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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25115&Reply=25115><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>wheel bearing packing</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>loco100, <i>06/11/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>have 67 gal. w/drum manual brakes. question ,when you use a bearing packer to put grease in bearings, do you still need to fill the cavity between the inner and outer bearings w/ grease? i have been doing this, but getting grease on shoes after several hunded miles, what am i doing wrong?? </blockquote> wheel bearing packing -- loco100, 06/11/2005
have 67 gal. w/drum manual brakes. question ,when you use a bearing packer to put grease in bearings, do you still need to fill the cavity between the inner and outer bearings w/ grease? i have been doing this, but getting grease on shoes after several hunded miles, what am i doing wrong??
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25116&Reply=25115><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: wheel bearing packing</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>06/11/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>do you over pack the void between the bearings?a littel dab will do. </blockquote> RE: wheel bearing packing -- giacamo, 06/11/2005
do you over pack the void between the bearings?a littel dab will do.
 RE: wheel bearing packing -- Lou, 06/11/2005
Replace the seals when you pack the bearing. I really don't like wheel bearing packers, I pack them by hand, messy but it was the way I was taught 45 years ago.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25109&Reply=25109><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>carburation</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gene simmons, <i>06/10/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>wondering what people are using for carbs nowadays, what you had best luck with; holley, demons, edelbrocks, etc., 600cfm, 700, 800, so on. look forward to your replys. </blockquote> carburation -- gene simmons, 06/10/2005
wondering what people are using for carbs nowadays, what you had best luck with; holley, demons, edelbrocks, etc., 600cfm, 700, 800, so on. look forward to your replys.
 RE: carburation -- giacamo, 06/11/2005
i,v had good luck with the 600 650 hollys on most 335 to 375 hp 390.si, i,m thinking of trying the thunder searies elderbrock carter afb tipe carb the 650 cfm one....
 RE: carburation -- dennie, 06/12/2005
3 rochester 3g's on mine...
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25108&Reply=25108><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>1969 overheating</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Art, <i>06/10/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have just replaced the water pump, radiator, thermostat and hoses and it heats up very quickly even when idle.  It seems that the water is not circulating.  What can I do to test this?  Any suggestions?<br> </blockquote> 1969 overheating -- Art, 06/10/2005
I have just replaced the water pump, radiator, thermostat and hoses and it heats up very quickly even when idle. It seems that the water is not circulating. What can I do to test this? Any suggestions?
 RE: 1969 overheating -- Barry B, 06/10/2005
Remove the thermostat and test it in a pan of water on the stove with a candy thermometer. Bring the temperature up slowly, stirring occasionally. If it's a 180* thermostat, it should just start to crack open at 180* and won't be fully open until around 195*.

If it checks out ok, reinstall it making sure the 'guts' side is sticking inside the manifold.

But before reinstalling it, do a sanity check and bolt everything up without the thermostat. Run the engine and see if you've got good flow thru the system. If you do, then proceed with reinstalling the thermostat.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25118&Reply=25108><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 1969 overheating</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>06/11/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>are the head gaskets on right?or are the head gaskets leaking by and letting coolent flow in the frount insted of making the colent flow to the back of the block up through the head back to the intake. some times the gasket rots away and coolent flowes in frount of the block to the head and the block suffers from the flow being bleaded off in frount and couses overheating problems.? how old is your moter.? </blockquote> RE: 1969 overheating -- giacamo, 06/11/2005
are the head gaskets on right?or are the head gaskets leaking by and letting coolent flow in the frount insted of making the colent flow to the back of the block up through the head back to the intake. some times the gasket rots away and coolent flowes in frount of the block to the head and the block suffers from the flow being bleaded off in frount and couses overheating problems.? how old is your moter.?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25125&Reply=25108><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 1969 overheating</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Art, <i>06/13/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I bought the vehicle last week and while the outside of the radiator was newly painted after furhter inspecting it on the inside it looked like the cells were clogged.  I'm hoping that was the cause and I can just replace it.  Thanks for your tips.<br> </blockquote> RE: 1969 overheating -- Art, 06/13/2005
I bought the vehicle last week and while the outside of the radiator was newly painted after furhter inspecting it on the inside it looked like the cells were clogged. I'm hoping that was the cause and I can just replace it. Thanks for your tips.
 RE: 1969 overheating -- walt, 06/13/2005
if the core is ok,no repairs,we used to pull the radiator,put it face down,get some tiolet bowl cleaner,dump some in,follow it with water,let it set for a few mins,rinse,do again if neccessary,stuff is designed not to damage copper ,brass plumbing,i don't care for the cooling system flush,to many water pumps,heater cores started leaking soon afterwards,may be coincidence?,and what also works great is antirust/water pump lube,i hardley change a water pump in years
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25101&Reply=25101><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Intake</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>justford, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>What is the easiest way to tell a 351 W intake from a 351 C intake? The part #  is<br>D3ZE 9425 -AA. There is alos a large 4 on the intake and it seems that I remember clecelands have this.<br>Thanks </blockquote> Intake -- justford, 06/09/2005
What is the easiest way to tell a 351 W intake from a 351 C intake? The part # is
D3ZE 9425 -AA. There is alos a large 4 on the intake and it seems that I remember clecelands have this.
Thanks
 RE: Intake -- Steve M, 06/10/2005
The 351 Cleveland intakes have the upper radiator hose going into the top of the motor and facing down. The 351 windsor upper radiator hose plugs into the front of the intake facing toward the back of the car.
 it's for a Cleveland n/m -- Barry B, 06/10/2005
n/m
 RE: Intake -- giacamo, 06/11/2005
the cleavland has no water in it and the 4v has lager portes then the 2v tipe thay do not interchange....
 Transmission speedometer gear -- MIKE, 06/09/2005
Does any one know what speedometer cable gear i need on my tko600 for my 67 fastback my tires are 275/40/17.
do i have to replace the speedometer gear ring on the output shaft for this correction?.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25091&Reply=25091><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a stock 390 4v with headers and edelbrock carb and intake. When I let off the gas after running it hard it pops through the exhaust. At first I thought it might be the mufflers, but I ran it uncapped headers at the track and the same thing happened. Any ideas what it could be? The timing is set at 10 degrees and the carb and intake are only 1 year old. I have the pertronix point replacements in the distributor. The motor is from 1970.  </blockquote> 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration -- Steve M, 06/09/2005
I have a stock 390 4v with headers and edelbrock carb and intake. When I let off the gas after running it hard it pops through the exhaust. At first I thought it might be the mufflers, but I ran it uncapped headers at the track and the same thing happened. Any ideas what it could be? The timing is set at 10 degrees and the carb and intake are only 1 year old. I have the pertronix point replacements in the distributor. The motor is from 1970.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25093&Reply=25091><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Lou, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Sound like the carb is too big for the engine and dumping raw gas into the exhaust. Also recheck your timming. </blockquote> RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration -- Lou, 06/09/2005
Sound like the carb is too big for the engine and dumping raw gas into the exhaust. Also recheck your timming.
 RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration -- John, 06/09/2005
I used to have the same problem.....would clean the points and it would go away for a while. Changed to Pertronix and no more trouble. Since you already did this, I wouild check your plugs and wires. Wires dont' last that long (2 years max unless you get high quality ones). Go for 8 mm ones. How's the dist cap and rotor?
 Carb is an edelbrock 600 cfm -- Steve M, 06/10/2005
The carb is a 600 cfm edelbrock. I was thinking it may be running rich or something like that but the plugs dont look like they are running rich. The plugs,wires and cap were just replaced less than 200 miles ago.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25098&Reply=25091><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>first of all what kind of a distribitor do you have?and id it the daul diagfram or single,dual point or single before modifcations?and do you still have the smog stuff on the motor? </blockquote> RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration -- walt, 06/09/2005
first of all what kind of a distribitor do you have?and id it the daul diagfram or single,dual point or single before modifcations?and do you still have the smog stuff on the motor?
 Walt it is a stock ford dist from 1970 -- Steve M, 06/10/2005
Walt it is the original distributor from ford in 1970. It is a single point distributor. As far as I know I dont see any smog products on the motor.
 RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration -- walt, 06/10/2005
ok,then you have a leak some where,i was thinking that the anti back fire valve,wich is prone to fail on the smog system,and the dual diafram distribitor,would some times retard too much,if the vacuum supply was on the wrong port,activate at the wrong timeflood the exhaust with unburned fuel
 RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration -- R. Hunt, 06/10/2005
Here are two other things that either causes or amplifies this problem:

An exhaust system that has a leak.

A vacuum leak.

Basically anytime unregulated air gets into an engine or the exhaust system it causes or amplifies the exhaust popping problem.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25544&Reply=25091><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Cobradude, <i>08/12/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I had a similar problem on my 428. My exhaust headers were leaking to such an extent that I was getting blow-back. They were leaking at the head mating surface and around the down-pipes! </blockquote> RE: 390 Backfires through exhaust on deceleration -- Cobradude, 08/12/2005
I had a similar problem on my 428. My exhaust headers were leaking to such an extent that I was getting blow-back. They were leaking at the head mating surface and around the down-pipes!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25545&Reply=25091><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Header gasket?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve M, <i>08/13/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Do you think a header gasket could be the culprit? They are only 2 years old though. Any way to test it other than by replacing them? </blockquote> Header gasket? -- Steve M, 08/13/2005
Do you think a header gasket could be the culprit? They are only 2 years old though. Any way to test it other than by replacing them?
 RE: Header gasket? -- Cobradude, 08/13/2005
You can usually hear if the headers are leaking, also you tend to get sooty deposits around the gaskets. Place your hand near the headers and see if you can feel the leaking air pulse while engine is running.

I had my headers patched up which stopped the popping........However the damn things still leak a bit!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25090&Reply=25090><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 upgrade or "not"</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>kenny massengale, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a '69 Mach 1 scj, I know that the original engine is not in the car, but that's beside the point. This car was built 12-05-68 w/the drag pack opt. w/4:30's and a 4-sp. According to Muscle car (winter issue) of 04 these cars didn't recieve the bottom end upgrades until 12-26-68. The car came w/the oil cooler but what i don't know is, why would it have come w/the oil cooler if it came w/only a std. 428cj, or did it come with the upgrade and how can i find out or do any of you guys know? </blockquote> 428 upgrade or "not" -- kenny massengale, 06/09/2005
I have a '69 Mach 1 scj, I know that the original engine is not in the car, but that's beside the point. This car was built 12-05-68 w/the drag pack opt. w/4:30's and a 4-sp. According to Muscle car (winter issue) of 04 these cars didn't recieve the bottom end upgrades until 12-26-68. The car came w/the oil cooler but what i don't know is, why would it have come w/the oil cooler if it came w/only a std. 428cj, or did it come with the upgrade and how can i find out or do any of you guys know?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25099&Reply=25090><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 428 upgrade or "not"</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>after 68 1/2 all 428 mustangs had the cj engine,i think that mr F or hawkrod can steer you  in the right direction,they can get the dates for production for you </blockquote> RE: 428 upgrade or "not" -- walt, 06/09/2005
after 68 1/2 all 428 mustangs had the cj engine,i think that mr F or hawkrod can steer you in the right direction,they can get the dates for production for you
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25105&Reply=25090><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 428 upgrade or "not"</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>kenny massengale, <i>06/10/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>i guess what i was wondering is, this engine may not have come w/the beefier bottom end that had the 427 lemans rods and had the external counterweight, therefore finding one of these engines would not be "as difficult" to find. </blockquote> RE: 428 upgrade or "not" -- kenny massengale, 06/10/2005
i guess what i was wondering is, this engine may not have come w/the beefier bottom end that had the 427 lemans rods and had the external counterweight, therefore finding one of these engines would not be "as difficult" to find.
 RE: 428 upgrade or "not" -- walt, 06/11/2005
simple test,look behind the damper,see if you have the counter wieght,or pull the pan and se what rods you have
 RE: 428 upgrade or "not" -- walt, 06/11/2005
also check the casting number on the heads ,that will tell you if its a cj,if some one didn,t do a swap
 RE: 428 upgrade or "not" -- Jeff H., 06/16/2005
"According to Muscle car (winter issue) of 04 these cars didn't recieve the bottom end upgrades until 12-26-68"

This is not true. Any time during the '69 model year if you ordered the optional axle ratio (3.91 or 4.30) you automatically got the cooler and SCJ internals. Ford did not start officially calling this option "drag pack" until just after the first of the year.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25087&Reply=25087><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>c6ae-R w/cj valves?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>roger, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>will it fit a stock 352 with flat top pistons?<br>I was told it was OK, but would like to hear your comments.... thanks roger </blockquote> c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- roger, 06/09/2005
will it fit a stock 352 with flat top pistons?
I was told it was OK, but would like to hear your comments.... thanks roger
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25088&Reply=25087><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>you have to make sure that the valve is unshrouded,have cut a very little in the chamber near the valve to optimize flow,i seen them work,with and without cutting,cut the seats to fit,and some peopledcleaned up to port area near the valves,and removed the lump in the exhaust port,becareful,it gets thin in some spots </blockquote> RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- walt, 06/09/2005
you have to make sure that the valve is unshrouded,have cut a very little in the chamber near the valve to optimize flow,i seen them work,with and without cutting,cut the seats to fit,and some peopledcleaned up to port area near the valves,and removed the lump in the exhaust port,becareful,it gets thin in some spots
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25089&Reply=25087><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>roger, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I bought the heads with the CJ valves, they (didn't come on the 352) I torn down a 67' 390 and the pistons had " eyebrows"<br>I would love to have a 390 in my merc someday... Its gotta move... or else,   <br>ex...GRIN<br>the c1me heads were destroyed by a crazyman w/grinder  (ME)<br>welding is brittle and can't be kept hot enough<br>not to crack,  good heads....."^"<br>steve christ in " big-block ford engines"<br>I'll need to 'trim" the cylinder wall 1/8 "<br><br>is it worth the trouble or just go for different heads?<br>thanks alot for your Input,<br>after the porting and welding nitemare,<br>I'd rather go the safe way.....GRIN<br><br>thanks roger<br> </blockquote> RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- roger, 06/09/2005
I bought the heads with the CJ valves, they (didn't come on the 352) I torn down a 67' 390 and the pistons had " eyebrows"
I would love to have a 390 in my merc someday... Its gotta move... or else,
ex...GRIN
the c1me heads were destroyed by a crazyman w/grinder (ME)
welding is brittle and can't be kept hot enough
not to crack, good heads....."^"
steve christ in " big-block ford engines"
I'll need to 'trim" the cylinder wall 1/8 "

is it worth the trouble or just go for different heads?
thanks alot for your Input,
after the porting and welding nitemare,
I'd rather go the safe way.....GRIN

thanks roger
 RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- walt, 06/09/2005
the 352 can be taken out to 4.05 390 bore,i seen a many do it,had no probs
 RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- walt, 06/09/2005
i missed the nocthing of the cylinder,bolt them on an empty block and take a look thru the bottom of the cylinder,the cj valve might need notching,but if you only do the exhaust you prob won't have to,then you have the cheater 406 head,wich still works pretty good
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25095&Reply=25087><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>they will work,the c 6ae r head is original to the 352i put a set on a 428 pi,worked great,still not as good as a cj head.the exhaust port floor is lowermake sure that you match your headers to the head,not the engine size,there can be a port interference and i did put the stainless cj valves in them,i call them 428 cj cheater headslow 11,s high twelves,running ford  hydra cams in a 67 gt mustang 4 speed top loader,everyday driver </blockquote> RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- walt, 06/09/2005
they will work,the c 6ae r head is original to the 352i put a set on a 428 pi,worked great,still not as good as a cj head.the exhaust port floor is lowermake sure that you match your headers to the head,not the engine size,there can be a port interference and i did put the stainless cj valves in them,i call them 428 cj cheater headslow 11,s high twelves,running ford hydra cams in a 67 gt mustang 4 speed top loader,everyday driver
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25096&Reply=25087><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>06/09/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>ps the slightly lager valve size will not need any extra fly cutting,unless yuo go wild with a cam </blockquote> RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- walt, 06/09/2005
ps the slightly lager valve size will not need any extra fly cutting,unless yuo go wild with a cam
 RE: c6ae-R w/cj valves? -- roger, 06/10/2005
I was looking thru "theBook" flat top pistons
have .05 clearence from the deck,
the " eyebrows" have .01 some times less,
with that thinking, the eyebrows make higher compression....
the early 427 406 had flat tops
the 66 352 has eyebrows, the 61 has flat tops

walt thanks alot for the info....
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25064&Reply=25064><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>mustang watch</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>cameron, <i>06/07/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Yeah, this is sad, it has nothing to do with cars, but I'm just asking about a mustang watch I have. I'm a mustang enthusiast, and I assume you guys are too. Does anyone know how to mess with the hour and day dials? I lost my instructions, I can't find any on the internet, and the only thing it does right is tell time now. By the way, I have a 1967 Mustang coupe with a straight-6 200ci and 3 speed cruise-o-matic (I'm 16, it's all I could afford that still ran) and everything else is stock other than the gas cap, suspension, full ignition system, and tires. I'm sayin this so you don't think I'm a rich, ignorant, got this watch and car for my birthday kid. Thanks </blockquote> mustang watch -- cameron, 06/07/2005
Yeah, this is sad, it has nothing to do with cars, but I'm just asking about a mustang watch I have. I'm a mustang enthusiast, and I assume you guys are too. Does anyone know how to mess with the hour and day dials? I lost my instructions, I can't find any on the internet, and the only thing it does right is tell time now. By the way, I have a 1967 Mustang coupe with a straight-6 200ci and 3 speed cruise-o-matic (I'm 16, it's all I could afford that still ran) and everything else is stock other than the gas cap, suspension, full ignition system, and tires. I'm sayin this so you don't think I'm a rich, ignorant, got this watch and car for my birthday kid. Thanks
 RE: mustang watch -- Patrick, 06/07/2005
most watches work the same - pull the crown (the knob near the "3" on the outside of the watch) one click and turn. see what happens. my watch comes out two clicks, and when I turn it on the second click, the date changes. if not, you will have to keep turning the dial until the date changes to the correct date.
Patrick
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25063&Reply=25063><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>351W Radiator</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Patrick, <i>06/07/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 66 mustang with a 351W.  I purchased it with an "original style" radiator (upper and lower outlets on passenger side), but was clogged with bits of silicone.  Needless to say, overheating was a problem.  I purchased a high-cooling alluminum Griffin "Ford style" radiator and installed it.  The lower outlet was on the drivers side, so I had to buy a longer lower hose.  My car still overheats when it idles.  Does it matter which sides the outlets are on for the radiator, or should I look for a new answer.  The timing has been re-checked numerous times, so that is not the problem.  I figured that by converting from a 2-row copper to a 4-row aluminum would solve my cooling problems.  I need help, summer is coming... </blockquote> 351W Radiator -- Patrick, 06/07/2005
I have a 66 mustang with a 351W. I purchased it with an "original style" radiator (upper and lower outlets on passenger side), but was clogged with bits of silicone. Needless to say, overheating was a problem. I purchased a high-cooling alluminum Griffin "Ford style" radiator and installed it. The lower outlet was on the drivers side, so I had to buy a longer lower hose. My car still overheats when it idles. Does it matter which sides the outlets are on for the radiator, or should I look for a new answer. The timing has been re-checked numerous times, so that is not the problem. I figured that by converting from a 2-row copper to a 4-row aluminum would solve my cooling problems. I need help, summer is coming...
 RE: 351W Radiator -- walt, 06/07/2005
i had to change the water pump,there is a right or left water pump lower hose intake,i believe i used a 69 pump,but that was back in 70,when i replaced a 302 with a 351 in a 68 cougar,with the larger radiator and,and used the big block rad core support
 RE: 351W Radiator -- walt, 06/07/2005
the other options are maybe your water pump is shot,you have a 4 blade fan,or bad head gaskets
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25070&Reply=25063><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351W Radiator</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>06/07/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>ps ,i forgot fan shroud missing </blockquote> RE: 351W Radiator -- walt, 06/07/2005
ps ,i forgot fan shroud missing
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25071&Reply=25063><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351W Radiator</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Patrick, <i>06/07/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>thanks walt<br>head gasket is good, and it has a big 5 blade.  I'm not sure about the water pump (the coolant doesn't really flow that fast when I look into the radiator - could this be due to the extra long lower radiator hose, or just the water pump?) and no shroud.  Would a shroud make that much difference?<br>thanks<br>Patrick </blockquote> RE: 351W Radiator -- Patrick, 06/07/2005
thanks walt
head gasket is good, and it has a big 5 blade. I'm not sure about the water pump (the coolant doesn't really flow that fast when I look into the radiator - could this be due to the extra long lower radiator hose, or just the water pump?) and no shroud. Would a shroud make that much difference?
thanks
Patrick
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25072&Reply=25063><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351W Radiator</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>walt, <i>06/07/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>yes it does,i couldn't believe how much a diff it made,i had to plant my foot in the carb to cool the motor off at low ispeed or idle </blockquote> RE: 351W Radiator -- walt, 06/07/2005
yes it does,i couldn't believe how much a diff it made,i had to plant my foot in the carb to cool the motor off at low ispeed or idle
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25073&Reply=25063><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351W Radiator</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Patrick, <i>06/07/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Which would you reccommend I buy?  I have a 66 coupe with a 69 351W.  I'm guessing that I buy one that would fit the 289 in the 66 body, because if I bought one that was made for the 351, it might not attach correctly.  What do you think?<br>thanks for all your help<br>Patrick </blockquote> RE: 351W Radiator -- Patrick, 06/07/2005
Which would you reccommend I buy? I have a 66 coupe with a 69 351W. I'm guessing that I buy one that would fit the 289 in the 66 body, because if I bought one that was made for the 351, it might not attach correctly. What do you think?
thanks for all your help
Patrick
 RE: 351W Radiator -- walt, 06/08/2005
two options,buy the one that fits the radiator,save the original,or my next option.run electric fans,with the temp sensor/switch in the cooling water system,not in the radiator fins as with some of the i call not that good of a system
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25084&Reply=25063><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351W Radiator</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Matt, <i>06/08/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>Another option is to go witht he 70' water pump. i believe that in 70 the rad had offset inlet/outlets. May have to change power steering bracket though. </blockquote> RE: 351W Radiator -- Matt, 06/08/2005
Another option is to go witht he 70' water pump. i believe that in 70 the rad had offset inlet/outlets. May have to change power steering bracket though.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=25085&Reply=25063><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 351W Radiator</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Patrick, <i>06/08/2005</i></font><br /><blockquote>would the 70 water pump fit correctly on a 69 block? </blockquote> RE: 351W Radiator -- Patrick, 06/08/2005
would the 70 water pump fit correctly on a 69 block?
 RE: 351W Radiator -- Matt, 06/08/2005
yep, but the power steering bracket will be slightly different.
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