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Original Message
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| I don't think you have a C-6 on your hands. |
| By Dave Shoe - 03/04/2001 11:34:59 PM; IP 12.2.11.131 |
The C6 first appeared in 1966, so you probably have the FX, FMX, or whatever the heck they call it. It's an O.K. tranny, but not a great one for heavy abuse. I think it's based on a 2-speed fordomatic which simply has another speed added to it - this makes for a comparatively complicated tranny internally.
Still, if drag slicks aren't in your immediate future, it should work fine.
As for column shifting vs. floor shifting, you are correct in that the shifter bracket is a little different, in that the arm extends in a different position out the tranny. Some folk drill some holes and mount another bracket onto the stock shifter bracket, others cut the old arm off and reweld it in the right location. Others buy the correct bracket. It's rather low-tech stuff, but you do have to be close if you want the PRNDL21 pointer to work accurately across the dial. Ford Service Manuals or tranny repair manuals usually have a drawing of what both brackets look like (in the tranny adjustment section), so you can judge whether it's an easy or tough mod.
I don't really know what to suggest. Heck, I'm not sure whether an FMX actually ever came in an FE Mustang or Fairlane, but it'd likely fit with little trouble. I do know the FMX is way more complicated than my brain can deal with, so I just take 'em apart, steal the mainshaft out of them ('cause it's a cool looking piece), and then I toss the rest of it in the trash. C6s are much more fun to play with.
As for plopping a 1964 engine into a Mustang, be prepared to use oddball motor mounts, as 1964-earlier blocks used only two motor mount bosses, later blocks used four.
Also, be sure the 1964 block has the alternator mounting boss on the front-passenger side of the block, or be prepared for another odd-mod. Lastly, '65-earlier heads can't be drilled for a Mustang exhaust manifold pattern (390 or CJ pattern), so you'll have to run headers (with the raised-runner type of flange) and fight getting the lower four bolt holes in. It can be done, but it's not easy on the fingers and expect to chop-up a couple 7/16" Craftsmen combo wrenches in order to get the last header bolts tightened to the head.
It might be easier and cheaper to swap into the Mustang if you start with a '65-up block and '66-up heads.
SHoe. |
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