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Original Message
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| The best thing to do is gap the cylinder jacket. |
| By Dave Shoe - 01/09/2002 12:49:24 AM; IP 216.243.158.186 |
If you wanna figure out a probable max bore without spending too much, do the drill bit check in all six core plug holes.
Using drill bits ranging from maybe 4/64" to 20/64", look for the biggest bit that will fit between each of the cylinders and write down all six numbers. The cylinders are tapered on the water jacket side, so you'll want to check in several positions to be sure you've found the loosest area for that pair of cylinders.
I believe when I'm reasy to get serious, I'm gonna add the six numbers together for each block (in 64ths) and then divide by 6. This will give an "average" number which may best portray the intent of the original sand core that was stuffed into the mold box. Presently, I'm only using the single biggest gap in the block, bit this is not as precise an indicator.
I'm working in 64ths to keep the math easy, and also to help make me believe I'm actually using pin gauges. Screw real "pin gauges", because they cost too much and you can't use them for anything else. Drill bits are cheaper, and good for something after I'm done using them as gap checkers.
Note that this method is still being developed (I haven't checked very many blocks, yet), but it's logically the best way to tell what cylinder jacket cores were installed in the mold. Any jacket cores would fit, but it's nice to know which ones actually got stuffed into your block, so you have a rough idea what kind of cubes you can RELIABLY expect.
If 8/64" bit fits snug in the loosest spot, you may have a 427.
If 12/64" fits snug at the loosest spot, then you may have a 361/391/428.
If 16/64" fits snug at the loosest spot, it's likely a regular 330/360/390/410.
I haven't yet ever checked a 332/352 block, and am only apporoximating, as I don't yet have any REAL knowledge of what these numbers should be.
Note that if you look into the core plug holes, you'll likely see steel wires cast into the blocks. These wires, known as chaplets, are placed between the cores and the mold to assure everything is accurately positioned in the mold box. The chaplets permanently fuse into the engine block and become part of the casting.
Also note that the person assembling the mold could stuff any core into the mold box that was specified. I'm also working on the theory that the "C", "X", "A", "H", "I", II", or whatever character was scratched into the back of "nonstandard" blocks were indovidually scratched in by a screwdriver by a foundry worker at the time the mold was packed. This would be done, because the "job sheet" which may have accompanied each block casting was already printed before the sand was removed from the storage area (at Ford in Dearborn in 1958, this was a room which held 54,000 tons of fine dry sand), and because the cope and drag which defined the external block shape was the same no matter which block was being cast, side oiler excepted.
The only reason you've never seen the famous "105" markng in a car is because it wasn't around until after FEs were no longer put into cars. Note that "105" blocks may have wimpy or tough cylinder jackets, depending on what the job called for and what cores were stuffed in for that particular job.
JMO,
Shoe.
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