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Original Message
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| OK Chris........ |
| By kevin - 10/30/2002 11:05:00 AM; IP 209.240.198.61 |
| you want long?, try searching for the answers that have been given already on this site before. I gave a detailed explanation on how to check all components, the work that is needed, many home "how to's", and procedures to break in a new engine a year or more ago. I have not really used the search feature, so am not sure if its still on here, maybe the host can help. If you have not yet disassembled the engine. there are signs to look for. First, did you have a problem? A compression test would have given you any clue. Looking for trouble spots always helps if you have someone experianced in rebuilding, and especially machining engines available to you. You might be able to get a local racer to help, as they are forced into this quite often. I would suggest going to a stock car track, and find a racer who is near the top of his class. A case of beer, or some other "bribe" would help. Check the core plug holes for cracks. This is a common spot, and they can be repaired, (as can all cracks). Check the side clearance on the rods before taking it apart, as well as the end play in the crank. Measure how much ring ridge there is, and how far down it goes. Check the deck surface for discoloring from combustion or coolant leaks. Does the crank spin freely just turning it by hand?, it should before and after assembly. Make sure that the main caps are a tight fit to the block registers. You should not be able to pull them off without a fight, and have to "snap" them back on with your fist. Try and twist the rods and push them back and forth parallel to the pin on the pistons to see how much play there is. This needs to be checked on a rod fixture anyway, but will give you an idea if one is particularly bad. Insert a feeler gauge below the top ring while holding the ring in as if it were compressed in the cylinder. If you can get a .003-4 in there, its shot. this is as critical as the wall finish for sealing. Mic the ring to make sure it is not too worn to give an accurate reading, (new ones are .078 thick, and as they wear, they wear on the top side and wear off the phosphate coating, and form a ridge). Put a second ring in there, if the top one is worn. The tops of the valve stem tips should all be the same height, if not, then there is a seat wear issue, or a valve that has stretched (not very likely unless you leaned out the engine while running hard). There is lots more, but I could write a book, and thats been done too many times. The shop equipment varies, as do the people and their procedures. I've had new state of the art equipment, and its nice, however the old stuff can get the job done just fine, but is slower, its all up to the machinist, and if he cares about you, and himslf, and reputation. A pressure tester, and a wet mag (a booth with a black light, and a pump with fluid) are the kinds of serious pieces to look for. A Sunnen CV 616, (best) or a CK 10 are what the better shops have if you need to have it bored. A line hone is also a very good idea for any engine. The rod machine of choice is a Sunnen "Powerstroker". Be prepard to replace all of the valve train components, like rockers, shafts, and pushrods. Get a windage tray and heavy duty oil pump drive shaft no matter what. All engines wear out, not in. It just depends on who does it, and how, along with proper assembly and maintenance. I know people that cant ever seem to get a 100,000 miles out of anything, as well as some that get 3-4 times that. The same applied to drivers of fleet trucks I maintained. I also knew plenty of hi-dollar racers that would lose their engine before getting off the trailor, never failed to amaze/amuse me. Good luck, and go slowly upon assembly. Cleanliness is better than godliness, as you cant take the engines name in vain when something goes wrong. |
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