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 |  Dual intake air cleaner 390 GT -- Douglas Grant, 04/29/2005
I need a dual intake air cleaner with PCV inlet in front center with good mesh over intakes. Prefer restored mint, but will entertain all items available. This is for a 390 GT cougar. Please contact me via email, dazed@dellmail.com thanks. Doug Grant |
 | What is a good total timing for a 390? -- Steve M, 04/28/2005
Anybody have a good suggestion on total timing on a 390? This thing is making me mad. I have it at 10 degrees and it is still surging at a constant speed. |
| Need to locate a part -- Bob S., 04/27/2005
Anyone know where I can find a coolant overflow resevoir for a 67 Galaxie 500? |
| | RE: Need to locate a part -- raycfe, 04/27/2005
I didn't think coolant overflow reservoirs were used until the 70's. Are you talking about the plastic tanks? or something else. |
| |  | RE: Need to locate a part -- Bob S., 04/27/2005
Well, you could be correct, I have not looked for a part # yet, but there is a tank from the car, and it is the plastic bottle. It is in pretty rough shape and I just replaced the old windshield wash bottle with an NOS part and to put them side by side is not really an option if you know what I mean. If 67 did not have the overflow container, I'll deal with it that way.... |
|  | Off-hand, I'd agree with Ray...they appeared @ 1970. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/29/2005
n/m |
|  | RE: Need to locate a part -- giacamo, 04/29/2005
do you nead one for the strip? most tracks mandate a over flow tank.i,d steal one off of a lincon or a newer model car that looks factury? |
| | | RE: Need to locate a part -- Bob S., 04/30/2005
No, I pulled the motor over the winter and cleaned up the engine and compartment. When I pulled the motor, there was an overflow bottle. No telling if it is original or not because the motor is a 73 351w in a 67 Galaxie. So, to your question about the track, my 73 windsor is a smog motor with about 150 hp, so it will be hiding from the track, not searching it out!! Thanks for the info.
Bob |
| | RE: FPTA Can kiss my ASS! -- Roger, 04/26/2005
Fpa* |
| Timing Question -- Fatblockford, 04/26/2005
67 mustang, 390 / C6 auto / 4:11 gears. 780 Holley. Streetmaster Intake. Solid Lifter Cam w/ 524 lift & 310 duration.
On modified motors, how do I know what initial timing to start with? Then, to adjust the timing to best suite the engine, what do I look for?...what's the best method for adjusting it for best performance?
Sorry if these are dumb questions...still learning here!
Thanks. |
| A/C Questions -- Trevor Korsrud, 04/26/2005
I'm trying to piece back the A/C on my 67 390 mustang. It was one of those 10,000 easy pieces projects that came in boxes and coffee cans. I think I am missing parts of the A/C components. Should there be two idler pulleys. Are they unique to the big-block cars or will any idler from a V-8 work? I think there is also a "stablizer bar" that supports the compresser. Is this unique to the 390 as well? Thanks to anyone who can help.
Trevor |
| Dual quad BJ/BK's vs 465's -- Greg Westphall, 04/26/2005
My dad is looking at the dual quad set up from Carl's Ford Parts. Carl recommended the 465's over the BJ/BK (600). He will be initially running them on his 410 while he builds up a 447 short block. The 410 will have the Edelbrock heads and either the 6250-C camshaft or something similar but with with tighter lobe centers from Comp cams, factory 427 cast iron headers, electronic ignition, and erson roller rocker assys. All of these parts will be switched over to the 447 short block. The vehicle is a 1967 Mercury 2 Dr a/t 3.0:1 rear axle.
The question is knowling his final application will be a 447 which Holleys should he go with? Does anyone have any experience with the 465's?
Greg Westphall |
| | RE: Dual quad BJ/BK's vs 465's -- walt, 04/26/2005
those are race carbs only,no power valve center squirts,mechanicals,milage sucks |
| | RE: Dual quad BJ/BK's vs 465's -- walt, 04/26/2005
check the number to seeif they are 4224's,652 center squirts |
| | | RE: Dual quad BJ/BK's vs 465's -- Greg Westphall, 04/27/2005
Carl says these are vacuum secondary carbs, same as BJ/BK only smaller. I think you may be thinking of the 450's |
| | I sure like my BJ - BK's -- Royce P, 04/27/2005
I have 448 CI and the BJ - BK's are awesome. Mine are originals on a MR manifold.
Royce |
| | | RE: I sure like my BJ - BK's -- Travis Miller, 04/27/2005
"6250-C camshaft or something similar but with with tighter lobe centers from Comp cams, factory 427 cast iron headers, electronic ignition, and erson roller rocker assys"
It is a shame that all those great parts will be going to waste on the 447 engine as long as it is backed up with a 3.00 rear gear. With a gear like that the owner is headed for serious disappointment the whenever he pulls up at a stoplight next to anything that even resembles a musclecar. |
| Please help me start my 390! -- Scott Gunter, 04/26/2005
Hey everyone,
I am trying to start my 390 mustang resto project, which has been sitting well over a year since running last. And it has only ran sporadically over the last 10 years. I will give you the signs and symptoms of what I am seeing, and hopefully greater minds can give a beginner some good advice.
I made sure to turn the engine over a while to help oil be somewhat circulated before it fired off. I then added gas to a very low fuel tank. As I started turning the engine over when I was ready to fire, I noticed no fuel was getting to carburetor, since there is a clear plastic fuel filter in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb. By pouring a small shot of fuel(w/ fire extinguisher nearby) directly into the carb, the engine fires momentarily and shuts off. So I know there is spark. It is also getting air. However, the fuel issue seems to be the principal problem. It takes A LOT of starter spinning to get the fuel to come up into the plastic filter element, and immediately after the engine stops spinning, the fuel drains down out of the element back towards the tank. Here are some knowns:
1. There is at least three to four gallons of fuel in the tank.
2. The fuel pump does move the fuel toward the carburetor.
3. The engine starts to fire, but immediately dies.
4. After much turning over, the fuel finally(slowly) makes its way towards the carb.
5. Immediately after cranking stops, the fuel in the line drains(sucks?) back to the fuel tank.
My current hypothesis is that the fuel filter on the sending unit in the tank is clogged(due to car/fuel sitting so long) and is not allowing the fuel to pump into the carburetor. As I am turning the engine over, the pump creates a suction and pulls fuel in the lines toward the carb, but at too slow a rate(and also never getting it to the carb) to get engine to fire. When the cranking stops, the vacuum in the system causes the fuel to suck back. Does this sound valid? Any more suggestions? APPRECIATE any help you guys can offer, and I thank you for it.
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| | RE: Please help me start my 390! -- Trevor Korsrud, 04/26/2005
I would start by replacing the fuel filter, draining the old gas out of the tank and lines, and checking to see that I don't have a lot of corrosion in the tank that is clogging up the fuel filter and preventing fuel from getting to the carburator.
Trevor
P.S. Have you registered your car in the new Mustang S-Code registry? I'm also restoring an s-code mustang right now.
http://www.scodemustang.com/ |
| | RE: Please help me start my 390! -- John, 04/26/2005
Look for an in-line fuel filter in the fuel line.....tank ones are usually a coarse mesh, if there at all. Next, if the float is stuck in the carb, fuel will compress the air to the carb inside the fuel line. Once you stop cranking, the pressure pushes the gas back down the line. A bad fuel pump can do the same thing. I'd connect a temporary fuel line from a fresh jug of gas to the fuel pump, or directly to the carb (jug up high so gravity feeds it), and try that. When trying it, tap the carb float bowl area with a small hammer to free the float. If this works, clean the carb. With your car sitting so long, install a new in-line fuel filter anyway. If the tank has a drain-plug, drain the tank. If rusty gas comes out, take out the tank and either clean it well, or replace it. My best guess is the carb float needle/seat is stuck or gummed up. |
| | | RE: Please help me start my 390! -- giacamo, 04/26/2005
I,d agree with John and I,d tak a close look at the carb a dried out carb can be a real hassel |
| | | | RE: Please help me start my 390! -- Scott Gunter, 04/26/2005
Wow! Great info, and what I needed. I definitely think the carburetor is suspect, and will troubleshoot it as well as run the fuel pump tests and tank filter checks. Good advice from all, and much appreciated! |
| 352 motor -- kenny, 04/25/2005
sorry its not a mustang question but my brother in law has a 66 ford pickup with a 352 motor and we are trying to put an AOD behind it. will we need an adapter or will it bolt up? Any advice will be helpful thanks. |
| Brake line prop. valve -- Bill, 04/25/2005
I installed 67 Galaxie 4 piston disc's on my 73 Mustang which had front drums. I have no Brake booster, just m/c, do I need a brake booster or a prop. vavle installed on rear brake lines? Car stops great, but most of braking from front discs, prob a 80 to 20 balance between both axles. |
| | RE: Brake line prop. valve -- Pete's Ponies, 04/25/2005
a prop valves takes away pressure from the rear. Drums require less pressure. If you didn't have one, your backs would be doing most of the work or lock up by the time the fronts were engaged. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm, you used the stock distribution block from your Mustang? |
| | | RE: Brake line prop. valve -- Bill, 04/25/2005
no, I dont have a prop valve, yes i did use the stock dist blk. but, front nose dives, so there engaging first. rears are adjusted and functional. are the factory dist of brake pressure different now that I have discs? |
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