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Original Message
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RE: tunnelport engine |
By Dave Shoe - 03/06/2001 7:48:55 PM; IP 12.2.11.131 |
You MUST not run that motor with sodium filled valves. Don't even turn it over by hand. The valves age horribly and are now almost ready to pop their heads off just sitting in the motor with the valve springs pushing against them. One piece SS is a good start.
The Tunnelport has a much higher and narrower powerband than the MR. You can expect to outgun the MR rev-to-rev at about 4500-5000 RPM, but a lot of that has to do with your overall engine setup. If you are looking to "run against" a MR, you'd pick some higher ratio gears in back, because you'll be making power well through 8000RPM, but the MR will likely fall sharply after 7000.
The Tunnelport needs a steel crankshaft if it's gonna operate in it's intended range. Unless you run something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=552648378
you're gonna want to either run a stock steel crank for that 427 block or you can detune the cam and design the engine to run in the range that a cast crank can live. FE cast cranks are good stuff, but Tunnelports need more than "good" to live any amount of time.
I suspect you're gonna want to put more street time than track time into that motor, as it's a visual dazzler and deserves to be out in the public eye. For this a detuned cam and 428 crank make sense. The extra cubes will increase the velocity in those gargantuan runners, and the less-than-NASCAR cam and carb you select will allow the motor to idle and cruise in fine fashion.
Rockershafts will snap almost as fast as the valves, if you use a cam with modern fast-ramp profiles. End supports are a minimum, and Dove offers a great system for your setup.
JMO, Shoe.
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