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Original Message
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These rods are used in any 390/410/428 FE. |
By Dave Shoe - 08/02/2001 9:46:47 AM; IP 216.243.158.2 |
These rods ar best rumored to be "CJ only" rods, but this is not correct.
All FE/FT "short length" rods since about 1963 or so are basically identical heavy duty forgings. They use the same SAE1041 steel, and are very well made. The CJ/PI rods get drilled using a larger drill bit to fit the larger bolt shank, but that's the only difference.
In the end the "small bolted" rod and "large bolted" rod are even balanced identically at the large end and small end, because the steel in the bolt and steel in the rod rod are basically the same mass.
Since ARP makes excellent bolts for the 3/8" rod, the 390/410/428plain rod is often considered superior the the 13/32" CJ/PI rod. Sure, ARP also makes a 13/32" bolt that fits the CJ/PI rod, but it is a compromise design which uses a 3/8" thread and nut with a 13/32" shank, and the shanked-down bolt logically lacks some of the desirable "bolt stretch" clamping characteristics of the 390 ARP bolt, as well as some of the "shank registration" characteristics, which means if you aren't careful when torquing, you might be able to bend the bolt while torquing. Also, since the rod with the 3/8" drill size has more forged steel remaining, it is sometimes thought to be a stronger rod, when resized with ARP bolts.
Whether C4, C7, or any other year (since about 1963 - I forget exactly) is immaterial. The common heavy-duty FE 390 rod is a great cheap way to go racing. The CJ/PI rod is great, too, but the decision to switch bolts to the ARP is tougher. I run CJ rods in my 427 stroker, but use the stock 13/32" bolts with shortened nuts so the bolt sticks out 2-1/2 threads or so (Ford's use of a nut which extends beyond the bolt is not a good idea - you MUST always use threadlock with the long nut). I've decided to let my hi-tech ARP 13/32" bolts sit on the shelf until I find a set of CJ/PI rods which seem to have bolts which show at least minimal signs of fatigue.
Shoe. |
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