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Original Message
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| RE: Looking for 428CJ oil recommendations |
| By Dave Shoe - 04/16/2001 2:20:40 AM; IP 216.243.158.26 |
I keep hearing the same things about synthetics and new engines. I don't really believe it, but I don't have the resources to "research" oil, so I do use conventional oil for the first few thousand miles.
Synthetics are chemically superior and more stable over time and in harsh racing environments, but I don't believe they lubricate better than fresh conventional oil in a daily-driver road rocket that is kept in good running order (not overheated, etc).
I believe (possibly incorrectly) that regular oil, if changed regularly, is all an engine needs, just as long as ambient temperatures are above zero Fahrenheit. Below that, most synthetics just plain flow better, allowing easier cranking, and also providing reliable oil flow in the seconds and minutes just after start-up. Cold conventional oils can easily get too thick, allowing the oil pump pickup to "punch a hole" in the oil and draw air, especially since cold oil will return to the pan much more slowly.
I'm not super-fussy about oils, actually. It's my opinion that most FE oil-related engine failures are related to the oil-pump pickups drawing air because of an insufficient oil pan configuration. High-perf stock-pan FEs are VERY prone to doing this, and you can be sure that several warrantee failures of early CJ motors were related to the 5-quart oil pan capacity.
Early in the 428CJ life, Ford recalibrated the CJ dipstick to read "full" at six quarts. This was a cheap and easy way to keep the oil pump pickup tube bathed in oil a higher percentage of the time. The 428CJ was apparently (my guess) the first stock-pan FE which was fast enough to regularly dump too much oil out of the pan on acceleration.
I mainly use Mobil1 in the winter, but I occasionally run it in the summer, too. My engines don't show signs of oil-related problems since switching to baffled racing oil pans with the trap doors in them. Prior to this I would occasionally hear momentary lifter clacking on hard corners and would generally find unexpected cam and crank bearing wear after just a couple years of hard service.
I think I usually run conventional oils because I find I tend to reach for my wallet faster and don't hesitate changing the oil. I know I tend to procrastinate a little longer between changes with expensive oil.
In the summer I like 10W-40 conventional oil, and 5W-50 or 15W50 Mobil1 for my zippy FEs. In the cold of winter I go with a lighter weight 5W-30 Mobil1, as it has better "pour point" temperature specs than the 5W-50 Mobil1 I used to use.
Just my opinion,
Shoe. |
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