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Original Message
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Sounds like a 360/390 block. |
By Dave Shoe - 05/15/2002 12:52:48 AM; IP 63.233.200.126 |
It does sound sorta like a healthy 360/390 block that may be good for .060" overbore or slightly more, sonic permitting. If you plan to bore and build-up, a sonic map is worth it for peace of mind with regards to core shift.
I have a 428 "A" block which will accept a 14/64 in a spot or two, but will accept a 15/64" nowhere. The few 360/390s I've checked will typically accept a 16 or 17 in a location or two, block dependent.
My 428 "A" passenger block does not have reinforced mains, and neither does your block. This should not be a concern. There is a semi-substantiated rumor that Ford (and all other manufacturers) reduced the tensile strength of the cast iron used in their engine blocks by almost 10% as the muscle car era was replaced by the Arab oil embargo and resulting recession, so it's possible the D4 block was made of a slightly different iron. Again, this would not likely be cause for adjustment of your build-up plans, just rumor passing. I'll follow up as I learn more.
C6AE rods could very easily be factory-installed rods and should be considered street-race rods after installing ARP bolts and then giving them the requisite reconditioning for the new bolts. All 390 rods since mid-63 are great rods, don't sweat the forging numbers.
What kind of headers do you have. If they're Hookers they won't port match the heads and will leak along the bottom of the gasket. Most headers don't port match these heads, so beware. You'll need some "low-flange FPA" or equivalent "emissions era" type headers.
A 428 crank will buy you an extra 5-10 horsies and 15 foot pounds, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. The 390 crank is stronger (not that it matters), and you've already got it. The 390 crank will rev out farther and sound meaner doing it.
The "full emissions" heads are always worth an easy 400HP (not considering any specific engine), and are generally more efficient than the large runner heads at the lower RPMs. Your 390 should readily make this kind of power. I'd run an Ed Perf RPM intake with 'em. Alternatives include the 427MR/428PI intake.
Since .060" over tentatively looks more appropriate for the block than .080", I'd suggest 390+.060 Silvolites, or something equivalent. 428 factory pistons are reinforced slightly more than 390 factory pistons, so I'd opt for the aftermarket if revving beyond 6000 is in the cards. If you plan to play in the 5500 range and below, factory cast pistons will last forever, though a properly selected 5500 limit will likely have you cammed a bit too mildly to hit a solid 400 flywheel horsies. With the shorter 390 stroke crank you can reliably rev and extra 300-500RPM above the more flexible 410/428 crank, and this buys the missing horsepower and a frightening exhaust sound.
This is just preliminary BS. A sonic map will tell you more abbout the block. It sounds like you've got the basics for a good running FE. I don't recommend cams, as others are better at this than me. I will recommend that you MUST have rockershaft end support stands to run this motor. If you don't buy them, you'll soon learn why they were recommended. Rockershaft dowel kits are also a nice option with a build like yours.
JMO, Shoe. |
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