|
|
|
|
Original Message
|
| No filter. |
| By Dave Shoe - 11/24/2001 6:40:54 PM; IP 216.243.158.147 |
A garden hose would be great on a bare block, but an assembled engine is altogether different.
You're gonna have to bite the bullet on one fill of antifreeze, as a garden hose won't likely do much at this point, and unless you can find a substantially sized filter, it's just gonna clog and prevent coolant flow while driving.
Also, keep the heater core disconnected if you want it to flow well in the future. Keep the heater hoses there, but disconnect and plug them both to use them later for flushing.
When you fire it up, be sure to have a fresh mix of antifreeze. Breaking-in the cam and rings properly is more important than worrying about rust in your fresh coolant.
After several hundred miles of critical break-in, I'd park in the driveway and drain the coolant warm and flush with a garden hose while idling the engine using the water pump to agitate things. I'd avoid letting the temp get too high, as that just seems to let the water pump shaft and the radiator rust. Just pump water through using a standard (but sorta bogus) flush connector which usees the (still disconnected and plugged) heater hoses as the hose inlet and drain outlet for the plain water and run until particulate stops flowing out of your coolant.. Rev the engine in neutral occasionally to build water turbulents in the block.
As soon as possible (within several hours), you'll want to reconnect the heater core and install new coolant to prevent the rust which kills water pump seals and punctures radiators. If you see particulate inside the radiator cap, you may also want to remove the radiator and hose it down.
Bad advise from,
Shoe.
|
|
|
This thread, so far...
|
|
|
|
Post A Response
|
|
|
|
|
|