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Original Message
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| RE: Milodon Oil Pans |
| By Dave Shoe - 01/10/2001 12:39:19 AM; IP 216.243.158.113 |
1) I use the Milodon pan (steel) and like it a lot. I don't run aluminum pans because I would tend to shatter them in rough driving, but they do look cool. The Milodon is baffled and a baffled T-pan, in my opinion, is the NUMERO UNO oiling upgrade for any front-sump performance FE. If you forget all the other upgrades (most are wimpy, anyway) DO GET A GOOD PAN. Not only will the bearings last longer, but that irritating lifter clacking which pops up during hard fast corners goes away, too. There is a REASON why the later 428CJ dipstick was renotched by Ford to indicate "full" at six quarts when other FEs are notched for five - Ford believes that overfilling the stock pan beats replacing a blown motor under warrantee. There is also a reason the CJ got a windage tray, and it has less to do with "windage performance" and more to do with the entire contents of the front sump pan getting tossed into the crankshaft and splattered all over Gods creation (inside the crankcase of course, which is Godlike, in itself) when dragracing. Front sumps suck, but adding a performance pan beats ripping out the stock suspension.
4) Rear pans from pick-ups are better than car pans - got a torch? Rear pans do have problems during hard braking, but you probably don't have the carb wide open when your foot is planted on the brake, so it's a little less damaging. Baffled T-pans buy you time before emptying the sump, front or rear. Ford rear sumps have a long pick-up tube and one oddball maincap bolt for supporting the long tube.
5) Keep the drip rails - they help prevent smoking and valve stem deposits. Not all rocker drip rails are created equal, though Ford tried to make them so. Some drip rails interfere very slightly in the lower corners of FPP pedestals, causing the rails to get lightly pressed against the valve springs. Some trays just happen to miss the pedestals completely. If you don't have a set of the second type in your stash somewhere, there is an easy fix. Notice that, with drip rails removed and FPP pedestals installed on the head, the rectangular FPP pedestals are slightly larger than the round head bosses they perch atop. Simply chamfer an offending corner off the FPP pedestals so they still make full contact with the round head boss - meaning you retain full strength of the pedestals. Now they will clear any drip rail that I've ever seen come from Ford, no matter how worn out the die stamp tooling was. You might want to check with Ron to see what this does to the pedestal warrantee.
6) The "funnel effect" is not good for your motor (sucking air due to frozen oil in pan) - besides, your stock starter doesn't have the torque to crank the motor fast enough to fire when it's busy pumping tar. Use pure synthetic oil (no blends) in the sub-zero, and check the "Pour Point" specs. Note that 20w50, 15w50, and even lighter full-synthetics can have horrible pour points. Winter demands 5w50 Mobil1/Amzoil, or 5w30 Mobil1/Amzoil when really cold (the 5w30 pour point specs look great). I don't like the way the other synthetic manufacturers specs look when things get really cold and I've never used Amzoil. B.T.W: Oil flows poorly when it's within 30 degrees of the specified "pour point".
JMO,
Shoe.
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