vintage Porsches too, and I'm not willing to go out and prove Porsche won LeMans 17 times by a public thrashing of perfectly good machinery. That's an expensive way to provide the evening's entertainment for others, at my expense.

I'm not going to try to relive and re-prove the past with my Ford engines, however, if I had a race 427 (or a hi-po 390 or 428) I might have a different opinion. I might have a different opinion if my engines were in a muscle car, but they're not. I think the majority of 427 ownership (and big block FE ownership) out there is NOT represented in the drag racing set. In other words, the drag racing set is not the (only) measure of the worth of the Ford FE. Many of these engines are owned by appreciative collectors, who are not into racing.

The problem with the FE is, they never really captured the "performance image market" quite like the GM brands did, such as the GTO, and even the Chevrolet brands did. Yes, Ford won on the BIG tracks, but they didn't win on the little tracks where the common man could race. Fords were always heavy with big motors. The GTO had a big motor but weighed a lot less than a Galaxie, and therefore could beat one down the quarter mile in front of a lot of common folks (like me).

So if you have one of those big Fords with the big motor, yes they are great and powerful cars, but why go to the track and have someone with a newer cheaper car with better power to weight ratio blast you into the weeds? If you have the bucks and need to prove the point, I think you probably could do well with a 427, but you won't have a lot of company out there with you due to the value of those old engines, and the cost of repair, etc.

I'm going to build a performance FE some day before I die, and I'll head for the track, or anywhere else, and I'll prove something to myself. Don't hold your breath though! When I do this, I hope you're at the track so you can at least see how well, or poorly, I do at the time. I'm sure any loss will be attributed to "operator error" and not the fine motor.

Regards, P

All I know for sure is when I start my 390 Fairlane, that when the red light goes out I'm good to go. Now about that pesky blue light ,it seems to stay on for at least 3 or 4 minutes though.

Check your VIN again. It would be a single letter, like X or Y or Z.
Is there a tag on your carb?

Ed

Information on my galaxie 64
The tag on my carb is C4AF DJ.
The VIN on my door is 463C 64L 920007
TRIM : 64I Engine : JC
390 or other

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