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 |  460 CID overheating problem -- Rick, 04/06/2004
Have a 460 in 84 F350 dually. Engine runs normal heat range on Highway at lower speeds but as I go faster, 70-75 it starts to run hotter. never really over heats but the needle starts past halfway on the stock gage and keeps going up.
Has new radiator with AC and 4 speed and no oil cooler.
Any ideas on why heat builds and how to keep temp lower.
TIA,
Rick |
|  | RE: 460 CID overheating problem -- Charlie Pagel, 04/06/2004
hows the engine, been rebuilt lately? Is this a new problem recently developed. Have you checked thermostat? Also timing advance can add to this problem. |
| | | RE: 460 CID overheating problem -- Rick, 04/07/2004
Charlie,
engine is old, I just bought the truck so I don't know if it always did this.
Thermstat is new,, new Holley carb
What do you mean about timing??
the temp rise is alway at a steady 3000 RPM cruising on the highway.
Under a load, accelerating thru the gears, the engine seems to die about 3200 rpm when
either pulling a trailer or just in a hurry.
Thanks,
Ricik |
| | | | Clogged exhaust? -- Dave Shoe, 04/07/2004
Since there is no loss of coolant during the overheating episodes, I'm more interested in learning details of the 3200 power falloff. I suspect the two may be related, with the power fall-off instigating the overheating issue.
Also, you might find a wider base of 460 knowledge at the fomoco.com main forum here:
http://www.fomoco.com/mustang-forum/
Shoe. |
| | | | | RE: Clogged exhaust? -- Rick, 04/07/2004
It really doesn't overheat, it just runs hotter the faster I go.
at 45 mph no problem
from 50 mph to 65 mph is keeps going up.
Rick |
| | | | | | It might be running too cool. -- Dave Shoe, 04/07/2004
The cooling system might not be letting the engine get up to temperature until you consume the extra gasoline necessary to run at freeway speeds.
I wonder whether excessive coolant is bypassing the thermostat, keeping things too cool at city speeds?
I remain most curious about the power loss, not that I have any answers on the topic, as I probably don't.
Shoe. |
| | | | | |  | RE:Shoe -- Rick, 04/07/2004
I don't think that is the problem. How would I check if it is bypassing the radiator?
If when it is hotter on the high way or in town standing in traffic, I cut the AC off, the temp goes right down. I know the 460 makes alot of heat, but the radiator is new and the same size as factory one, have six blade fan with no clutch drive for it.
Hoping someone with this same engine in RV or that pulls trailers might have found a solution
Rick |
 | Any history with CompCams Roller Rockers -- Lucas, 04/05/2004
Contemplating using CompCams roller rockers
in my 428 with new billet shafts and CI stands. Anyone had experience with these. |
 | 1966 autolite carb number? -- blake fensler, 04/05/2004
my friend has a 66 autolite 4100 4v carb(i think)the tag reads (6a f). usually it has a complete ford number(like c5af-a) or something like that. all he read to me was the tag last week and i'm trying to see if it is a 1.08 or a 1.12 ratio. i know it is stamped on the side but i can't get ahold of him lately, so i'm s.o.l. can i tell from the tag about the ratio? |
| 3g alternator conversion -- Charlie Pagel, 04/05/2004
Just finished a 3g alternator conversion on my 67 w/ 428. I used a wire harness out of a 94 f150 and a new 3g alternator for a 1995 stang. Also added a new crane ignition and mag distributor. Got rid of a tun of wires and volt regulator at the same time. Under the hood looks cleaner, my stereo lost the static noise it had in it, and the best part... while running at idel with stereo, elec fuel pump, heater, lights on, and wipers the alt gauge shows 14.5 volts. :)
Only problem, I had to use a washer behind the alternator pulley to use the pulley from my 67 style alternator. |
| | RE: 3g alternator conversion -- Charlie, 05/31/2004
Should be an easy conversion, took me about 2 hours. I like to use new alternators, you never know what you are getting in the junk yard. So ask for a 95 mustang with v8. The pulley will have to be swapped with your current alternator, for this you'll need an impact driver, but auto zone, napa etc... will all do that for you. Before you can put your old pulley on the new alternator you need to space it with a washer to keep it from hitting the case, you need only one washer I believe with a 3/4" hole, can't remember the size for sure. Also you need a slightly longer bolt for the adjuster as the new 3g alternator isn't threaded, I believe that bolt, nut combo is 3/8" by 1", don't forget a lock washer.
Next for the wiring there is only one way to. I tried to make my own, but the alternator wouldn't work. I found out later that the charging wire is a special resistance type wire and if it isn't correct the alternator reads too much voltage and won't charge your car. Best thing to do here is get the ford wiring from Ford for a 94 or 95 ford f150, down side cost is about $80, upside comes in the correct length for early mustangs and is in a nice wrapped up loom with all the right plugs and when installed looks just like it belongs there. The harness should be plentiful in the salvage yards or possibly ebay.
Once the connections are done you will not need your voltage regulator, and your voltage gauge in your dash, voltage warning light if equipped will not work. That kind of sucks, but the payoff is bright non pulsing head lights, even at idle with stereo pushing 2 15" fosgate speakers, mp3 changer, radio, crane ignition, while sitting in the rain with the wipers and heater on. I do have to say this is one of the nicer conversions I've done to date. As a side note my stereo had a lot of back ground noise in it, always blamed it on the high power ignition, now the noise is gone.
I was worried about the washer spacing at first, but since of bounced my tach off the 6k rpm point many a time under hard acceleration and have had no problems.
Hope all works well for you.
Charlie
-----Original |
| 65 stang convert vin -- Don, 04/05/2004
I am looking at buying a 65 mustang convert.
The owner says
"The Vin on the registration reads, BCS5804061185 and The fender tag reads, D9BE-5E212-EZA
CP-8-306"
This doesn't make any sense to me, does anybody have any answers?? The car is in Canada if this makes a difference? |
| Machine exhaust manifolds or not? -- pop428, 04/05/2004
Or just good insurance? I'm at the stage of detailing my 428 Cj and was wondering if the faces of the exhaust manifolds can or should be machined for a clean surface that bolts up to the heads?
Thanks
peter.
9R02R**
WT 7034 Green. |
| | RE: Putting the Devil on the door. -- Gerry Proctor, 04/05/2004
If the flanges weren't leaking before, then leave them be. If you must machine, have them do a slight plain on the head's exhaust surface but leave the manifolds themselves alone. |
| | | The engine hasn't been together for 15yrs + -- pop428, 04/05/2004
this is why I asked, the last thing I need is an exhaust leak on a big block in a mustang,,,: (
Peter. |
| | | | i disagree with Gerry, machine both.... -- hawkrod, 04/06/2004
these engines are not supposed to have gaskets between teh manifold and head. the best way to make it work is a light pass on both heads and manifolds so they are both true and then bolt them up. hawkrod |
| | | | | That's what I was thinking too... -- pop428, 04/06/2004
I knew they didn't have gaskets so I was wondering if it was best to take the top off of both surfaces? I wasn't sure if they can machine the manifolds surface? Now I do.
Thanks Hawkrod
Regards
peter.
9R02R*
WT 7034 Green. |
| | | | | | RE: That's what I was thinking too... -- dan, 04/09/2004
surface both and then block sand head and manifold to reduce the chance of soot marks on the paint or plug wires |
| | | | | | | Not that critical -- Royce, 04/09/2004
I have done this several times. The head was surfaced once on all the ones I have done, manifolds never. No leaks yet. Maybe 7 or 8 Cobra Jets and the same number of 390GT's and 3 427 GT-E's. Just be sure there is no grease, put a light coat of RTV on there and put it together. Actual experience speaking, not theory. I have never used high temp RTV, only buy the Super Black type. Have also used Permatex Form a Gasket #1 when I was out of RTV, it works just as well.
If you still have the opportunity to mill everything and are afraid to take free advice from an old grease monkey then go ahead, it sure won't hurt anything. It will just cost more!
Royce |
| | | | | | | | Royce, If I can get away... -- pop428, 04/10/2004
with not having to give my valuable Manifolds to a machinist, I'm all for that! and pocket the cash as well.... Living in Australia, these are very rare manifolds.......
I'm glad you say that just the heads need surfacing, this is a better option for me. I'd rather just clean up the manifold surface's.
I have no problems taking advice from "OLD Grease monkeys" especially ones that are experienced as yourself..LOL : )
Thanks
peter
9R02R
WT 7034 green.
Thanks!! |
| | | | | | I'm with Royce - check for true, but resurface head, only. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/10/2004
n/m |
| Mustang S Code Torque Boxes -- John C, 04/04/2004
Hey Boys, I have a 1967 Mustang Fastback S Code with the 390 engine. The car does not have a torque box on the left side. Anyone ever heard of only one torque box? |
| | I think you must have an Australian Mustang -- Royce, 04/05/2004
Because there should be only one torque box on the left (below the driver) side. Either that or you have a mild case of dislexia?
The passenger side got a torque box beginning in 1968 model year. Some very late 1967's might have one too.
Royce |
| knock in motor -- mike s, 04/04/2004
Hi guys maybe you can help me out here.Last week i started my car and at about 2000 rpm i start heraring this knock.It came out of nowhere was not there last time i ran the car.I have a 69 mach1 428cj. I thoght it might be a rod bearing but the knock should go away when you pull the plug and take the load off of the piston.And it does not sound like a wrist pin gone bad.Do you think my dampner went out on me.Any help you can give me will be helpful.Thanks mike. |
| What cam to use? -- John Schiller, 04/03/2004
I will be putting a 428 .030 over in a Cobra replica and am looking for a cam.
Have a Blue Thunder 2x4 intake and will use 2 list 9776 450's. Also have a factory 2x4 low riser as an alternative. Using C08E-N heads, 10.2 cast pistons, adjustible rockers, CJ rods with ARP bolts, a wide ratio toploader and 3.31 LSD. No vacuum anything to worry about.
Not looking to bust over 450HP or 6200 rpm. I can live with either a solid or hydraulic cam.
My thought is a Comp 275DEH. Is this any good or is there something else I should consider? |
| | RE: What cam to use? -- giacamo, 04/03/2004
the 275DEH comp cam in a cobra i feal is a great choise i love comp cams all thear stuf works. mach springs and use one pice retainers. |
| Valve Train Question - Long -- Al C, 04/02/2004
A couple of months back I posted a question reguarding a valve problem I had. Work has picked up to where I have some extra play money, so I started tearing into my 390 today. As I took it apart ( top end ), I when't slow, and looked everything over real close. The original problem was lots of ticking on pass side, so I pulled a valve cover, and found one of the intake valve tips wore down to the keeper. I had the heads redone back in '95, and everything was replaced except the intakes, which were reground ( shop said they were ok ). Well, 5 out of 8 adj rockers on the intake side have pretty bad wear on the rocker pads, and the tips of the intake's are concave. The rocker assemblys were rebuilts from PSE, B8? on the stands, 8 hole shafts ( yes the holes are facing down ), and bushed rockers w/oversize adjusters. In looking them over, the thru holes for the bolts in the stands are the same size as the bolts, not much room for oil to pass thru. Not at all like what was on the non adj rockers I took off ( stands had a squarish looking hole for bolt to fit thru ). Is this a problem reguarding oiling the rockers? Also, how long/short should the shoulder be on the long bolt that goes into the oiling hole in the head? The one I measured was just short of an inch for the shoulder before it thinned down to the shank and threaded portion. I'm fixing to pull the heads and have the intakes replaced, and the rest checked over, for a 4WD pu would there be any advantage of going to bigger valves? The heads are C1AE's w/stock size valves on a C3AE-E 390 block, Performer man w/600 Holley, Isky 256/262 cam, duals w/ stock man. Anything I need to really look at while tearing into this thing? Thanks for any help/advice you guys may offer, Al |
| | RE: Valve Train Question - Long -- giacamo, 04/03/2004
the intake valves tips wer problie ground square at the time of the rebild and the hardend tip was ground off. the intake valves maybe should of had lash caps instaled so the tip of the intake valve would not wear out so fast.?the intake rockers wearing out on the pads ? maybe binding from intake valve tips cousing rockers to wear out ? |
| | | RE: Valve Train Question - Long -- Al C, 04/03/2004
Thanks for the reply G. Do you think it might be ok to still run the rockers, if I added lash caps? Or spring for some replacement rockers on the intakes. What do you think about the stands having bolt holes roughly the same size as the bolts, as far as oiling goes? Thanks, Al |
| | | | RE: Valve Train Question - Long -- giacamo, 04/04/2004
if the rockers look good ? i,d reuse them the bolt for oiling on the rockers should be a necked down bolt.that lets oil past it on the lash caps thay probly be ok as long as the valve is not so far down that the cap hits the keepers......... |
| | | | | RE: Valve Train Question - Long -- Al C, 04/04/2004
Hi G, the bolts are necked down, but the hole they go thru in the stands is JUST big enough to let them thru. NOT like the squarish holes in the non adj rocker stands that came off of it years ago. Looked at the rockers, I'll have to replace most of the ones on the intake side. I'm thinking try the lash caps, bigger contact area for the rocker pads ( after replacing intake valves ). Thanks for the come back, Al |
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