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Original Message
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| If it doesn't tap out, leave it. |
| By Dave Shoe - 05/24/2003 7:27:53 PM; IP 216.243.176.34 |
I'm not a machinist, and machinists may have better methods for removing stubborn keys, but I've found the crank gear key (the one that fits into the curved slot) should be left alone if it doesn't readily pop loose with light tapping.
I've had a few extra FE crankshafts to play with lately (extra 352 and 360s) and decided to try to remove some of the more stubborn keys. The stuck keys deformed but did not come loose when I tapped them down hoping they would rock out. I also tryed to punch-pry another crank, but no luck either.
Obviously, the square damper key is easily removed, and must be removed to access the curved crank gear key. It's the crank gear key that can be a pest.
From my recent experiments, I've learned to leave them alone if they don't slip out with light tapping. Also, if the key is actually loose (sloppy in the slot), then it could create a different problem, so pray for good fit.
If you are referring to the square key that holds the damper in place, you are in luck, because a snug damper key means your damper will likely not be shaking loose during operation - a situation which can damage the crank snout. To remove a snug damper key, tighten a muffler clamp onto the crank spacer and use a hook-type puller on the muffler clamp to slide the sleeve and key off all at once. It works slick.
Note also that I used to curse the dampers that require a puller to slide off the crank snout, and I used to praise the dampers that slide off without a tool, until I learned that a loose fitting damper can cause the damper bolt to loosen over time, and this can cause problems when you least expect them.
Good luck.
Shoe. |
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