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Original Message
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| Although you can mic them....... |
| By kevin - 10/13/2002 10:11:19 AM; IP 209.240.198.60 |
you should really take them in and have it done on the proper rod fixture gauge. Make them clean (Simple Green, or Mean Green, and some scotch brite, gloves, and the kitchen sink when the old lady is gone) deburr the parting lines with great care, and dress the sides with a stone, or fine sand paper. Ford used 20 wt oil on assy for their engines (on the threads). If you have a bolt that is loose, or you knocked it out, that is suspect for roundness after that (but not always). A rod vise is advisable for torquing them up to check them. You can dress the nut faces with a stone, and use a good moly lube at the junction of the nut to cap. Dont get it on the threads. The nuts, when clean and dry, should spin on and off freely without a catch. The Sunnen three point system set up will show it's true out of roundness far better than a hand held mic. It wont be round after running, seldom are. It's a good parallel set of bolts when you can slide the cap on and off without fighting it. You can mic the big end width "cloverleafs" to check for hourglassing. Look in the pin bushing, see the stains from the bushing being worked into the cutting tool marks in the small end housing bore? You are looking for a consistant pattern. Look for the seam of the bushing to make sure it is not starting to split. If you need bushings, straighten the rod first. This will insure no thin spots as you bore it. The Sunnen gauge can check their condition at different depths. I stongly recomend you search out a shop with a Sunnen "Powerstroker", as there is no better machine to be used. If you need them reconned, get the ARP bolts. While honing, they need to be sized right on the low limit (small side) for maximum bearing crush. I did them .0001-.00015 oversize while honing, and then walked away, let them cool off to room temp, checked them later and they were right on. Ask for a #14 stone for the finish. This is the finest stone, and will aid in the bearing shell to housing bore heat transfer the best (FE's are the most needy in this area). All in all, they are a tough piece that will take an awful lot of abuse when prepped right.
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This thread, so far...
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