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Original Message
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| Be sure to use sealer on the external plugs. |
| By Dave Shoe - 12/13/2003 11:00:01 PM; IP 216.243.176.34 |
I pulled an old 361FE engine from a long-abandoned 1958 Edsel at the salvageyard a couple years back, and when I removed the tranny, one of the pressed-in oil plugs was popped out of the block and sitting on a rib at the rear of the block. A sad end for a neat car. Pressed-in plugs can work well, but they need to be pressed in properly, sealed, and feel right going in.
Threaded plugs can slightly leak, just like press plugs can, but this is only an issue on the outside surfaces of the engine. I've been surprised at how tenaciously the external pipe plugs can leak if they're not very carefully tapped, sealed, and seated. IT took me a couple builds to finally get them to seal reliably.
I also seem to recall that a shallower than normal type of oil plug usually comes in the engine block plug kits, and they tend to work well in space constrained positions in the block such as at one of the plugs at the front of the lifter passage. It's been awhile since I've installed any oil plugs, so my memory is foggy.
Since your sheet-steel engine plate is likely not drilled at the oil holes, you'll need to drill three clearance holes in it, to prevent it from bending when you tighten the bellhousing against the block.
Be sure you very carefully clean the fresh threads so that no slivers/chips of iron remain to dislodge once the engine is built. Obvious, but an important reminder.
I didn't mention it before, but I've never used a jiggle pin in my builds, and can't say there have been any issues with it's absense. I don't believe they are needed, though I wanted to add that some solid lifter FE blocks apparently used a metered orifice in the front of the block. I'm starting to suspect this was all done in the days before the camshaft retention plate was added to the FE (midyear 1963). While the valves were installed in many later engines, I just don't understand their necessity.
JMO,
Shoe. |
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