Original Message
RE: Milodon Pans - part 2
By Rusty Johnson - 01/14/2001 3:21:42 PM; IP 63.113.183.188
Mike,
I've run into this a coulple of times when building 427/248 engines. I basically ended up using stock main bolts for the back main. The other option is to grind down the head of the ARP bolts to provide the proper clearance. You are right, you do not want to spring a leak after you get everything in the car. Regarding the cross-bolts, there was a time when the NHRA would not allow guys running 428 stockers to cross bolt the blocks. To get around this, guys would machine the block to allow the cross bolts to be recessed into the block slightly. Then they would grind the bolt heads sligthly to make everything flush. The final thing would be to apply some putty and and some paint and you would never see the cross-bolts. One other quick thing regarding windage trays. I've started using the new Canton Racing Products windage screen for F.E. engines (about $85 and comes with oil pan stud kit). This tray has shown a 5hp gain over stock windage trays on the dyno.
Rusty
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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=4143&Reply=4143><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<a href="#" id="anchor4143" onclick="return false;">Milodon Pans - part 2</a>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike McQuesten, <i>01/10/2001</i></font><script type="text/javascript">
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 Milodon Pans - part 2 -- Mike McQuesten, 01/10/2001
Collapse <b>RE: Milodon Pans - part 2</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Rusty Johnson, <i>01/14/2001</i></font>RE: Milodon Pans - part 2 -- Rusty Johnson, 01/14/2001
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=4191&Reply=4143><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<a href="#" id="anchor4191" onclick="return false;">RE: Milodon Pans - part 2</a>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>BOB HOPKINS, <i>01/15/2001</i></font><script type="text/javascript">
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 RE: Milodon Pans - part 2 -- BOB HOPKINS, 01/15/2001
 RE: Milodon Pans - part 2 -- Rusty Johnson, 01/15/2001
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