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Original Message
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Tips on old style cruiseomatic |
By Travis Miller - 01/21/2002 12:13:24 PM; IP 64.12.102.156 |
I ran one of these trans in my '61 big body sedan behind a stock '63 390-300 with a 428CJ cam and a tri-power. The car had 4.11 gears with 31 spline traction-loc. With street tires the 4000 lb car ran 14.81 in the 1/4 and 9.01 in the 1/8. Never had any trouble with non-rebuilt cruiseomatic but I learned a few tips that I will pass along.
No one makes a high stall convertor for the cast iron cruiseomatic. However they are made for the FMX. You must use the small block style convertor with a spacer ring in the back of crankshart in order to allow the snout of the convertor to fit an FE. You also have to use the FMX front pump but it bolts right on the cast iron cruiseomatic with no problem.
While the cast iron cruiseomatic will take anything you can throw at it, there is one weak point. It will break in the center main web if pulled into gear at too high an idle speed. To get max performance out of the trans, a few tips are as follow. Start off in drive and as soon as car moves pull shifter in low gear. It will improve et by almost one tenth by doing this instead of starting off in low position on shifter. Hold shifter in low position til max RPMs and put shifter back up in Drive. This allows shift to second. Immediately pull shifter back in low position in order to hold trans in second gear. Again at max RPM put shifter back in drive for shift to high gear. This technique works good but in order to be sure of not overrevving the engine you must be quick when moving the shifter. I advise trying it at lower RPMs until you get the hang of it. For those without a tach, the speedometer will work as a guage to find the shift points. |
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