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Original Message
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RE: FE hydraulic clutch coversion-help |
By Gerry Proctor - 09/30/2004 9:28:15 AM; IP 207.133.188.254 |
Consider the things that change the leverage.
Mechanically, you can alter the pivot point for the master cylinder pushrod by moving the rod close to the pedal fulcrum. This will change the ratio so that by moving the pushrod up you also decrease the length of the stroke. Meaning that you get less pushrod travel for the same pedal movement.
Hydraulic leverage changes are accomplished through piston bore size. A smaller bore will decrease pedal effort. The results are the same as changing mechanical leverage in that using a smaller bore means you need more piston travel for the same fluid displacement. If you have enough pedal travel you can use a smaller bore in either the master or slave cylinder to lower the pedal effort.
But you just may be screwed on this one. A Long pressure plate has a much higher pedal effort than a similar diaphragm pressure plate...the intended application for a hydraulic actuation system. You'd probably be okay if you were in the stock spring range (1800-2200lbs) but you probably picked one of those beefy performance plates well above the 2200lb load.
As to the hydraulic throwout bearing, you'd have to know what the piston apply area is and compare it to the existing slave cylinder to know if it would make a difference. Same thing as above...smaller apply area means lower pedal effort. Honestly, I think you'd be indulging yourself in a fantasy if you think that would make a difference...or, in other words -throwing money down a rat hole.
My opinion? If you're going to use the factory style clutch(Long) then you'd be better off with the factory-style actuation system that includes the pedal assist spring that is weighted for this style clutch. If you want to use a hydraulic system then you'd be in a much better position by using a diaphragm-style clutch.
Now that you have the bad news, I want to wish you good luck on making this work. |
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