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Original Message
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| RE: What car? What is it's build date? [n/m] |
| By Joe Terrizzi - 11/27/2001 8:29:27 PM; IP 152.163.201.179 |
Bill,
The partial castings(holes) on passenger side of block where used on most later 60s FE engines. These partial cross bolt holes where used to support the engine when being assembled and painted. On an original engine ,unrestored or hot tanked you will see that their was some sort of pad mounted over those holes. When the engine was painted these pads where in place leaveing behind bare spots(Non painted ) in those two areas. Also note that your engine may not have a casting number designating the engine cid. In the late 60s this is common. Ford apparently started Identifying blocks in general catagories. These cats. where ID by color codes which if the engine is unrestored or hot tanked are located behind or near the starter motor area. 428 cj have been documented with yellow or red in that area. Meaning marine design (yellow) or industrial (red). Both of wich can or may have been suitable for car used. I believe yellow was the regular cj and red was the scj. The ultimate in color coded engine design is green meaning race. Most all engine color coded green are of some sort of aloy mix and heat treated or slowed cooling proccess. There is a color code chart in Pat Gahls book on ford performance. Although it specifically states the chart is for the FE 427, Fords engineer dept states the color code is standardized to all FE engine not just the 427. If you would like to see original pics of the two areas I can provide them to you. My engine is still in its original form. Note ford used several different color codes on crank ect. to ID them. High nodular iron crank have orange all over them as well as evidence of brineel hardness testin done on them. Cranks design was also ID by color codes similar to the block codeing. This was used to ID different maching tolerences as they differ depending on use of engine. Race would be looser,than say a street engine. If your engine is still original I highly recomend you go over it with a fine tooth comb before you send it out to be rebuilt. If your serious into original details you will be amazed at what you will find on these engines. I like to use a product called (Marine clean) by por product Non deluted. It will remove 50 years of grime easily. You must rince it quickly tho to stop discolorization of the paint. well good luck. Let me know if you want to see any pics,
Joe
E-Mail , J4D69MUST@AOL.COM |
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