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Original Message
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| RE: Crankshaft and Valve Removal |
| By Gerry Proctor - 05/23/2003 7:12:15 AM; IP 207.133.188.254 |
Well, Scott, I'm trying to put myself in your shoes and the fit is a little akward.
I assume the heads are off the engine as you're using your valve spring compressor (is the compressor the C-clamp type where the pad rests on the valve and the prong goes over the valve tip?) and if that's the case you can easily free stubborn locks and retainers by putting a socket whose outside diameter is just a nick smaller than the spring retainer on the retainer (flute end on the retainer) and giving it a good whack with a hammer. You need to have a small block of wood under the valve (but not always) to ensure the valve itself moves very little. This will will unseat the retainer and the locks in almost all cases. I've used this method many times as a very fast way to remove the valves without ever having to break out a spring compressor (although you need one to put the valve back in).
As to the balancer issue...Once you have the pulleys and the hub bolt off, most of the time you don't even need a puller to get the balancer off the snout of an FE engine. But if you do, a balancer puller (the common three or four-pad puller with the accompanying bag-o-balancer bolts) will fit just about any engine ever made. The biggest issue you'll have to face is removing the hub bolt. If you have an air impact (which I'm thinking you don't) that is the easiest method since you don't need to do anything other than hit the trigger. Other methods of removing the hub bolt are to use a long breaker bar on the bolt and give it a fast whack. Many times the instantanious force (just like an air impact wrench) will free the bolt. If that doesn't work, you'll have to use a rod to hold the flywheel while you apply torque to the bolt. |
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