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Original Message
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Nope. |
By Dave Shoe - 12/07/2001 11:29:06 PM; IP 216.243.158.185 |
Basically, I was just spouting the notion that you can get a superior stretch displacement from the 3/8" rodbolt over the 13/32" hybrid which has a shorter stretch beam. Extra stretch assures a more constant clamping force, even if the rodcap relaxes as time goes on.
Also, if you do not use a socket extension on the torque wrench, it seems quite possible that you could stretch the bolt crooked, due to the slop in the hole and the side-thrusts of the torque wrench. An extension would eliminate side loading while torquing.
Note that Ford's trilobe capscrew for the LeMans rod would seem to have this ability to bend when torqued (0.365 shank in a .435" hole) - I wonder if any of these bolts ever broke simply because they were tightened a little off-center (due to not using a socket extension), creating tremendous stresses on the one side of the bolt. Maybe bending them is not possible - I don't know. If I'd engineered the tri-lobe bolt, I'd have built a step under the head to assure the bolt would remain mechanically constrained to the center of the hole. If you torque a 3/8" bolt in a 3/8" hole, there is no way to bend the bolt sideways while tightening, extension or not.
Also, the "comfy" notion that a 3/8" drilled FE conrod is meatier (less drilled-out) makes it easy for most readers to get the gut feel that the 3/8" rod is the way to go.
Looks like I managed to sidestep any hyperventilating this time around.. That's good.
I presently run stock 13/32" rods in my stroker 427, and I believe the ARP 13/32 hybrids are probably superior to these, but I'm not certain and I don't want to experiment on this topic. Future "moderate performance" builds will involve 3/8" rods w/Arp bolts, because I strongly believe these are the best value going.
Shoe. |
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