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Original Message
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| If it were mine, I would replace the lower shells, |
| By kevin - 10/24/2002 2:52:12 PM; IP 209.240.198.63 |
| as that will bring up some of the pressure loss. The old timers used to do it all the time, and I have too, although it is not the best way obviously. If you use .001 or .002 under, you could have trouble, but it has been done. If you use std, you will be OK. The upper shells rarely wear much. You can take a ball mic and confirm this for yourself. The lowers, however take a real "beating". The fact that the oil was never changed as much as it should have been, or operated at the proper temperature is evidenced by the buildup in the crankcase, and elsewhere. You have to have an engine running for about 30 minutes to get all the surface areas, and the full amount of oil up to 220 degrees. This is the only way to boil out the condensation that builds up. Remember, for every gallon of gas you burn, a gallon of water is created in the combustion chamber. The main caps (rods too) suck in when they get pounded from lack of lube, or detonation (which causes a lack of lube). This makes the parting line like a scraper, not allowing the oil to get to the lower shell, making it worse. Smokey Yunick showed this to the folks that supplied most of the bearings to Detroit automakers, DAB (Detroit Alumunum and Brass) company and got them to redesign the making of inserts almost fifty years ago. While replacing just the lowers requres you to drop the crank, destoying the seal it has on the rear (might as well do em all at that point), I would change out the #1, 2, and 4, and reconsisder the rear, and the thrust, if you plan on reusing the crank. While you can do it, it seems pointless if you dont get the thrust to match up perfectly. This can cause an abnormal groove in the thrust surface, which could lead to needing it welded up. If the caps are loose in their registers, good luck, as the game is over. I would take a file, and put even more of a bevel on the parting line (just a hair). Ford called for 20 w 20 oil in the 427 when it came out. By using thick oil, you make it harder for the oil control ring to scrape off the excess, and the engine burns more oil, and loads up the combustion chamber with deposits. It's a viscious circle. A good filter is the Wix. Fram is in trouble when it comes to comparisons, and you might get a few pounds more. A quart of Mobil 1 will help keep the oil wedge from totally disappearing. |
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