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Original Message
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| RE: cougar mustang swap... |
| By kevin - 03/20/2001 8:56:11 AM; IP 209.240.220.149 |
| 4 piston setup started in 65, transfer all the parts, its well worth it. The floating caliper set up came on 68-up, was cheaper to make, and is more forgiving to wear and rotor run out. The Kelsey Hayes 4 piston set up will give you much better braking however, you must have the rotors cut by somebody who gives a damn. They must be done on a twin bit machine preferably an AMMCO as I have tried most and find it to be the best. You need to put new bearings and races in it too. Dont let yor local hammer mechanic do it either! They might be ok for normal people , but hey when that idiot in the dump truck pulls out in front of you when you have the quads wide open you will be glad they will haul you down in a hurry. Take the old race and grind down the outside diameter on a stone wheel just slightly. Make sure there is no burrs in the housing,put the new race in the freezer. Heat the rotor and lube it with cam break in moly grease, start the new race and tap it in with a 2 by 4 cut square till flush with top. Then put the old race on top of new one and drive it down till it seats. Use a brass punch and drive the old race out from back side, and you have no distortion or scratches. Now find correct spacers and deburr the radius and make sure the radius fits in the middle of the race (critical) and make sure they use the slowest speed on the final cut. Offer to buy new bits if they dont have any to get the best results. Then take a drill and a roloc pad and give it a nice crosshatch, non directional finish while it is still mounted on the machine, and then take a file and put a champher on the out side edge and inside too. This will help stop cracking. It is worth it to have them blasted in between the vanes and then paint them with Sperex brand hi temp paint # SP 101 and bake in oven first, but it really stinks and is probably toxic too! I had an oven out side just for this purpose so I did not have to smell it. You must set the wheel brg. crush correctly or it will be a waste of time (see shop manual). When done like this I would get less than .001 runout on the rotor when installed. Calipers are another story. Glass blast them and use a tiny bit of silicone on the back side of the (square) o-ring and in the reciever groove. Make sure there is none left over to contaminate the brake fluid. Be careful and dont rip the dust boots, they are tricky to get in. Make sure there are no pits on the pistons or better yet, buy new ones. If I remember the rotors are .910 thick when new and only have a wear limit of .060, better check thickness first. Also use only DOT 5 brake fluid as nothing else stands up to repeated use on the track. Contact Stainless Steel Brake Corp. for any further info. Good luck |
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