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Original Message
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Slicks. |
By Dave Shoe - 04/16/2001 7:07:23 PM; IP 12.2.11.131 |
I suspect traction is somewhat of an issue right now. Do you have an Equa-Lock (early '68 posi), a Traction Loc (late '68 posi), or an open carrier rear? Traction Loc (Lok?- I always forget) will buy you a bit more bite over an Equa-Lock. Sticky tires will, too. Sticking the battery in the trunk would help a bit (beware of the gas tank location!).
A cheapo B&M shift kit will speed up shifting. The C6 is a comparatively fun tranny to work on, so this might be a worthwhile undertaking. Type F, type FA (new type F and type A spec), or racing fluid all work well because they don't have friction modifiers added.
Stock distributors are good, but I'd also look at ditching your points for a Pertronix conversion kit. You probably don't need much more energy than a stock coil and cap provides, but the solid spark of a solid state ignition sure makes an engine run smooth at high RPM. Having the distributor recurved by a pro is apparently a really good way to make power. I'm still learning about this, though. Your mph number suggests you've either got an electronic ignition or some really fresh points.
I assume you've got C7AE-A or C8AE-H heads. These do NOT port-match well to Hooker headers (have you had any header gasket leaks along the bottom edge?). You may want to look at obrounding the mounting holes in your header flanges upward about 5/16" in order to shift the headers down toward the asphalt, and right in-line with the exhaust ports on the head. Before you do this, you'll wanna mark the header tubes for clearance, so you know where to dimple them when you take the headers out. This should buy you some noticable horsepower.
Lastly, if you pull the heads, throat dress the bowls and drop some cheap CJ valves in there.
I'm not a drag racer - no tracks close by. This is just what I would look at next.
Shoe. |
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