It is a truck 4 speed and I am running 3.73 gears with 33" tiress. Truck weighs about 5600 lbs.

put in a Mikuni dirtbike pilot jet. Another person had thae idea. I think it goes like this.
Drill pilot hole to proper size you would like to run than drill head bout 1/8 to 1/4 deep only with a bit slightly larger than the threads on jet. The brass will tap the hole and conceal itself. Also, if you can enlarge you drain holes to 7/16.

oh yeah .060 for racing and .090 for street. the tubing is .090 id not .90

Aprox,1K it was before I put the car away for the cold season here in NY. It seems it started slight then I pulled the stamped steel valve covers to install a set of the cast aluminum covers and re-visited my valve djustment. I have hydraulic lifters with the adjustable Ford rocker assys which I have had on other FE's I usually adjust them till there is no movement of the pushrod and add 1/4 turn. Someone on this forum suggested that since the lifters have a lot of play 1/4 turn was probably not enough. My jobber had a box of 4 lifters sitting on the shelf so I picked them up and measured the plunger travel which came out to .180. I purchased a set of new clevite rocker assys and a new set of pushrods and got back to some serious wrenching to try and figure out where this noise is comming from. I started by pulling the valve covers and inspecting the top end. No loose rockers or pushrods. I removed the rocker assys and found the #8 Exhaust rocker felt like it was binding. I removed it and found evidece of un-even wear, slight but also some galling in one spot. I installed the new rocker shaft assys and measured with one of the old rockers how many turns would equal 1/2 plunger travel. I found that two full turns of the adjuster = .090 so I adjusted the screw two full turns following the sequence in the 67 shop manual for adjusting 427 solid lifters at three different locations on the balancer. I installed a cut out valve cover and started the engine to observe oil flow at first everything was ok but after a few mins the tick/knock returned. The next day I really hit it hard, I pulled the intake and inspected the lifters.....they looked good.....replaced them since I made the trip. I installed a set of new pushrods, replaced the intake gasket a FELPRO CJ gasket that had failed by the exhaust crossover on both sides. Re-installed the intake and the new rocker shafts and........after a few mins of running the noise is back. The next day I tried a different approach since I turned up no failed parts that stopped the noise and removed the flywheel insp cover and found that the starter I changed when I did the valve covers did not clear the ring gear on the flywheel. Pulled the starter notched the nose to provide clearance, re-install the starter and fire it up. Sounds much better, I wasnt covinced that was it because the noise is not a grinding sound. Anyway gotta sleep sometime so the next morning I take it out for a test drive and still it makes the f333ing noise. I have leaned on a lot of stuff to try and nail this sound and the closest I find and interpet is the rocker arms moving sideways on the shaft. When you hear it, its so severe that I'm stunned I cant nail the source. I know sounds thru an engine can play tricks on ya anybody been here and back Please help!

Well here it goes and whats gonna suck is I wont be able to hear all the "ooohhs "and "ahhhh that hurts" as all you guys read this but I will Imagine them. My only solice thru all this is that I created this problem by racing a wicked 427 black stingray .....spanked him once real good and I dont think he was ready for the bite of "The MadMerc" for the second time he was sure he just took it too easy and tried again. Well you will all be happy to know the only thing missing was the theme from "Rocky" as "Grandmas car with a scoop" tarred and feathered that Vette in front of three of his bowtie buddies. Thats when it started ...lightly at first just like the FE will do when you pound it harder then youre setup will handle and you wait for the lifters to pump back up......only the noise never left......so as far as the phrase "Spending moneey needlessly goes....well.....I'm on the cover this month!...Like there is any extra money after re-building a 428 4 speed XR-7. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and have been messin with Fe's since I got my first Big Block cat in the 11th grade. Which of course means I should have known better. OK lets get busy....Adjust the rockers three or four times...1/2 to 3/4 of a turn on adjustables has ALWAYS worked on my other hydraulic cams but now I'm gonna throw all I have learned out the window cause I'm reading conflicting info on Forums and I dont want to face the fact that I could have screwed up such a nice package by street racing. OK Ok adjusting the valves is no help. I pull the intake and buy replacement lifters and a set of those $26.00 3/8 pushrods off of e-bay. I pull out the 11/32 pushrods and none are bent. I pull all the lifters and no evidence of any damage to any lifter. I did notice where one of the pushrod cups had been hitting a casting imperfection on one of the rockers and one rocker that was binding slightly when rotated past normal travel. Hey could be it, right? SSSurvey SEZ......NNNaaaaa OK OK lets spend more money replace both rocker sshaft assys with new single hole type from Clevite....new, not re-built. Put the intake (F-427) back on and by the way those "hi-PO" FelPro CJ printo-seal intake gaskets had both failed in the area between the exhaust crossover and the nearest intake runner. Well I have found part of the reason for oil consumption! Hey a bonus right. Bolt it all back together runs good for aprox 2-3 mins and the knock is back! OK OK lets stay busy "Can we Fix it? Yes we can!" Those of you with 3 year olds get the reference. Pull the fuel pump off, block off the mout pad, punch a hole in the bottom of a cofffe can, fill the can w/gas put it on a ladder next to the car w a length of fuel line to gravity feed the carb and run the engine. Good plan, good execution of said plan engine still knocks. Re-install fuel pump. I decided to re-visit the items I worked on just before I started to hear the knock. I had a starter goin bad so I figured I would re-place it and use the opportunity to install a heat blanket on the new one since the FPA tri-y headers were giving me hot start problems...soo.....Jack the car and pull the flywheel insp cover. Find that the ring gear has been grinding a groove into the nose casting of the starter ! OK OK pull the starter and modify as required to provide adequate clearance re-install starter w/high hopes that its fixed..SSurvey SEZ NNaaaa! Man this is frustrating not being able to locate the sound. Lets pull the oil pan/windage tray down and have a look. Oh yeah GRITS is on the menu, silver and gold nuggets in the oil pan. Pull down one main bearing cap and one con-rod cap and much too my suprise they are both standard size. Read here about a few guys that have had oil pumps make noise, High Volume Melling pump $36.00 from Summit plus two each oil pan gaskets and of course since I 'm getting stuff from summit may as well get the ARP oil pump drive shaft for $19.00 s while I'm paying shipping. Find a guy with a business named "Storm Crankshaft" in Mt.Vernon and he has a set of STD main and rod bearings in stock.....LETS ROCK! Drive to Mt. Vernon and the guy is super nice and very professional. Knocks $15.00 off the price of the bearings when I tell him my srrid tale. I asked him about the tool the shop manual instructs you to use to replace main bearings with out removing the crank, he grabs a paper bag and starts filling it up with rod bolt covers and the little tool you slide into the crank oiling hole to push the bearing out. Cool so...leave ol Ben Franklin on the counter and head for "Joes Garage" Re-place all the main bearings first and they look fine. Next morning start re-placing rod bearings in numerical order and not finding any signs of a problem start freakin aboout where this noise could be originating.....then just as it should be I find rod #8 and a spun bearing! At this point I'm actually happy cause at least I now know what the sound .......um should be. Its now 2:30 a.m and I wont go down so I install the new oil pump and the oil pan/windage tray and decide to leave the pliug install and re-fire to the next day.......OK OK its..............right...next day.... prime the oil pump which sounds all wrong and never loads up the hand drill but in my rush to find if the noise is gone re-install dist and fire it up. OH geez its WORSE! and no oil pressure! Good Grief....drop the pan again put the oil pump in the drain pan and spin it with the drill......just a gurgling sound and a sputter from the output of the pump. So turns out "Mr.Work till I,m blind" screwed up mounting the oil pump pickup tube and the gasket was displaced....OH man ,,,put it all back together prime the oil pump with the drill this time the drill loads up oil flows and the drill almost smoke checks from driving the pump as it should ......start it up NO KNOCK............whooo hooo! Im sooo happy ....let it run for aprox 15 mins..........and the knock is back ! WWAAAAAAHHHH! so now I'm waiting for .001 and .002 undersized bearings which the guy at Storm Crankshaft is getting for me and I will try that before dropping my Battle Axe and primming the cylinder on my engine hoist so ther you haave it,,,,,,,I hate to fu*&%ng type but I have lurked around here enough and been helped enough that I felt this tale should be told. I pick up the bearings tommorrow and will f

2 things"
1 if you are concerned that the rockers are sliding over I would recomend that you order a rocker arm spacer kit from PAW that
replaces the rocker arm springs. Even if you
are not concerned about that I would still recomend getting that kit anyway. It is only about $40. I bought the kit to install on my
'68 S code 390 GT engine that I am finally able to & am now rebuilding/assembling.

2 When I got my '68 Torino I noticed a knocking noise comming from the front of the engine. I found that a previous owner (I say this because I have no history on the car)
had installed an AC Delco replacement fuel
pump, this is not the issue the issue is that the pump they put in was for a Small Block & thus
the pump arm is shaped different than the FE arm. I replaced it with a new & corect Carter pump from NAPA and the Carter part # is the same as the Carter pump that Ford installed on the motor from the factory. This eliminated a lot of the knocking noises I was getting. The rest of the knocking noise was because the engine was extreamly tired & needed a total rebuild in a very bad way.
Just another thought.. Did you happen to have something drop down the intake that could have found it's way into a cylinder?

PS: Dave where in NY are you from? I am in the Western NY area.

Is the car an original 428 CJ car? Just curious.