|
|
|
|
Original Message
|
| RE: Machine shop advice for 428 FE rebuild? |
| By scott - 09/04/2000 1:42:16 PM; IP 38.31.114.182 |
gee sounds an afull lot like the 390 an my wagon, i would just take the whole moter to the shop let them tear it down they can inspect it for other problems as they do so. of course i seem to buy motors just to tear them down. the only thing better than rust encrusted fe straining the welds on yur cherry picker is a nice freshly painted rebuild going ready to drop back in. definetly put in the hardened seats on the exhaust valves while the motor is apart. if your existing valves are good i dont believe that they need to be upgraded for unleaded. if you need to bore go for the minimun oversize possable, that way you will have meat left to bore again if need be. most 428 blocks are pretty tough and you may get buy with honing and using your old pistons if the blockis not to far out of round. make sure the machinist has a torque plate to bore your motor. boring is relitively cheap at about 120.00 but you will need to buy new pistons. check with your machinist for piston price and availabilty. as far as cast vs forged pistons as i recall the 428
CJ used a cast piston and leave it at that. my machine shop charges about 150.00 to balance the short block assembly i.e. crank, rods and pistons. one thing to remember is that the 428 is externally balanced so if you have any flexplate damage you need to make sure that your new flexplate is at the shop because it is balanced along with the crank. balacing will help the life of your motor and let run smoother and perhaps rev a little easier, so its worth doing. as for rings anyname brand crome moly ring should be fine. cylinder honing probably has more effect on the intial seating than ring type. Blueprinting is simple deciding on a optimum set of clearances for the engine, setting a degree of tolorance and sticking within those parameters, true blueprinting can be horriblely expensive and is not really needed unless your are planning to actually do a lot of bracket racing or something. if your machinist has good equipt. and properly maintains it he should not have any problems with clearances when its time for assembly. iwould change the cam for 2 reasons 1) putting a used cam and lifters in rebuilt moter is something of a crap shoot at best-if a lobe or lifter goes south on you the metal particles are going to end up in your nice new bearings. buy a cam kit. 2) i
would change the cam to a possably a CJ grind or modern cam profile-cams have evolved a lot in 30 years. dont over cam!!!! anything over 214*@050 is be more than you want in a 7Litre Galaxy. the diehards in my neck of the woods dont seem to think much of the regular edlebrock preformer. one quote " its a pickup truk manifold" ive heard that the preformer rpm is an improvement. personaly i would run a 428 pi manifold over the edlebrock. its aluminium and its the some as the CJ piece. or a cast iron CJ intake it works good from 2000 to 5500 rpm. ford got the CJ package right. the felpro gasket your saw on the tube should be avilable at any auto parts store. the suffix on the part number is R (for rubber as oposed to C for cork} also the felpro high preformance racing catalog list an eccellant "Felcoprene rubber oil pan gasket" that i like. as far as changing the carb. you most likily have a 595 cfm autolite 4100. this card is just about adequete for the stock 428 but if you change manifolds some like a 650 or 750 Would be more in order. while ive heard good things about the edelebrock carbs i would run a holly my self there easy to work on and parts are readily available. a 390 GT carb and a repro fueline would be about right. or 750 set up like the CJ carb with the coresponding pump and line might fill the bill depending on cam chioce. as far as oil pumps i like the mellings 57hv (high volume) although i have heard that if you have tight oil clearances on the crank they can tend to pump the oil into the valve covers. this is something to discuss with your machinist as it may have an effect on the clearances that you shoot for in the lower end. you definetly want to intall oil restricters under the rockerstands-have the machinest tap the hole so you can thread in holly carb jets, you can change jets or drill them out till you are happy with the oil flow to the rocker arms. one last thing if the crank needs turning (most really dont) turn it the minimum undersize. bearings are only availble in .010 and .020 oversizes, it is getting really hard to find a 428 crank that has not been turned .020. good luck on your rebuild. |
|
|
This thread, so far...
|
|
|
|
Post A Response
|
|
|
|
|
|