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Original Message
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I stand by my bad opinion. |
By Dave Shoe - 12/09/2001 6:16:15 PM; IP 12.2.11.131 |
I'm not a know-it-all. I'm just louder than most. Keep in mind I am here to learn - the preaching part is not my first interest.
I think it's well recognized that I tend to spew a slang type of laboratory-grade opinion which may-or-may-not apply to the racing world. I'm hoping, in fact, to be taught otherwise by individuals with experience which I lack.
I don't think I've dissed the 13/32" rod too badly, though, you've got to admit the 3/8" rod has been overlooked for way too many decades. Now that I've learned (just this past week) of a source for the SPS version of the 13/32" bolt (a high-alloy version of the stock PI/CJ bolt), I suspect these may be stronger than 3/8" ARP bolted rod. The stretch will be less on these 13/32" bolts than either size of ARP bolt, but the strength, and ability to clamp at extended revs would appear to be higher too. This gets back to a most basic chicken-and-egg question: Which is stronger, the rod or the bolt - a little finite element modeling might be in order here).
Prior to this week, I only knew of the availability of factory original 13/32" bolts (all used) and the ARP 3/8"-nutted hybrid bolts for the PI/CJ rod. Factory original bolts are becoming worrisome because of fatigue, their age, and the simpler alloy used for high-volume production.
The ARP hybrid bolt remains a design I don't understand. It's got all strength of a 3/8" bolt (which BB Chevy race rods have proven are plenty large), less of the elastic stretch of a 3/8" bolt, and it offers hollow pockets between the bolt's shank and rod's bolt hole that obviously freak me out. All experience available from this forum suggests the ARP hybrid bolt works flawlessly (my very first indications have again been learned just now from persons in this thread).
The SPS bolt is apparently a high-alloy version of the stock 13/32 bolt. I gather it also has the oversized nut which hides the end of the bolt when installed in the rod assembly. If the nut does extend like the stock rod, I'm gonna be the first to say I'm shaving enough off the nut to expose 2-1/2 full turns of thread on the bolt - and I'll keep the shaved side of the nut away from the rodcap. This is just my own form of voo-doo, but I really want to see a bolt stick out past the nut when it is torqued, and I believe this design oversight is why the CJ nut is so famous for working itself loose over time (more of my voo-doo theory - I have no basis for this statement). A short nut won't promote this (just my opinion).
Anyhow, I think you see where I'm coming from. I'm glad that I'm causing others to ponder my theories, because I'm just looking for answers.
Shoe. |
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This thread, so far...
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